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Hello, I've recently begin using plastic card for the first time ever and while things are mostly fine I've ran into a problem. I have no idea how to create rivets! As an ork player this is especially important since most of my conversion projects involve sheets of metal bolted onto imperial stuff. Please help

Don't create them. Get some 1/35 resin rivets for armor modeling. I got a pack of like, 300, for under $10.

What kinda rivets

Round heads, you can use micro breads (drill a small indentation and glue em in place)

flat round ones, get the right diameter plasticard rod and cut them out.

Or get your self a dye punch or leather punch and make a boat load of em.

For all your riveting needs;

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/Default.aspx

Wow, i had no idea that many rivets were in existence! thanks

Tichy is a good source for the oversized rivets used on 40K styled stuff.

For rivets that are more in scale, you can also look at Archer decals.

http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

They go from very small (N-Scale model RR) up to pretty big (1/29 scale - 0.86 mm). They are resin on transfer paper - so very fast to apply hundreds of rivets. The rivets are more subtle though than 40K rivets. They are still plenty thick though to show up after a few coats of paint and other finishing.

As a plus, they also have different types of treadplate plate designs, louvers and what not.

To make, rivets here on DakkaDakka, on P&M Tutorials
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/548332.page
and
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/518816.page

We use the grandtline rivets, or rather hex bolts.

http://www.grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20details/augmentables.html


Our experience: the bigger hex bolts are fantastic, pic shown below - the Hex Bolt , code 128. This is because you can drill little holes and place them exactly where you want. They're easy to use and always look great.

For the smaller rivets, this doesn't really work - you might as well buy 0.5mm rod and slice it up, this looks just as good and you will never run out. The smaller hex bolts, for instance, are so small that the rod looks just as good.

To summarise, altho we bought the 15, 128 and 154 botls and rivets, if I did it again I'd simply buy more of the 128 and use the rod for smaller size bolts.

If you look in hardware stores there s a tool with a plier style grip with a (sort of)star shaped, its a hole punch with all different sized punches. I use it on plasticard/styrene sheet and it works well.

If you want to go really hardcore you can buy actual threaded scale nuts and bolts.

http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-hex-bolts-c-1

Expensive but if you want something to look bolted together it is a huge time saver and will look more realistic than anything else (since they are actually nuts and bolts.)

I use them on 1/6 scale motorcycle kits to replace the moulded on nuts and bolts that don't usually look that good. For exaggerated/heroic scale models like 40k the smaller ones would look fine.

They also make regular rivets if you want to be boring:
http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10

Cakie wrote:
If you look in hardware stores there s a tool with a plier style grip with a (sort of)star shaped, its a hole punch with all different sized punches. I use it on plasticard/styrene sheet and it works well.

That's a Leather punch.

Incidentally, what is the best way to apply rivets? I tried studding out a Space Marine once, and I was a little disappointed with A: the failure of my rivets to conform to a curved surface, and B: the amount of glue that ended up where it wasn't supposed to be.

Is there some clever way of sticking them on? Or is it just very carfully?

I thought that maybe tapping some small divots first and then nesting spherical rivets inside them might work. I thought that might help with the curved surface and more precise positioning. I have a bunch of tiny spheres that I salvaged from an old water filter. But I haven't tried it yet.

In that scenario I would get the carbon balls from inside of a domestic water filter cartridge (carefully break it open there's thousands in there!), drill pilot dents in the armour with a pin-vice, then glue the balls in.

You will then have a rounded head which can easily be flattened off with a knife if you so desire.

I picked that up from the FW modelling Masterclass book - a most excellent tome.

Try nail-art rhinestones. I glue them one with super-glue and you can even file them down a bit if needed.

For $1.10 including shipping for 2000 pieces, you can't really go wrong.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000pcs-new-1mm-Nail-Art-12Colors-Decoration-Rhinestones-For-UV-Gel-Acrylic-EY0H-/181259987131?pt=US_Nail_Care&hash=item2a33efe8bb