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Aerethan Dont worry about posting in necroed threads. this one hasnt died. its more like a zombie. Besides. as a ongoing thread meant to help people with their modelling skills i think its ok to continue to post on this subject. I would love it if you posted some pics of your cold one here that way we have more samples for other people to go on that just my nids.

@oz. works well with anything that has organic texture. Plats and such it does not work well with but it should be a breeze with cloth covered legs like gaurd. I have seen it used with scouts and the results worked out nicely

My friends from my game shop suggest using boiled water. What are your thoughts on that?

OzTeG8ndPwRfl wrote:I'm gona to try this with my guard. Thanks for the idea.

worst. name. ever.

Aerethan wrote:

OzTeG8ndPwRfl wrote:I'm gona to try this with my guard. Thanks for the idea.

worst. name. ever.

Well screw you too random internet person. You dont see me randomly and needlessly insulting people on the interwebz do you? You know why? I have this thing called tact.

It is a name that's not relevant long complicated and childish. So not a good name,

Anyway, I don't trust bending models, just saw and pin and fill the gaps with green stuff. Always gets a better pose and doesn't compromise the modles strength.

Got this at a Michael's for under $12 (%50 off coupon)

Bent a Carnifex tail super fast, really it took longer to get the parts & equipment to the desk than to do the actual work.
It does not pit the plastic.

Blog post about it. http://warfrog.blogspot.com/2011/11/wip-tyranid-swarmlord-pt-25.html

I have tried using just water and it does not heat up above 212 degrees F. this makes it tough to get enough heat. I suppose you could try heating oil and using that to bend the model, though it would be less safe and you would have to really scrub your mini to get the oil off later. Not sure. '

Thanks Unicorn for posting pics of your conversion.

InquisitorVaron wrote:It is a name that's not relevant long complicated and childish. So not a good name,

Anyway, I don't trust bending models, just saw and pin and fill the gaps with green stuff. Always gets a better pose and doesn't compromise the modles strength.

Right, because childish is a word with so much meaning. The words childish and adult are vague at best. They have no definite meaning and can be used in nearly any situation as a put down.

Relevance is also a subjective concept. Relevance is in the eye of the beholder so to speak.

My name is based on a character in a very in depth back story I created for my imperial guard. And that would make it relevant yes?

Please use less sophomoric language in the future. One might consider your short sightedness and word choice childish.

OzTeG8ndPwRfl wrote:

InquisitorVaron wrote:It is a name that's not relevant long complicated and childish. So not a good name,

Anyway, I don't trust bending models, just saw and pin and fill the gaps with green stuff. Always gets a better pose and doesn't compromise the modles strength.

Right, because childish is a word with so much meaning. The words childish and adult are vague at best. They have no definite meaning and can be used in nearly any situation as a put down.

Relevance is also a subjective concept. Relevance is in the eye of the beholder so to speak.

My name is based on a character in a very in depth back story I created for my imperial guard. And that would make it relevant yes?

Please use less sophomoric language in the future. One might consider your short sightedness and word choice childish.

If you are just going to fight about words with words and not post anything relevant to the thread, go fight elsewhere. I would like to actually learn other aspects of bending beyond sand, salt and a mini blow dryer, and I dont want this thread to get mucked up with dumb posts.

Battle_Brother_Bruening wrote:

OzTeG8ndPwRfl wrote:

InquisitorVaron wrote:It is a name that's not relevant long complicated and childish. So not a good name,

Anyway, I don't trust bending models, just saw and pin and fill the gaps with green stuff. Always gets a better pose and doesn't compromise the modles strength.

Right, because childish is a word with so much meaning. The words childish and adult are vague at best. They have no definite meaning and can be used in nearly any situation as a put down.

Relevance is also a subjective concept. Relevance is in the eye of the beholder so to speak.

My name is based on a character in a very in depth back story I created for my imperial guard. And that would make it relevant yes?

Please use less sophomoric language in the future. One might consider your short sightedness and word choice childish.

If you are just going to fight about words with words and not post anything relevant to the thread, go fight elsewhere. I would like to actually learn other aspects of bending beyond sand, salt and a mini blow dryer, and I dont want this thread to get mucked up with dumb posts.

I agree entirely and was simply trying to do the same before these two started a whose more grown up fight on the internet. I just want to learn about new techniques in art. so can we please get back on topic?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

sennacherib wrote:I have tried using just water and it does not heat up above 212 degrees F. this makes it tough to get enough heat. I suppose you could try heating oil and using that to bend the model, though it would be less safe and you would have to really scrub your mini to get the oil off later. Not sure. '

Thanks Unicorn for posting pics of your conversion.

Oh so water doesn't get hot enough? Ok. Yea using oil seems like a recepe for disaster.

sennacherib wrote:I have tried using just water and it does not heat up above 212 degrees F. this makes it tough to get enough heat. I suppose you could try heating oil and using that to bend the model, though it would be less safe and you would have to really scrub your mini to get the oil off later. Not sure. '

Thanks Unicorn for posting pics of your conversion.

Well..... technically you can get water above 212 F (100 C for you metric folks) it just turns to steam technically it is still water.

Makes me think of waving a stick through smoke.... nothin' happens.

For Oil:
DO NOT USE COOKING OIL. It is made to be cooked not heated and can burn easily right on the stove.

Motor oil however is very good with heat considering it has to undergo engine heat due from combustion.

And last year, we used, in a Materials lab class, some kind of heavy oil to heat metal to a certain temperature to test with Charpy- V testing, IIRC.

To get oil off the model use soap and water.

Yea I didn't think water would work well, but the guys at my shop keep saying they do it. Oh well I'll try this and see what happense. Thanks for the advice.

OzTeG8ndPwRfl wrote:Yea I didn't think water would work well, but the guys at my shop keep saying they do it. Oh well I'll try this and see what happense. Thanks for the advice.

Really you don't need water to get to boiling to apply enough heat to bend plastic. I know my kitchen sink can just about give me first degree burns from being so hot...and that is more than enough to bend models.

Thanks for enlightening me with your pitiful array of words, your post is rather reminiscent of Faecal matter. But I'm not one for a scatalogical post.

This technique has possible flaws, what theunicorn has suggested seems like a safe bet and must try. It's like the good O'l lighter but with more control. A friend of mine uses hair straighteners, gives you the control for a good bend and with the ability to set the temperature It seems like a safe bet so you don't just make molten slag. Obviously this depends on how money flows for you since a decent pair costs a fair buck and one false move could ruin them.

Trial and error, one thing I would worry about is the fumes. A ventilated area being a must have.

InquisitorVaron wrote:Thanks for enlightening me with your pitiful array of words, your post is rather reminiscent of Faecal matter. But I'm not one for a scatalogical post.

This technique has possible flaws, what theunicorn has suggested seems like a safe bet and must try. It's like the good O'l lighter but with more control. A friend of mine uses hair straighteners, gives you the control for a good bend and with the ability to set the temperature It seems like a safe bet so you don't just make molten slag. Obviously this depends on how money flows for you since a decent pair costs a fair buck and one false move could ruin them.

Trial and error, one thing I would worry about is the fumes. A ventilated area being a must have.

Hurray more internet dick measuring... Or maybe I'm feeding the troll oh well.

It's silly that you've reacted in the way you have, It's not trolling it's a stated Opinion, I don't like your name. It has no flow and to the Average observer it has no context to the WH40K Universe.

I've kept within the discussion with posting my views on the matter aswell as my stated opinion. Have you seen people complaining about my post? I've pertained to the thread and haven't gone of on a tangent until now. I do feel I have to defend my perspective from cheap retorts and rhetorics. If I'm going to be felled in an disagreement It will take more than a slandering remark.

Now pertaining to the thread as I previously stated I think theunicorns method provides the precision needed, something with a thermostat to change the Temperature for a cleaner bend would be ideal. I keep thinking about a soldering iron, you can control the position of the bend with ease due to the rounded shape and pointed tip and change the temperature to get the level that suits plastic best.

I would not have thought of using a hair straitener. Does it leave imprints in the models?

I am still very worried about fingerprints and marks from the bending.

OzTeG8ndPwRfl wrote:I would not have thought of using a hair straitener. Does it leave imprints in the models?

I am still very worried about fingerprints and marks from the bending.

It depends on the heat you ramp it up to. If done carefully you shouldn't melt the plastic but just make it hot enough for you to bend. If your leaving fingerprints it's to hot because you've effectively melted the plastic. It's like finecast, you get that bend if done right.

It's all about finding the temperature for the plastic. It varies depending on thickness also. I wouldn't dare try this on a Carnifex tail or other thick object, I would much prefer the slower method of cutting segments pinning and filling in the gaps with GS.

With the small heat gun I used its very easy to adjust the temp by moving the model either closer or farther from the heat source. I was aiming the heat at the middle of the tail, so the tip and torso stayed room temp, making it very easy to hold and bend without harm to me or the model. I set off a smoke alarm, but it was the first time using the gun and I was directly underneath the alarm. It smelled bad when turning on, just like an electric heat that has set dormant over a summer being turned on at winter.

I was a little nervous as this was my first attempt, but this was so simple. No clean up, no molten salt, less chance of serious burns to me.

The gun was sold near custom basket making supplies, marketed to seal shrink wrap on fruit/goody gift baskets. In the box it suggested using it to dry paint ( I kid you not)