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So this is my command Rhino/Razorback for my custom chapter Octoberforce. I bought this last year actually and primered it and then noticed the primer was cracking and peeling off badly, due to my failure to properly clean the release agent off the resin.
So, it was shelved for a long time. Then I got tired of seeing such an expensive model incomplete and gave it a nice, healthy bath in simple green and cleaned it up good and re-primered. This time I utilized the salt weathering technique and actually painted the interior, although I might add some more details inside later on.
Here's a look at the basic Rhino mode:
And here it is in Razorback mode with a twin-linked assault cannon:
And finally with the twin-linked lascannon I scratch built from various bits, plus a dozer blade with bonus storm bolter for extra dakka:
Very good. My only critique would be to add some color variation to the mud on the tracks. Right now it is a uniform grey/green color. Maybe use some washes or pigments to vary it up a little.
Current Armies: Chaos Space Marines(Building), Orks(Completed), Vanilla Marines(Near Completion), Trollbloods(Completed), Axony (Building)
"Nobody ever defended anything successfully, there is only attack and attack and attack some more."
George S. Patton
“Courage isn't having the strength to go on - it is going on when you don't have strength.”
― Napoleon Bonaparte
em_en_oh_pee wrote:Gorgeous work! Seriously beautiful. Weathering and everything is just spot on. Great markings and color work.
Thanks man!
Igloo wrote:Very good. My only critique would be to add some color variation to the mud on the tracks. Right now it is a uniform grey/green color. Maybe use some washes or pigments to vary it up a little.
Definitely a good idea, and I just got some new vallejo pigments to try out!
Barksdale wrote:Assault cannons look too big imho.
Agreed, more like assault auto-cannons
Erik_Morkai wrote:Awesome work, love all the weathering. Really brings the whole piece to life.
Speaking of weathering and mud. A little something I picked during a masterclass. Usually you see this sort of thing from WW II nuts who like their tanks ultra-realistic but here goes.
When putting mud on a tank and if you want to change the shades of the mud in a realistic way you keep the darker mud at the front and lighter mud on top and around the upper back for a Rhino.
Why?
Fresh mud is the darkest. Fresh mud is found splattering constantly on the front and along the tracks, lower parts of the tank.
Light mud is dry mud which is usually found on top dried out by the sun or around the engine compartment dried up by the heat from the engine.
