Switch Theme:

Cleaning up roughness on pewter post dremeling...  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Lost Wages, Nevada

So I ground the sword off of the back of the old Interrogator model, mostly because I have always thought it looked stupid on him int he first place but also because my conversion was carrying a sword.

The back is a bit rough, is my best bet at cleaning this up just a bit of greenstuff, or is there something else I can do to smooth it out. It's kinda in a position on the model where I cant use the sander bit on the dremel or even a file to get at it very well without risking damagine other detail.

Cheers folks!


   
Made in gb
Black Templar Servitor Dragging Masonry



Goathland

Try a fibreglass pen or suede brush
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Ottawa, Canada

I usually use fine sand paper (600-800 grit) and a rubber tipped something. I have some rubber paintbrushes for working clay (I use them for green stuff) but a pencil eraser may work too.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Sandpaper. I'll start coarser (220 or so doesn't scratch too deeply, but still cuts relatively quickly) if I still have a decent bit of stock to remove, then step up to finer grits as I near the target shape. LUTNIT's squishy backer is a good idea for areas too narrow for a finger - you need to exert at least some pressure to get the grit to bite and a backing with some give helps the paper conform to curves and exert even pressure. After that, I generally hit everything with steel wool for final smoothing and to knock off any surface oxidation.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Lost Wages, Nevada

Awesome, cheers for the tips folks!

   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: