Sure
Step one get IPA, I used 99.9%, But I hear 70% works equally well - at worst it might take a little longer I guess.
Find a tub / container, with a lid can be handy

- I used an icecream tub last time... but I was stripping a Landraider.
Place model inside tub, and fill it with IPA untill the things submerged. Lots of plastic models float because theyre hollow I guess, weigh them down somehow if you can so they arent part out of the IPA.
Get some gloves, I use thick black rubber ones usually as they last, but if the parts are fiddly and you need something different, latex gloves, but wear a few pairs as the spiky bits of models often rip them.
Get the tooth brush - or whatever your favorite paint stripping brush is. I use toothbrushes combined with some cheap stiff bristled paint brushes (theyle get ruined by the IPA so dont splash out)
I've had models come clean in 5 minutes, and I've had models need to soak for a couple hours. it kinda depends on the paints used , thickness of the coatings and all that.
I've had plastic and finecast parts in overnight with zero ill effect. - actually plastics I had a Landraider in it all week. The things fine
Leave it aside to dry, or my preferred approach ; blow it dry with compressed air, perhaps from an airbrush if theres no air blower tool around.
Between Fairy Powerspray and IPA I generally find models get 95% paint removed with ease, often 100%, sometimes theres something you just cant reach to scub, or a bit of primer stains, using old dirty IPA can leave a thin film of all the dissolved colours, but no biggie, rinse in fresh IPA if you need.
This is also an excelent degreasing method going far beyond the usual soapy water to get rid of the mold release.
And it will take that Dettol smell off the models
Oh and the fumes can be quite strong, especially if you do what I did last and pour 1.5 L of IPA onto a Landraider and forget about the lid for 30minutes
Maybe do it outside if your dealing with a larger quantity like that. Defo open the window