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I recently got quite a bit of stuff from Forgeworld (not having to pay 15% shipping adds up fast) and need to get some sand paper to smooth out mold lines, surfaces, prep joints for gluing, etc. I've searched the forums and online and have found disparate results. I've found that people use sand paper of literally any grade, varying from 400 to 2000 grit. The models I would be working on are infantry upgrade kits for my Cadians, Leman Russ turret kits, and Chimera upgrades (autocannon, side skirts, etc.). I understand the higher the grit, the finer the sanding. I've used a hobby knife on resin before and find that I am too aggressive with it, and can see where I've used it on a finished/painted model.

So, my core question is: what grit sandpaper do you serious hobbyists use when working with resin? Does the size of your model or its scale affect the choice of grit you use? Do you use different grits of sandpaper when working on different parts of the model, such as prepping joints for gluing, or smoothing out an area?

Basically, I'm a resin/sandpaper noob. If these questions have been already addressed, please direct me in the right direction.

Thanks for your help!

It's not so much a matter of a particular size of model warranting a particular grit as the scale of the task. Coarser grits remove stock faster, but leave a rougher finish. Finer grits leave a smoother finish, but take longer to remove material. The amount of material to be removed determines where I'll start, but since a smooth finish is almost always desired (at least, on visible surfaces), I'll usually end up in the same place.

200 grit is about as coarse as I'll ever go, and even that is rare - most tasks that call for serious stock removal would likely be better tackled with files or a knife/saw, in extreme cases (to be cleaned up with finer abrasives afterward, in either case). At the other end, 1000 grit is about as fine a finish as I'm likely to ever want, unless working with clear plastic parts that will remain unpainted. Generally, I'd stop before that. A near-mirror finish simply isn't necessary - if you can't see/feel scratches in the surface, they're too small to show through paint.

The same holds true for plastic, metal, and resin. Were I to go out and buy a fresh supply of sandpaper for modeling, I'd look for a "[insert superlative] fine" or "finishing" multi-pack - my 220 grit paper is labeled as "very fine," already, to give a sense of the scale. A mix of 400, 600, and 800 would likely cover your bases nicely, but steps that small don't make as much of a difference when you aren't working on visible, reflective surfaces like bare steel or gloss finishes. 200, 500, and 800 would be even better, IMO.

Thanks for the feedback oadie. I did a quick search on Amazon and figured I'd get these assorted sandpaper packs. Varying grits too so I can experiment. Would you say these are OK for starting out?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001449TPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JPGTNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Also, I just realized - are there any tools or blocks that you use with the sandpaper to make it easier to handle when working with the model? Or do you just hold the paper in your hands and go to town?

Sure, those would work. They are missing what I would consider the "sweet spot" for basic finishing - 600-800 grit - but that just means a bit more time spent with 1000 grit and you still end up with a smooth surface.

Another option is a pack of Testors sanding films. Since I'm sure you can find a craft store in Philly that will let you knock off 40% with a coupon, it's an even cheaper (and potentially faster) way to test out a more focused range of grits (the sheets are small, but they'll cut for a while and can be rinsed clean to extend their life). Michaels sells them in the model section and I'm sure A.C. Moore and others would, as well. The thin plastic backing also can take a tighter curve than thick paper, so they're handy in tight spots. The plastic will take a crease, though, so only fold them when necessary. Not sure that I'd keep buying the packs (regular paper is cheaper in bulk, once you know what grits you want), but I'm glad to have picked up one pack to try.

As for tools/backers, use whatever you have handy that suits the task. Often, your finger may actually be the best tool for the job, but wood blocks, toothpicks, round pens/pencils, squishy erasers, etc. can all help you get a nice finish more easily. Unless I'm specifically trying to flatten a face (sandpaper on table, run face over it) or chamfer an edge (use sanding block at uniform angle), I like a bit of give in my backers. Foam-backed manicure emery boards are actually my favorite sanding method for models, but I've been having trouble finding good, fine finishing/polishing ones, lately, and my old quad-grit workhorse has more or less given up the ghost. I've yet to feel the need to make dedicated sanding blocks, rods, or wonky custom shapes, but that's not to say that they aren't useful.