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I know it probably been asked and i tried doing a quick search and didnt come up with anything. so what is your favorite bonding agent/ glue for plastic, metal, or both? I have been using zap-a-gap for a while and just curious as to what others like

Loctite for the win.

http://m.lowes.com/product?langId=-1&storeId=10702&catalogId=10051&productId=3448640&store=1558&view=detail&nValue=SEARCH

Revell plastic cement for plastic, never had a problem and I don't know of anyone else that has either.

Zap-a-gap super glue gel for everything else. I've had a lot more success with this than I did with non-gel superglues, both branded and generic.

I need to pick up a brush on super glue too, they look handy for things like pinning.

All super glue is the same, the only difference is the applicator (or if it has annoying gel agents in it). As such, buy the cheapest stuff you can in the biggest bulk you can. Anything more, and you're just paying for a brand name.

As far as super glue vs. everything else, don't bother. Plastic "glue" is a complete waste of time and money, while things that adhese more strongly than super glue aren't strictly the best thing either - sometimes you actually WANT your glue to be a little bit brittle, like if you're going to change things later, or if you drop your model and would prefer that things break along joints instead of jagged rips in the middle of plastic pieces.

 Ailaros wrote:
All super glue is the same, the only difference is the applicator (or if it has annoying gel agents in it). As such, buy the cheapest stuff you can in the biggest bulk you can. Anything more, and you're just paying for a brand name.

As far as super glue vs. everything else, don't bother. Plastic "glue" is a complete waste of time and money, while things that adhese more strongly than super glue aren't strictly the best thing either - sometimes you actually WANT your glue to be a little bit brittle, like if you're going to change things later, or if you drop your model and would prefer that things break along joints instead of jagged rips in the middle of plastic pieces.

the dollar store brand i tried dried funny. expanded, whitened and just generally left a mess behind. and the bond was crap. so i dont really agree that all superglue is the same.

 Ailaros wrote:
All super glue is the same, the only difference is the applicator (or if it has annoying gel agents in it). As such, buy the cheapest stuff you can in the biggest bulk you can. Anything more, and you're just paying for a brand name.

As far as super glue vs. everything else, don't bother. Plastic "glue" is a complete waste of time and money, while things that adhese more strongly than super glue aren't strictly the best thing either - sometimes you actually WANT your glue to be a little bit brittle, like if you're going to change things later, or if you drop your model and would prefer that things break along joints instead of jagged rips in the middle of plastic pieces.

Yeah, the stuff I use is just pound-shop superglue which I've used on literally all my models, but It's whatever you prefer to use.

You're in the US, so I'm gonna help you out big time. Go to Walmart, go to the paint section and in there you will find a section for adhesives. You are looking for a black and yellow package that contains 4 tubes of super glue, also black and yellow. This will solve all of your model gluing needs forever. White metal, Finecast, plastic, restic, I've never found better. My metal bloodthirster's wings aren't pinned, they're held by this glue. For 4 years now. Lord of change-same thing. Go nuts. If you find something better, I'd love to see it and I'd be amazed.

A proper plastic glue (I'm a big fan of Revell Contacta Pro) will create a MUCH stronger bond between two plastic pieces than super glue.

This can be good or bad. If you later want to rip the model apart then it's definitely bad (it's essentially impossible).

I also prefer plastic glue when i can esp for being able to adjust arms when they're both holding the same weapon (eg a Space Marine holding a boltgun). I gives you time to move the arms about to find the best pose and precise position of the join to give the best joint between the parts.
I also use the bottled plastic glue that usually comes with a brush attached the pot lid. This is great for vehicles BUT don't use the brush it comes with - instead clip it off & throw away then find an old regular painting brush that you don't use that much any more & use that. The glue doesn't ruin the brush and makes precise application so much easier.


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As for super glue, i use a non-named product from my local model shop. It comes in three varieties - thin, medium & thick. I use the medium as I often lose control of the thin & end up gluing myself to the model. However if you can use it properly it will give you the best results. At the HH weekender I went to this year they pored a bit of glue into an up-turned base then held the 2 parts together & applied the glue with a small strip of paper using capillary action to draw the glue between the 2 pieces.

Testor's Plastic Cement glue, and Elmer's Krazy Glue.

These two items have bonded literally all 7 of my armies.

I use Jet medium, comes in a red labeled bottle. Similar to zap-a-gap. I originally got it because when I had to change LGSs, the new one didn't stock it but the owners recommended Jet instead, claiming it was better anyhow. After using it now for 2 years, I agree it is better than Zap-a-gap. About the same price too, comes in larger bottles as well. I've glued almost 5000pts of my 8000pt guard army without a single complaint.

Depends on the job.

For plastics, Revell's Contacta professional OR the even less viscous liquid poly in a jar.

For metals/resin/hybrids, I use BSI superglue now (local store now gets it in). No accelerator, it doesn't need it. The BSI comes in at the same price as Zap and comes in the same viscosities.