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Has anyone used daler rowney inks to shade their models?

If so how did you use them? did you use them with sable brushes?

And before anyone says it, I am aware of Les Bursleys wash recipe.

I am asking about using the inks by themselves or with just some drops of vallejo thinner and matt medium.

EDIT: changed the title to reflect questions about liquitex inks.

I've used shellac inks, which are harder to use because they are not acrylic based. I just used them straight out of the bottle and applied by brush as a wash.

I think you should do better with the Daler Rowney, especially if you are putting them on top of normal acrylic paint. You can experiment with thinning as you go along. The thing to avoid is the ink pooling into droplets.

They look a bit too thick for washes to me.

The inks alone are going to dry very glossy, and be a bit strongly pigmented.
Thats why Les's recipe includes the matte medium. To reduce sheen, boost transparency and dilute the colour.

But yes theyre great.

I just went to my local art store to buy some daler rowney inks,

bought some liquitex inks instead since the color I wanted was not in(black) and wondered if they are comparable to daler rowney.

Yes, I use Liquitex Inks, prefer them actually.
I do usually mix them with mediums to get desired effects though. They're insanely strongly pigmented and could stand to be reduced down a fair bit for making a wash or shade style of paint.

Edit; Their 'Transparent Burnt Umber' is very close to agrax earth shade or devlan mud. Only is a lot stronger in colour. Get the dilution right and you've got a cheap equivalent right there.

the Carbon Black I find is a lot more black than nuln oil is though.

I suggest having a set of inks in whatever colours you want (there's a set of 6 with white, black, red, blue, yellow, burnt umber) that might be a good start.
And having a set of mediums to go with,which I suggest Liquitex for again.
Matt Medium for making shade/wash , Ultra Matt Medium for making base colours, Glazing Medium for making well... Glazes , Gloss medium for making washes with a glossy finish (probably not overly needed for this hobby), Flow aid for thinning , Fluid Retarder / Blending Medium for wet blending.

And if you own an airbrush, Airbrush Medium is incredibly handy although can be handy for brush work too; it reduces the viscosity of the paint without breaking the surface tension completely like water does (acrylic requires a certain amount of binder in the mix in order to set and adhere well)

fun fact; Did you know Liquitex invented acrylic paint, other companies like Daler Rowney, Windsor and Newton etc essentially copied what Liquitex did in the 60's/70's(ish). Don't feel worried about having a Liquitex brand acrylic, your in safe hands there... probably the safest!

I wouldn't recommend shellac inks either tbh; They don't really work well onto non porous surfaces like acrylics do. Not made for the job
Being an avid artist with sizeable collections of acrylics and shellac drawing inks has taught me this. Times where I tried to airbrush Windsor and Newton Drawing inks (shellac based) over acrylic paint, it looked awesome for about 6 months, now the shellac ink is totally gone, there's no trace of the colour left. I can only guess it evaporated? Perhaps sealing it in would work, but they take so long to dry and cure because of the non porous surface. They also bleed into acrylics that haven't cured 100%, and will bleed through countless layers.
Far too much hassle when using an acrylic product that is fully compatible is already available.
For the same effects as shellac inks (which are mega mega transparent) you will need to look towards 'candy' colours,which are essentially dyes suspended in lacquer, much like the shellac inks are, but its what type of lacquer that matters. Candys typically use polyeurethane lacquer, which is acrylic.

I found out at the HH weekender that FW use these inks.

They are very good, though I don't really use them for anything other than painting scenery (they're a by-product of my quest to find a chestnut ink replacement) due to the really strong pigment.

I have red earth, which is amazing for rust. And sepia, which has a ridiculously strong pigment, too strong for an ink without watering it down IMO.

If I remember correctly they mix the ink with water & Lahbian medium and / or varnish - each changes the properties of the liquid & how it goes on.
Apparently the chaps at FW love the medium & think it's the best thing GW have ever produced...

I have been playing around with the liquitex inks using les recipe but after they dry I try to rub them with water to see if they will stay still but they will not.

How do I fix the problem?

Wait for them to cure. Touch dry is not cured.

The adhesion and surface tension of the aryclic and matt medium is killed off by the volume of water being added in les's recipe. Might be worth putting a clear coat over the top too.