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Just bought my first resin model, Belial for the DA.

Do these types of models assemble in the same way as plastic models and can I use the same primers/paints on them as well?

Give it a wash beforehand, just in case some mold release agent is still on it, if it is the primer and paint wont stick,.

Just use normal dish soap and a gentle scrub, I use a toothbrush (A new one I bought for this purpose )

That should be the only difference from plastic for the finecast.

If it was FW resin I'd suggest a dustmask when filing mold lines so you don't breathe in the resin dust.

Well, firstly you have Finecast, which, while technically resin, is like a bizarre compromise over 'normal' resin which has none of the advantages and many of the disadvantage.

Nevertheless, if you're playing GW games, some Finecast models are unavoidable.

You cannot use plastic glue on resin, you'll need to use superglue, otherwise they build pretty much the same with regard to removal of flash, mould lines etc. be very careful with Finecast if filing, as it is very sensitive to it, and too coarse a file will rip the surface up. An emery board is mild enough, or just use the edge of a sharp knife to scrape them off.

Painting wise it is all the same stuff, with one additional step, which is resin casting requires a mould release, a residue of which may be left behind on the model and will stop anything adhering to it. Easily fixed though, just some warm soapy water and a clean with a toothbrush, followed by a thorough rinse and ensure it is completely dry before applying primer.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

erratyk wrote:

If it was FW resin I'd suggest a dustmask when filing mold lines so you don't breathe in the resin dust.

Actually, either advise a dust mask for all resin, or don't. There's no distinction between types of resin. All modelling resins are non toxic once cured, it is the dust that (potentially) poses the problem, whether it is FW resin or GW Finecast is actually irrelevant to the warning, it is if whatever you're doing with it generates any sort of fine particulate.

Personally, I doubt your average hobbyist comes into contact with sufficient quantities of dust in their lifetime to pose a statistically significantly higher risk than someone who doesn't model with resin at all, but YMMV.

In fact, all models are produced in a process that uses mould release unless you are building from scratch using extruded shapes and sheet. Injection moulded items are produced using less mould release than resin as they either don't have undercuts, or use fancy and expensive slide-core tooling. So you may have some problems with primer not sticking even on injection styrene models, but this is very rare.

As to resin dust, azreal13 is quite correct. The advice is generally to wear a mask if sanding or similar to avoid dust getting into your lungs. You can also minimise the problem by ensuring you are sanding or filling with the surface being worked on well wet - or underwater if possible - to prevent the dust getting into the air in the first place.

The amount that is required before you feel the effects is debatable, as is the amount you'll come into contact with over the years, but my view is that you only have one pair of lungs, and particulate filter masks are cheap, so why take the chance?

You are more likely to need a mask when spraying paint to prevent particles of wet paint getting into your lungs and curing there. But that goes no matter what the model you are making is made of.