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Let me preface this by saying right off the bat, I'm one of those oddballs that base coats in pieces, assembles, then finishes the painting. I just can't get the bolters and recesses when the model is assembled 100%.

So, I've been tempted by the sweetness that is Nurgle to do up a Nurgle army...going for CSM and daemons, mono nurgle theme. I had intended to wait and go with all forgeworld plague marines due to the combination of the plastic kit allowing more weapon options than the GW finecast plasma gun. However over the holiday my not so local game shop had a pack of GW plague marines on sale for $25. So I scooped them to start trying out my colors/ideas. This was my first experience with finecast...and yeah, I'm not a fan. So, anyway, I got them basecoated to a point I'm ok with and went to put them together and holy crap!! I've never seen arms not line up right like this before. Its awful. No I did go back before this post and read GWs preparing finecast directions....I should have lined the parts up beforehand, allowing the hot water melty fix for parts out of alignment. My bad. Now my main question to anyone that's used the FW plague marine kit....is their resin/casting better than finecrap....I mean cast? Do the parts line up a little better? Don't get me wrong, I'm not against prep work and I take full responsibility for not knowing ahead of time what I was getting into, but I'm not really interested in having to melt a bunch of arms into place just to assemble the model! If the forge world plagues are of a higher caliber assembly wise I may just go back to that idea and use them solely in my army.

The FW pack is basically just torsos with heads + shoulder pads which you then mix with GW CSM plastics.
The problem I found is the bellies as they protrude quite a way on some of the torsos so trying to fix the bolters being held by both hands can be tricky & you may need to slice some of the belly off.
I got mine when they first came out so the casting was very good. I have noticed recently that they may have switched material and generally the older a model the worse the casting as the moulds get older although they may replace them periodically.
Another difficult part is clipping the shoulder pads off the carrier sprue - it's very easy to damage the pad rim if you're not very careful. Also some of the pads have little hooks on them which have a thin piece of resin in the loop which you have to slice out. I used a very sharp scalpel, mostly with success.
If you have the cash I recommend bits from this site to make 100% Plague Marines - http://www.spellcrow.com/plague-legions-c-9_37.html. If these had been available when I started my army I would have used them. I have made a small order & was very happy with what I got.

Ok, I've got to say...those guys are pretty sweet. Thanks for the link! It'll take a little saving up, but I think that's the route I'm going to take!

Glad I could help!

that website has some awesome bits! some of the best third party conversion kits i've seen. I know where I'll be looking next time Nurgle takes my fancy.

I think some of the bits are a little overdone, but by and large those are some seriously excellent Plague Marine bits. Thanks for sharing!

OP, Forgeworld resin is different than Finecast. It's stiffer and since all their models are made with resin in mind as the material (unlike the Plague Marines you dealt with, which were formerly a metal kit) they tend to have fewer miscasts. The only problem with the Forgeworld Plague Marines is that the legs and arms don't match the level of corruption as the bodies. You need to do some conversion work to make them match, since the bodies are all infested and corroded and the stock GW legs would be pristine.