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Painting Pre-Painted AT-43 Models - How to???  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





I recently started collecting AT-43 and would like to touch up my models. I want to keep the original paint jobs, but add details or change certain aspects of the way they look. My question is this: what is the best type of paint to use? Model enamel?

I primarily use acrylic but this I know will not work without priming the model first. I think cleaning the model with rubbing alcohol and using enamel paint might do it? Any help would be great.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/12/29 04:42:58


 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Myrtle Creek, OR

If they're anything like heroclix type paint jobs, the paint they already have should give you a decent enough layer to paint directly over. Once you're done, hit the minis with dullcoat and it will help protect the paintjobs.


Thread Slayer 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Yep, since they are painted with flat paints you shouldn't need any primer. Acrylic paints that you use for figures will be fine. I've painted over alot of prepainted figs. Sometimes I prime, sometimes I don't.

As you say, consider washing them if they've been handled alot or are dirty. It's probably not necessary, but dust and finger oils are bad for paint adhesion. I'm not sure, but rubbing alcohol might damage the paint. Try it in an inconspicuous place first.

Lastly, if you want to protect your paint job,-especially one done over paint of unknown origin- a shot of a matte finish like dulcote is a good idea. Heck, a matte varnish is always a good idea for gaming miniatures that are going to be handled.

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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





Thanks to both of you. One last thing, some of the parts on the larger models are simply molded plastic and not painted. Also the bases of the figures are unpainted plastic. Primer first? Or will a shot of dulcote over newly applied paint (acrylic or enamel?) be enough?
   
Made in au
Unstoppable Bloodthirster of Khorne





Melbourne .au

I'd say you want to prime those areas first.

   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





That was my thoughts as well.

Thanks.
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Yep, I'd prime the area first if it's bare plastic. If you want to blend in the color of the plastic on a model with the original paint scheme, dulcote or other matte finishes should have enough tooth to function as an ok primer. Making it easier to blend between the bare plastic (assuming it's close to the color you want) adn the painted section, but without quite as much tooth as a proper primer.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
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My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
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Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Southwestern USA

I have some heroclix that I was considering repainting. Some people recommended stripping the paint off because their paint obscured alot of detail. I have not committed to that level of work yet.

Ive noticed my models have some harsh flash lines, and have considered sanding those off and repainting them. Im glad to see a thread on this topic.

A recovering plastic addict. Now hooked on resin.

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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





West Michigan, deep in Whitebread, USA

I found that on my models there were some that had pretty horrendous mold lines, but the paint was never nearing the detail destroying Heroclix/Mage Knight level of crud. I have converted and repainted several of them with no problem.



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