Switch Theme:

Making a base look pretty  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Quick-fingered Warlord Moderatus







So, I purchased this base for a diorama I'm making. I believe it's pine.
Now, obviously, I want to do some work on the base itself and make it look sexy, then seal the whole thing before putting on terrain and stuff. What can I do to make it look tanner, or more aged-down?
Also, if someone could point me towards tutorials for this kind of thing, that would be great, instead.

Lord Judicator Valdrakh of the Atun Dynasty (6th Ed: W:3, L:4, D:0)

 H.B.M.C. wrote:
Well GW were mostly responsible for the Berlin Wall, so it's natural for some people to harbour resentment towards them.
 
   
Made in gb
Yellin' Yoof




england

You need to distress the wood slightly, it looks too pristine lol. I would recomend buying bison wax ( its a hard with a to tan it up a wee bit
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Use wood stain to make it dark.

if i remember my high school woodworking...

Sand a lot with progressively finer paper

Stain, sand, stain some more

then polyurethane seal, then sand and seal again.

its been years.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/19 23:26:58


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Speed Drybrushing





TN

Start with a low grit sand paper until you are basically using paper or wet sanding it (wood is porous so don't wet sand), typically start at roughly 100 and go higher till probably around 700 or so and that will be plenty, if you want baby smooth go to 1000 grit and then stain and seal it. BOOM baby butt smooth and ready for a pine car derby. Typically you don't make the base the scenery as it is a picture frame of sorts. You want that thing looking elegent while the combat happens within it as a frame. It makes it look professional. Once you seal it, prime it black, if you are going to use the wood grain then I would use either dark stain such as walnut, maybe go as light as cherry but that would be it.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/20 00:49:48


BB's Trading Emporium - 6 Positive Trades

1850 0 - 0 - 0
Marines 1850 1 - 0 - 0
210 points Trolls 9 - 0 - 3 
   
Made in gb
Hellacious Havoc




Old Trafford, Manchester

Colouring, staining and finishing wood is a whole subject in itself. It is very easy to go wrong here.

Once you start to stain the base you won't be able to go back if it all goes hideously wrong, so I'd suggest getting some scrap pieces of wood in the same material if at all possible and test your chosen stains and varnishes on it, before committing your base to the process.

Of course, if the cost of the base is very little, use that as a test piece. Up to you really.

Let us know how you get on, yes?

"If I advance, follow me. If I retreat, shoot me. If I fall, avenge me. This is my last command to you all. FORWARD!!" 
   
Made in ca
Been Around the Block





Pine is awful for staining.

Paint it black imo.

Get a nice piece of hardwood if you want to stain.

If you are gonna stain it, make sure to talk to someone at the hardware store about what stain will work good with pine.

Its very porous and will look blotchy if you do it incorrectly.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Looks like your standard craft store pine plaque (quite a good one, at that - I generally have to dig through half the rack to find a passable one and even those usually require filling, as well as sanding, to take paint with a smooth finish). It will definitely require sanding to get everything nice and smooth (I can even see some fuzzy edges from rough routing), but know that no matter how smooth it seems, it won't likely take a stain evenly.

The issue is the highly porous wood - the end grain is going to soak up stain like crazy, turning several shades darker than the top and sides. If you want relatively even coloration, you're going to need to hit it with a sealer first. Come stain time, I generally use things like Minwax Polyshades - combination stains and polyurethane varnish, which don't require any further finishing and are relatively forgiving in their application and dry time.

As for the color, remember that stains are translucent. Like inks or even heavily thinned acrylic paint, you can build up the color by applying successive layers. For example, on light pine, one or two thin coats of Rosewood gives a warm (more orange than yellow, and rather subdued) tan. Keep on adding coats and that will slowly shift toward a darker red-brown. Letting it soak into porous wood, however, gives you a rather dark version of the red-brown immediately.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Rabidmofo wrote:
Pine is awful for staining.

Paint it black imo.

Get a nice piece of hardwood if you want to stain.

If you are gonna stain it, make sure to talk to someone at the hardware store about what stain will work good with pine.

Its very porous and will look blotchy if you do it incorrectly.
I second the idea of painting it black.

I used a similar piece of pine to make a base for a Rhino I painted for a competition. I thought about staining it, but I remembered that staining pine is a pain so I sanded it down and painted it black.

Here is how it turned out:
Spoiler:

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





Pine is a pain in the butt to stain accurately.

I used to work in the guitar business and spent too much of my life being bored to death about wood pores, density, ability to take paint, weight, grain etc etc...

I would definitely speak to a local wood worker who might be able to recommend a decent product or even mixture of products, a lot of real craftsmen have their own unique blends and techniques that give them their signature finish.

I have always liked the idea, should I get good enough to risk a diorama that I would buy this style of base, rough it up with a sandpaper and then chuck it in the garden for 6/12 months (preferably over winter) to really age it!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/21 01:41:05


3000 Points - Right Hands of the Emperor, Imperial Fists Successor
1000 Points - Right Hands of the Emperor Elite PDF force
Bolt Action 1500 pts US Army
Bolt Action 1000 pts US Airborne
X Wing - Giant rebel fleet
Halo Fleet Battles - 1000 pt UNSC Force, 1000 pt Covenant Force

======Begin Dakka Geek Code======
DR:80S++G++MB+IPw40k96#+D+A++/areWD-R+T(T)DM+
======End Dakka Geek Code====== 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: