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Made in us
Slippery Scout Biker




Wisconsin

Got out of 40K in 2010 due to a move across state and lack of funds for the hobby. Now that I have gotten settled into my own place and have some disposable income I decided to get back into 40K because of how much I love the lore and models. So here is the start of my Salamanders army. NOTE: This model has definitely taught me to base BEFORE assembly.



   
Made in gb
Keeper of the Holy Orb of Antioch





avoiding the lorax on Crion

Not bad for first time in years, nice freehand chapter symbol too.

As everything it gets better with practice, only been painting a year n a bit but there's a few light years between lol

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/05 21:19:43


Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.

"May the odds be ever in your favour"

Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.

FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.  
   
Made in us
Savage Khorne Berserker Biker






Welcome back...not bad for being away for so long.

Advice:
Thin your paints. They seem a bit thick.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xqOf-KjdVY
My Hobby Blog:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/594118.page

http://i.imgur.com/yLl7xmu.gif 
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Not too bad. As mentioned, the paint is a little thick but that's easy to fix with the next one, and it could do with a quick wash to shade it. Other than that , well done and welcome back

12000 pts
5000pts 
   
Made in de
Repentia Mistress





Santuary 101

Yep not bad for the long break!

You did 2 colours for highlights after the base coat? I'm a bit lazy so usually I only do that for the HQ. maybe a green glaze can help to blend them in?

DS:70+S+G+M-B--IPw40k94-D+++A++/wWD380R+T(D)DM+

Avatar scene by artist Nicholas Kay. Give credit where it's due! 
   
Made in us
Slippery Scout Biker




Wisconsin

Found a link, here on dakka I think, to a guy's Salamander blog and it actually called for 3 highlights rather than 2 so I thought I was cutting corners actually lol.

Tutorial Here: http://tarvick.com/archives/2064

Considering the price, and lets face it imbalance, of 40K I knew I wanted to be get back in for more than just the tabletop game so I', aiminf have my models be a above tabletop standard. That being said I clearly have a long way to go.

So any tips for getting the right consistency for the paint? Do you guys just throw in a few drops on the your palette or is there a magical formula for x parts water for every y part paint?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/05 23:52:49


 
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

There isnt really a magic formula as such, but most people agree that a consistency similar to milk is the best way to go.

12000 pts
5000pts 
   
Made in de
Repentia Mistress





Santuary 101

I'm not sure if you have differing brands at your area. I use a combination of gw paints and armypainter paints. I fine army painter paints more watery and use it for the colours where I need to blend or have multiple coats. I use gw for their range of in-between colours.

But I'm no expert. Just sharing experience.

DS:70+S+G+M-B--IPw40k94-D+++A++/wWD380R+T(D)DM+

Avatar scene by artist Nicholas Kay. Give credit where it's due! 
   
 
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