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For those who use mig powders extensively, what are some specific "essential" or "must have" mig powders you all keep in your arsenal? What are good tones/colors from the mig range that a beginner to pigments MUST have? I'm particularly interested in rust, dirt/mud, and soot colors (like everyone else I guess).

I was thinking about buying a few of the mig pigment sets but I'm afraid I'd be denying myself specific pigments that I may need at the outset. Also, the range of pigments available is quite vast and a bit daunting for someone new to this part of the hobby.

To those who may suggest it (please don't take it the wrong way!!), I don't feel like going through the trouble of grinding up pastel/pigment chalk from art shops, and Forge World's pigments are... because Forge World and I don't want to pay their nose bleeding shipping rates to the US.

Other than that, I think I've done most of my homework, and have some junk models to test stuff out on. I'm planning on using 91% isopropyl alcohol to set the powders in place when done, or use it to apply the powders in a wet mix, since this seems to be quick and effective. Before weathering, I plan to gloss varnish the models with Testors glosscote and when everything is done, seal the models with dullcote.

If there are any products or techniques you insist upon or swear by, please feel free to share!

You can also look at Secret Weapon. They product a line of pigments that are pretty good too.

I second Secret Weapons stuff. I have both and IMHO the SWM stuff beats the MiG hands down. For me it tends to hold onto the models better and the color doesn't shift as much when you put down a matte varnish over it.

That and its less expensive.

Is there any noticeable difference in quality, consistency, or finish? I'm looking at their site now and they are quite affordable. I also like the basic tutorials they have for the different pigment sets. These are no different from your typical weathering powders/pigments, and can still be set with isopropyl alcohol, sealed with varnish, etc., correct?

With the Secret Weapons pigments, do you guys ever find yourself mixing pigment colors together (like you would paint to achieve highlights, etc.) to achieve a desired look? Or are these all very good out of the pot and can be layered over one another to get the effects you're looking for?

You both may have already converted me.

AngularDeath wrote:
Is there any noticeable difference in quality, consistency, or finish? These are no different from your typical weathering powders/pigments, and can still be set with isopropyl alcohol, sealed with varnish, etc., correct?

I believe so. Generally, unless they're marketed with a specific gimmick, like Doc O'Brien's "self-adhesive" powders, any brand of reasonable quality will behave similarly. MiG, FW (I've heard that these are MiG, re-branded, but never saw definitive proof), Secret Weapon, and Vallejo pigments should all be interchangeable, with no real adjustments to technique necessary.

Personally, most of my pigment work is focused on rust, as opposed to dust, which may color my view, somewhat. I don't mix pigments preemptively, like I would paint, instead letting them blend naturally on the model. Net result is the same in the more diffuse areas, but I can also intentionally leave a mottled effect of varying intensity. It feels, to me at least, that mixing pigments with the goal of uniformity is counterproductive - we're generally after realistic effects, when using them, and the variation achieved by using discrete applications of colors that transition naturally on the model seems to better serve that end.

I bought the Forge World weathering powder set when it first came out as it was a surprisingly good value (I believe the price has gone up since then) and use Mig fixative. I have found this to be a good combo.

I know you don't want Forge World - I'm mentioning this because you can see what colors it comes with: grey ash, dark earth, light earth, black soot, dark sand, ad orange rust. Out of those colors I really only use the rust, soot, and I mix the dark and light earth together for use on treads.

If I was being economical I think you really only need the equivalent colors of: orange, soot, and either light or dark brown, and then grow the collection from there as you use them. I don't believe I have ever used either the grey ash or the light sand though.


Also, you mentioned you might use them wet: be careful doing so. I overdid the fixative on one of the first models I used pigment on, and it essentially turned my heavy soot into black paint. I wouldn't say it ruined the model but it was definitely a much worse effect that it looked like before I overdid it. Sometimes less is more.

I don't pre mix them but I do layer them, I find it gives a much better effect. Just like dirt it gives a more natural look.

I would agree, I don't pre mix mine either, I use a flat brush to drop some pigment where I want it, usually a couple of colors over each other and then use some alcohol/thinner to wet it down.

I've always just used pastel chalks scraped with a knife to powder them. Any colour you could want is available and they are a lot easier to find locally than modelling pigments.

Now I never worked with pigments before, but I use Isopropyl alcohol as paint stripping agent. 91% sounds pretty strong to me. Don't be surprised if paint comes of or your highlights say byebye.

If it's standard procedure amongst you pigment users, I withdraw my post and insist on the opposite.

No, it certainly can be an issue (as I found out the hard way...). Rubbing alcohol will strip paint, but it's not like cartoon acid, melting straight through if you so much as spill a drop. Agitation is required to start stripping paint without a long soak, so brushing around an alcohol wash without varnishing first can damage fragile layers. Simply dabbing a bit on (as most of us do), though, won't harm anything - capillary action, not brushing, spreads the alcohol around and it evaporates away before any real damage can take place, even without prior sealing.

So it is common practice, but your observation isn't wrong - the issue is simply already known and easily avoided.

This is my method and haven't had an issue yet.

1. Paint the model all pretty like
2. Seal with gloss coat.
3. Apply oil wash. Make sure to let it dry at least overnight
4. Weathering powders held on with isopropyl alcohol.
5. 2-3 coats of matte varnish
6.??????
7. Profit

Depending on what you're doing, I think you'll find you get better "tooth" for your powders using a mat coat.

Also, take a look at http://www.earthpigments.com/ if you're going to be using a lot of pigments.

And if you're looking to get creative, http://chestofcolors.com/how-to-paint-with-dry-pigments/ is an awesome article by Kathryn Loch on "painting" entire models with dry pigments.

 Rahz wrote:
Depending on what you're doing, I think you'll find you get better "tooth" for your powders using a mat coat.

Also, take a look at http://www.earthpigments.com/ if you're going to be using a lot of pigments.

And if you're looking to get creative, http://chestofcolors.com/how-to-paint-with-dry-pigments/ is an awesome article by Kathryn Loch on "painting" entire models with dry pigments.

Yes, matte is better than gloss if you are going strait to the powders. But a wash first has plenty of tooth to hold them.

I figured the varnish coats and oils would keep the alcohol from eating through to the paint job itself. There were two strengths of isopropyl alcohol available at the drug store, the one I got (91%) and 70-something percent. I figured 91% would dry way quicker and cause less damage (if any were to occur) simply because of the high alcohol content. I decided I'd go with isopropyl alcohol because I got a decent sized bottle for $2. Hairspray sounds scary, and while pigment solution seems nice, the price of it doesn't seem to be worth it especially if it's got similar properties to isopropyl alcohol (please correct me if I'm wrong).

Also, you guys have all turned me away from MiG. I'm now on the fence between Secret Weapon and Forge World (surprise!), simply because they have a small, utilitarian range that will likely meet any of my foreseeable needs.

Honestly, for what it's worth stay away from FW powders. It's not that they don't work well it's that you are throwing money out on a the GW name for now good reason.

Well, I was looking at buying the pigment sets FW offered (not buying jars individually), and with the current exchange rate it came out to roughly $4 USD a jar if you were to buy the sets. Shipping aside, is it that horrible of a deal?

Correction... its now about $4.30 a jar because the dollar managed to get weaker against the pound in the last week or so...

It's an ok deal depending on shipping SWM charges a flat $5 for it

I got the set from SWM and never looked back.

SWM is a great company overall. Quality is there and price is reasonable.

I decided to go with SWM. I just ordered the whole earth and rust pigment sets, as well as exhaust black and metallic iron. Even threw in some shell casings for all of my autocannons. Thank you guys for all your help and advice, especially you darefsky. Looking forward to my order!

Awesome man! Now go grab some isoprobyl alcohol a few medicin cups and some really cheap, really soft brushes and you are ready to rock and roll.

Already thought ahead to that and got some for dirt cheap from blick a while ago


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Noob question that I couldn't find out in a quick google search: how are you supposed to clean the brushes you dedicate to pigments after use since they're powder? Alcohol? Brush soap? Turpentine/enamel paint thinner? Obviously they will be trashed after some time and I'm not looking to keep them in immaculate condition. I've never used powders before.

Sorry if this was a previously asked question here on the forums, at work and need to keep the web browsing to a minimum.

Also, apologies for the double post.

I wash mine in warm water. If you have any brushes where you are using pigment fixer, you may want to clean those in thinner.