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Made in au



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Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Updated tips and tricks today!



Automatically Appended Next Post:
and the start of the LRC/R

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/12 14:27:39


   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot




PA Unitied States

I use a company called KJ magnets, the standard rare earth are N35, but they have a N50/52 avaliable for heavier duty use.

22 yrs in the hobby
:Eldar: 10K+ pts, 2500 pts
1850 pts
Vampire Counts 4000+ 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Schofield Barracks Hawaii

well i have ordered my magnets and pin vice. Once my GK's get here i'll work on them and send you pics with updates!
Thanks again for the help brother.

Into the fires of battle, unto the anvil of war!

DS:90S++G++MB-I+Pw40k11+D++A+++/fWDR+++T(D)DM+ 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

No worries. Sorry I haven't put the Rhino pics up yet, will try and do that tomorrow...work pressures:(

Key thing with the Razorbacks is to trim the pegs off the support and drill right through. Then push magnets all the way through, so you'll have a left/Right setup rather than a base/attachment.

I didn't drill all the way through, and tried for base/attachment, but you have to get the holes exactly opposite. I didn't so the guns don't sit correctly. It's not disastrous, but noticeable.

Same deal for the LRR/C assault cannon, as it is the same mount. In fact, you can use the mounts interchangeably.

   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Schofield Barracks Hawaii

No rush at all man, Im about to move from hawaii back state side so i'll be superbusy myself for awhile and prolly
wont be able to post too much at once myself. But thanks for the advice. I'll make sure to double tap here before
starting on my vehicles just to make sure i get it right.

Into the fires of battle, unto the anvil of war!

DS:90S++G++MB-I+Pw40k11+D++A+++/fWDR+++T(D)DM+ 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Updated the GA/DA today.

   
Made in us
Myrmidon Officer





NC

I really like the idea of using a "guide" magnet red and blue for polarities.

As an aside, what I personally do is use a sharpie and literally mark the magnet that will be glued. I mark an "X" for 'this side should not be seen' or a dot for 'this side out'.

Additionally, I usually have a Tyranid Arm or Eldar Heavy Weapon on hand so that across my entire army, all polarities are standardized.

With a magnet guide marked "R" or "L", it'd be a much more useful shortcut. I like the idea. I'll order a larger magnet as a guide magnet next time I order online.

Additionally, I use a metal pin and a wooden toothpick to place the magnet into position. The pin is good for placing it into position. The toothpick is a non-ferrous tool for pushing the magnet firmly into place and holding it there. Both are disposable in (or when) the glue floods out.
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Thanks, the guide was something I wish I had thought of earlier!

I find using red for "base" (ie the body/hull) and blue for "attachment" (eg gun/arm) is easier to keep track of - even using red for "left" and blue for "right" confused me.

Nice tip on the toothpick - i use sprue !

   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Schofield Barracks Hawaii

I just magnetized my first GK and OMG. I dont see how you people do this for whole armies. My fat meat fingers were not made to handle such tiny magnets. I wanted to stab my eyes out lol.
I guess i'll get better with practice but jesus that was rough.

Into the fires of battle, unto the anvil of war!

DS:90S++G++MB-I+Pw40k11+D++A+++/fWDR+++T(D)DM+ 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Sorry to hear that! Feel free to update the article with any tips etc...might as well share the pain.

It does get easier once you work out how to hold the arm/gun/sword so you can drill the hole.

Also, when you work out the number of turns of the drill needed to get the rough depth of the magnet, in my case its about 18 gentle turns to embed a 1mm magnet.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
PS, you are using a stick of magnets to push the magnet in, not trying to insert a single magnet?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/22 01:40:06


   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Schofield Barracks Hawaii

MarkCron wrote:
Sorry to hear that! Feel free to update the article with any tips etc...might as well share the pain.

It does get easier once you work out how to hold the arm/gun/sword so you can drill the hole.

Also, when you work out the number of turns of the drill needed to get the rough depth of the magnet, in my case its about 18 gentle turns to embed a 1mm magnet.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
PS, you are using a stick of magnets to push the magnet in, not trying to insert a single magnet?

no i was trying to just use a single magnet. maybe thats why it was so hard lol.

Into the fires of battle, unto the anvil of war!

DS:90S++G++MB-I+Pw40k11+D++A+++/fWDR+++T(D)DM+ 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

 Guilldog wrote:
MarkCron wrote:
Sorry to hear that! Feel free to update the article with any tips etc...might as well share the pain.

It does get easier once you work out how to hold the arm/gun/sword so you can drill the hole.

Also, when you work out the number of turns of the drill needed to get the rough depth of the magnet, in my case its about 18 gentle turns to embed a 1mm magnet.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
PS, you are using a stick of magnets to push the magnet in, not trying to insert a single magnet?

no i was trying to just use a single magnet. maybe thats why it was so hard lol.

Ummmm....I can only congratulate you on achieving that at all.

I've used a couple of methods :

1) Preferred : Attach a stick of magnets to each end of the magnet template. Once the hole is drilled, ensuring the correct colour on the magnet guide is towards the part, simply push the stick into the hole (which should embed the bottom magnet of the stick). using your finger, just slide the stick off the embedded magnet and you're done. (see the pic in the article under the polarity section).
2) Take a single magnet and attach it (the right way up) to a metallic poker (eg bottom of a drill, forceps, metal rod) and use that to push the magnet into the hole. Be very careful with your polarities if you try this - it is usually this method that leaves me wondering how to get the magnet out.

Good luck with the next one!

   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Schofield Barracks Hawaii

MarkCron wrote:
 Guilldog wrote:
MarkCron wrote:
Sorry to hear that! Feel free to update the article with any tips etc...might as well share the pain.

It does get easier once you work out how to hold the arm/gun/sword so you can drill the hole.

Also, when you work out the number of turns of the drill needed to get the rough depth of the magnet, in my case its about 18 gentle turns to embed a 1mm magnet.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
PS, you are using a stick of magnets to push the magnet in, not trying to insert a single magnet?

no i was trying to just use a single magnet. maybe thats why it was so hard lol.

Ummmm....I can only congratulate you on achieving that at all.

I've used a couple of methods :

1) Preferred : Attach a stick of magnets to each end of the magnet template. Once the hole is drilled, ensuring the correct colour on the magnet guide is towards the part, simply push the stick into the hole (which should embed the bottom magnet of the stick). using your finger, just slide the stick off the embedded magnet and you're done. (see the pic in the article under the polarity section).
2) Take a single magnet and attach it (the right way up) to a metallic poker (eg bottom of a drill, forceps, metal rod) and use that to push the magnet into the hole. Be very careful with your polarities if you try this - it is usually this method that leaves me wondering how to get the magnet out.

Good luck with the next one!
Honestly i dont think im going to magnetize anymore of my infantry. I mean i have 70 PAGK and 60 Termi GK;s so i can hard glue them to have enough of whatever i want and have plenty left over im sure. I think i will just save the magnets for my vehicles.

Into the fires of battle, unto the anvil of war!

DS:90S++G++MB-I+Pw40k11+D++A+++/fWDR+++T(D)DM+ 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Yep, that's a lot.

Only thing I'd suggest is magnetise the backpacks on the PAGK special weapons guys and Justicars. That should be fairly straightforward and will allow you to convert between interceptors and GKSS at will.


   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Razor/Rhino up

   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Moustache-twirling Princeps





Gone-to-ground in the craters of Coventry

There's a lot of good stuff in there. Thanks for the article.

I usually use 1.5mm cylinder magnets, 2mm long. They're fairly strong, but also narrow enough to fit into weapons and other small items. Pilot hole with a 1mm bit, and a corrected 1.5mm drill bit for the hole.
For bigger fittings, it's a 3mm cylinder magnet, still 2mm. These go into dev squad torsos, or sponson mounts.

My biggest lesson when building troop models is to always build a reference model first, or use an existing model. Put in the torso magnets, and use it to pick up from. I use the blunt end of a drill bit to pick it off the reference model. It's saved a huge amount of time. Your red/blue solution does the same thing, but I want to be sure, every time.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/27 13:47:53


4000 pts - 4000 pts - Harlies: 1000 pts - 1000 ptsDS:70+S+G++MB+IPw40k86/f+D++A++/cWD64R+T(T)DM+
IG/AM force nearly-finished pieces: http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-38888-41159_Armies%20-%20Imperial%20Guard.html
"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw (probably)
Clubs around Coventry, UK 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Perth, Australia

Thanks!

Using cylinder magnets is interesting, makes a lot of sense for sponsons. Also, I bet they are easier to insert as well.

Do you use a vise to keep the model still when drilling wrists etc? I have enough trouble drilling a 1mm deep hole, let alone a 2mm deep one!

   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Moustache-twirling Princeps





Gone-to-ground in the craters of Coventry

I don't use a desk vice, with the amount of drilling I do, but I only use pin vices so I don't have to push very hard.
A good set of drill bits is essential, though.

4000 pts - 4000 pts - Harlies: 1000 pts - 1000 ptsDS:70+S+G++MB+IPw40k86/f+D++A++/cWD64R+T(T)DM+
IG/AM force nearly-finished pieces: http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-38888-41159_Armies%20-%20Imperial%20Guard.html
"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw (probably)
Clubs around Coventry, UK 
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior






Serbia

I haven't seen it in the article, but you may add this information.


Magnet sizes compared between metric and royal systems.
1mm = 1/32 inch
2mm = 1/16 inch
3mm = 3/32 inch
4mm = 1/8 inch
6mm slightly less than 1/4 inch
7mm slightly more than 1/4 inch

Two step drilling
When drilling the parts, use smaller and same size drill bits as your magnets.
First, drill with the smaller size drill. It will give you more precision on where do you want to drill and once the model is drilled, will give you a pocket for the glue.
Second, drill with the same size drill as the magnet. You will expand already made hole, and you will have better control on how deep you want to drill.

Besides that, this is a nice, in development article. Maybe picture frames, with captions?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/21 19:23:07


6th Skylight Patrol Contingent StarForge P&M blog
Painted = 131 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Thanks for the Post MarkCron. I mostly deal with troop minis. Haven't used them on plastic vehicles (yet). I did Magnetize a metal Dreadnought, but I should have used slightly larger magnets. You have an elegant solution to the polarity issue. Many a time I have had to flip misaligned magnets (reminds me of a tooth extraction). Personally, I use a single "polarity standard" mini and stack the mags up on them. It has magnets on shoulders and neck socket and Torso. This was, of course, the first GK mini I magnetized. I pluck the mags off individually to place on the conversion mini. But this method is tricky at best, esp. when the mags decide to flip at the last possible moment of insertion (sometimes for no apparent reason).

As you know, the GK Terminator squad will give you a memorable lesson on the nuances of magnetization. But like you said, it makes sense economically to magnetize GK Terminator squads that have mucho accessories with swappable magnets. Lately, I have a personal standard of fitting all my squad leaders, having close combat weapons, with shoulder magnets. Mostly for pose-ability ascetics sake than anything else.
[Thumb - DSCI1518.JPG]
WIP of Dreadnought Neo Mags


JD 
   
 
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