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Made in us
Quick-fingered Warlord Moderatus





Lost in the Warp

So... I'm now living in an apartment and any sort of spray-painting has essentially become something of a pain in the arse, a mess, and potential health hazard. As I'm starting to move into airbrushing, I noticed that Vallejo and Badger produce primer paint for airbrushing. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that spray primers are still better because of superior binding to plastic. For anyone who has used these before, how do airbrushed primers hold up to spray primers? Are they a viable replacement, or do I still have to stick with spray primers?

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Made in au
Oberstleutnant






Perth, West Australia

I haven't used the new Badger Stynlrez primer, I've seen a review for it that looked promising. It comes out pretty thick, but not too thick and binds well supposedly. I have and use Vallejo Polyurethane white, grey and black primers, they're all great. They're much cheaper compared to spray primers, you have better control so can always apply thin coats, they spray easily, they aren't reactive to weather and mixing and matching is nice - I'll mix black into the grey to get a darker grey for example. The one problem is that it has a longer curing time, you should leave it for 24 hours for a solid bond.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I've been using the Vallejo primers, they seem to work well. They definitely don't stick as well as the acrylic spray primers I was using previously though, but they're a lot cheaper, offer better control and not temperamental to weather (which admittedly isn't a huge problem here in Melbourne anyway).

I'm not sure why they don't stick as well as the spray primers though, maybe the spray primers have more solvents that etch the surface as they are applied.
   
Made in ca
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





Nova Scotia

I've been having excellent results with Vallejo primers. Haven't really done a major durability test compared to the spray cans however. Although I haven't had any paint wear off as I was painting and holding miniatures in awkward positions. Cheaper, better control, able to prime in the winter (of which we experience significant ones), and easy to clean too. Huge plus. I recommend.
   
Made in se
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





Skovde, Sweden

I am having trouble getting the primer off when I want to restart a mini (Vallejo that is)

Someone should do a durability test, how would one go about it? A glass jar, a primed mini and some sand and just give it a sett number of shakes?

// Andreas

Dark Angels 4th Company (3,830pts) 950pts fully painted

 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Perfectly viable. I'm quite fond of my Vallejo PU primer - been using the (very light) grey for a while, now. As mentioned, it does have a longer cure time than most aerosol enamels, but bonds strongly if given a proper chance to do so. I think it's well worth the tradeoff - with proper planning, I imagine that holds true even for painters on a much tighter time table than mine (I don't really have one, at all). It also plays nicely with otherwise troublesome materials like the soft PVC of Reaper's Bones line, which reacts with many sprays to prevent proper curing.

@granander: Not the most scientifically rigorous method, but it'd be worth a shot. Being that the only other tests I've seen have been the "fingernail test" (scratch at it a bit) and simple "did it come off during normal use" observations, even anecdotal evidence gained using another method would have value.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in se
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





Skovde, Sweden

Hehe, now you got me going... dangit...

So would it be more scientific if I got one of these and did a side by side comparison on some different primers (and perhaps varnishes)

I am thinking that this would get more consistent results in a given time frame.

// Andreas

Dark Angels 4th Company (3,830pts) 950pts fully painted

 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Don't know about scientific, but it would be more useful, certainly! I was talking more about reducing variables so you can safely draw conclusions from the results. Sticking two identical miniatures and some sand together in something like a rock tumbler, for example, removes the potential for your shaking having been more vigorous, the sand grains being sharper, etc. on one than the other.

The initial comment was mostly in jest, as we don't need particularly detailed data and this isn't a terribly complex process. Sticking two (or more) minis and some vaguely pointy crap in a coffee can and rolling it back and forth with your foot for a while would do just fine. Hey, that's not a bad idea...

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in se
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





Skovde, Sweden

Now you tell me!

I will try to keep from buying one until the urge passes...

// Andreas

Dark Angels 4th Company (3,830pts) 950pts fully painted

 
   
Made in us
Quick-fingered Warlord Moderatus





Lost in the Warp

Well, let me know if you guys do that test.

In the mean time, I think the benefit of using airbrush primers is outweighing the potential downsides of it and the cost of using aerosol primers. Good to know, in any case!

Click here for my Swap Shop post - I'm buying stuff!
DR:90-S++G++M+B++I+Pw40kPbfg99#+D++A++/eWDR++T(T)DM+
Black Legion/Iron Warriors/Night Lords Inquisitorial Friends & Co. (Inq, GK, Elysians, Assassins) Elysian Droptroops, soon-to-add Armored Battlegroup Adeptus Mechanicus Forge World Lucius

 
   
 
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