Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I've been stuck trying to work on scenery as I can't decide which material would be best to base my terrain on. I've made various pieces of scenery in the past but always been let down by the bases.
I'd like it all to be uniform, so until I work this out no terrain is gaining any progress. I've been meaning to research and inquire about this for quite some time

What do people use and prefer?
I personally am looking for something slim and sturdy. Something that you could base a building on, or could be the general base for a few pieces of scatter terrain. I want to try and avoid having a big height difference between my table top and the base of a piece of scenery.

Any advice would be appreciated but I'm in the UK, so any comparative links would also be appreciated.
Thanks

Various options:

2mm high impact polystyrene sheet is fairly rigid. It is a bit hard to cut in curvy shapes. Lots of online suppliers... just do a google.

I have used hardboard but it can warp due to damp, etc. You can buy it from DIY stores.

3.6mm plywood, also from DIY stores if probably more resistant to warping.

You can cut hardboard and plywood pretty easily with a power jigsaw. Some saws even do a 45 degree angled cut, allowing you to bevel the edges, which can look nice for hills and woods and so on. If you use a hand saw it takes longer to get round.

1/8" (3mm) MDF, for me. Not quite as stiff as the equivalent thickness of good plywood, but significantly cheaper, more uniform, and still pretty resilient. Warping issues can largely be circumvented with good sealing of the edges (to combat ambient moisture, as well as helping prevent delamination from abuse) and clamping the base down or changing adhesives during construction (PVA shrinks as it dries, curling the board edges upward).

It cuts pretty easily with any number of tools (wouldn't recommend using a knife, but even that can work), but a jig/scroll/coping saw simplifies making complex shapes. I generally chamfer the edges, too - a bastard file chews right through the stuff and a half-round can handle most terrain base shapes, so it doesn't take long. A coarse sanding drum on a rotary tool works, too. Even left square, the height is low enough that only the most precariously balanced of models would ever have trouble straddling the rise.

If the terrain itself is plastic, I'd use 2mm plasticard - that simplifies glue issues.

I use 3.2mm MDF from an art and craft shop (Fred Aldous), because it's the same thickness as the standard GW figure bases. But, I have the tools to work this.

All materials being equal, it depends on the tools you have to cut it. That might be your limiting factor.

Lately I've come to like useing hardboard (Masonite.) It won't like getting too wet, but I've yet to have troubles with just paint and glues. I've also used foamcore and mattboard, but you could run into durability issues there (still have 15 year old Mordheim terrain on both that's still in pretty good shape though.) I'm getting ready to base some 6mm fantasy terrain and am going to try plasticard. My 2 cents

3mm mdf here.

I chamfer the edges like oadie does. My tools are a powered (mouse) detail sander, jigsaw and files. 3mm CAN be cut with a stanley knife - but it takes about 6-8 passes and you are likely to cut yourself with follow through if you aren't careful.

Thank you for all the responses so far

 Kilkrazy wrote:
2mm high impact polystyrene sheet is fairly rigid.

I tried Googling this, not sure I got the right results as I don't already know what I am looking for... Is this Perspex, or a similar plastic sheet?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 oadie wrote:
1/8" (3mm) MDF, for me. ~ Warping issues can largely be circumvented with good sealing of the edges (to combat ambient moisture, as well as helping prevent delamination from abuse) and clamping the base down or changing adhesives during construction (PVA shrinks as it dries, curling the board edges upward).

3mm MDF seems quite popular.
What would you seal it with, a slightly watered down PVA?

I'm not sure what you meant about clamping the base down. At what stage would I do this, while sealing the edges?
And the changing adhesives, do you mean only use PVA to seal, and use a different adhesive to build the scenery / glue the scenery to the base?

Thanks for the info so far


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Clang wrote:
If the terrain itself is plastic, I'd use 2mm plasticard - that simplifies glue issues.

Plasticard was my first thought, but I figured it would be expensive and might not be sturdy enough for larger pieces of terrain.
I think I'll probably make Plasticard my default basing material for scatter terrain though


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Chrissy_J wrote:
I use 3.2mm MDF ~ because it's the same thickness as the standard GW figure bases. But, I have the tools to work this.

All materials being equal, it depends on the tools you have to cut it. That might be your limiting factor.

That is a very good point. My power tools are the first cheap multi-set I ever bought, and I keep thinking I should upgrade them, I've just not really had the need.
I have a fine chisel set.

Good tip about the 3,2mm being the same size as a GW base too


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Plywood_Slayer wrote:
Lately I've come to like useing hardboard (Masonite.)

I had this recommended to me recently, that's the same stuff you get on the back of poster frames right? Possibly also the backs of speakers or old Tv's?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 chromedog wrote:
3mm mdf here.

I chamfer the edges like oadie does. My tools are a powered (mouse) detail sander, jigsaw and files. 3mm CAN be cut with a stanley knife - but it takes about 6-8 passes and you are likely to cut yourself with follow through if you aren't careful.

Thanks for the tool tips.

I definitely wouldn't want to attempt stanley'n all the edges. Not uniform enough for me and my hands fatigue quick so I try to avoid lots of sustained gripping :(

The MDF is the way to go for me, no problems.

The looking out for water / humidity warpage is no joke.
Easy thing is to remember to paint / clear coat all sides of the board so there is no way moisture can get at it.
So finish up those projects quickly or at least prime.

As many have eluded too plastic is a good bet, or plasticard. You can get cheap Perspex from most DIY stores.

What would people suggest priming MDF with?

Preferably something cheap - I've seen expensive primers and would want to avoid them.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
(I'm thinking MDF buildings, as well as MDF terrain baseing.)

I based my Imperial Sector on plastic card and regret it now. The plastic curled/warped very strangely and is a pain to keep models on now.

I based some other terrain with MDF and sanded down the edges with my dremel. These have held up much better.

I primed with simple automotive primer, just remember to prime BOTH sides or it may warp as well.

 Gunzhard wrote:
I based my Imperial Sector on plastic card and regret it now. The plastic curled/warped very strangely and is a pain to keep models on now.

I based some other terrain with MDF and sanded down the edges with my dremel. These have held up much better.

I primed with simple automotive primer, just remember to prime BOTH sides or it may warp as well.

sorry but I am a noob, whats MDF?

Medium Density Fiberboard. Sometimes people say Masonite is the same thing, and it's close. Masonite is a brand name for hardboard which is compressed wood fiber held together by heat and pressure.

MDF is the same thing but held together with heat pressure and resin.

I have had pretty good luck with VCT flooring tiles nice and thin (~2.5mm), sturdy, will not really warp if wet, not terribly hard to cut. comes in lots of colors, dirt cheap (.63 sq ft).

Here is an image showing a crater I made out of a VCT tile. the base is VCT as well as the pieces that make up the crater ring.



They should be pretty easy to find at any DIY type store.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Vinyl-Flooring-Resilient-Flooring-VCT-Tile/N-5yc1vZbzk0

3mm MDF for me, too. You'll need electric tools to work with it, but just borrow one from someone, get yourself a big sheet, and cut it into all the shapes your heart desires.

I then use a Dremel to bevel the edges.

I've never had an issue with it warping after painting, but I guess that really depends on how big (or small) a piece you are using.

For really small terrain pieces, like objectives, I use plasticard (get it cheap at a store like Walmart or Dollar General in the states by getting For Sale signs. They even come in different thicknesses for super cheap compared to getting it at hobby shop). Plywood is too heavy for our purposes.

Make sure to wear a mask and goggles when cutting MDF. It has formaldehyde in it and you don't want that in your eyse or your lungs.

Anymore tips on what to prime MDF with, and how to stop it warping?

I read one instructional where they clamped it down and primed around the clamped areas and went back to it later do the other side, then once dry did it all again after changing the clamps positions to prime those areas next ~ but it seemed quite extensive and they didn't really say what they primed it with :(

I use aerosol spray primers, just remember to spray both sides so it doesn't warp.

I'm very restricted in using sprays (no outside area) and I don't have an airbrush either.

Does anyone have any good suggestions that are not spray based?

I picked up some laminate flooring yesterday to see if it would do any good for basing, but still needs to work out how to prime MDF o.O

Thinned PVA glue, or standard acrylic house paint primer, are good for priming wood type products. Slap it on with a house paint brush. You can get a set of three cheap paint brushes -- 1/2 inch, 1 inch, 2 inch, from Homebase or Robert Dyas for about £5.

When using MDF or thick cardboard, I like to put a 1/2" lip of thin cereal box cardboard/whatnot around the thing. Gives you a nice thin edge.

If the stuff tends to warp when wet, pretty much only way to prevent this is to fix the edges to the table, either with tape or with clamps. If you leave some extra lip, it helps with attaching it, and you can always cut it down after finishing. Spray primers are good, as you can build thin coats without getting a lot of moisture on the material.

For priming larger pieces with a brush, I got a can of discount interior paint from the local hardware store. Where they mix the colors, they often have a bunch of different 1-2 pint cans of wrong shades etc. that are sold for -50%.

MDF will warp if you only paint one side (as most paints shrink a little when drying, this pulls one side into a curve) - so paint BOTH sides to avoid this.

So, the best option would be:

To paint one side, while clamped down ~ then as soon as it is dry, paint the other side while it is clamped down, and if you don't have any free edging for clamping, you'd then repeat the procedure by moving the clamps to painted areas and then painting the areas the clamps were previously in (for both sides).......?

And I think I am going to splash out and just buy some standard priced interior primer "home paint", rather than look for cheap solutions that might compromise the whole project by not properly sealing the MDF or being too "liquidy" to make it more prone to warping.

Although I will be sure to check the "half tin / wrong mixed colour" section

Thank for all your help so far, I've been stuck at the basing stage for 6 months now...! :( (but it has given me time to start sketching out plans instead of creating straight from my head willy nilly )

I definitely wouldn't need to attempt stanley'n every one of the edges.

I wouldn't say that re-clamping is necessary during priming/sealing. The area covered by the clamps during your first pass is small enough (assuming you aren't using gigantic wood screw clamps) that a quick touchup of the bare spots doesn't carry much risk. Slathering the whole face in PVA or acrylic paint will turn your base into a Pringle, painting a few spots of 1-2 square inches (set in from the edges, no less) won't.

Regarding the questions in the earlier set of quotes: Yes, I was talking about using different adhesives for attaching the terrain to the base. Hot glue or construction adhesives (Liquid Nails, et al) don't shrink while they dry and have a heavy body, meaning good contact, a strong bond, and zero risk of warping. I still generally use PVA for sealing the cut edges of MDF (the faces just get paint), and I clamp the base flat while that dries.

Polystyrene is a pretty flexible plastic, in both senses of the word. Just as PVC can be made into hard pipes, squishy figurines (Reaper's Bones line), or stretchy fetish-wear, styrene comes in varying formulations with different properties. When you buy plasticard for modeling, you're generally dealing with HIPS. Cheap "for sale" and similar signs are sheet polystyrene, too, but they're usually quite soft (they feel almost porous, to me), by comparison - that's the difference "high impact" makes.

On hardboard, MDF, etc: Medium Density Fiberboard is the stuff I generally use, which I buy in a 4'x8' sheet at Lowes (and have them cut down, so I can carry it in my little Honda Civic). It's the dark brown stuff with one relatively smooth side (others have a waffle-print back) and one very smooth side. Files, saws, and sandpaper will work it, but save the chisels for wood - the stuff is layered like cardboard and will flake off or delaminate and "squish" before it carves. There's also High Density Fiberboard - the stiffer stuff you might find serving as the back of a clipboard - that is often a lighter color. If you're lucky, those poster frame backs might be made of this. The tighter "grain" makes it cut cleaner and respond better to fine finishing than MDF. Old speaker cabinets, flat-pack furniture, countertops... any manufactured board that hides under laminate tends to be something between HDF and OSB (Oriented Strand Board) - stiff and reasonably light, but with a very chunky grain that makes it unsuitable for our purposes. Removable back panels, as opposed to the body of the cab, may be HDF.

If it's a small piece of terrain I just use a Dreadnought base.

oadie ~ Thanks for the words Brother. Very kind of you to take the time to be descriptive enough so someone who doesn't already know, can learn. Much obliged

I recently acquired some floor panels that I will be using for basing my first lot of terrain, which I don't expect to be as good as what I am aiming for but I hope to learn enough (and discover more I need to learn) to make better attempts at my bigger ideas.

I also relented and bought some expensive (£13/$20 for 750ml) MDF primer after not having any success at finding a cheaper alternative.

@Matthew ~ I'm more looking for building and ruins bases here to build a city board.
Although I will be using bases (25mm to 60mm) for objective markers I just can't decide between Gold and Silver base edges, or the classic Red and Blue - both have good and bad points.
Gold and Silver are slightly more neutral and could easily blend into the battlefield which can be great for keeping the board looking nice, but Red and Blue will "pop" a lot more and help bring distinction between the terrain we are fighting in and the objective markers we are fighting over...... (both would be ideal, but I'm already stretched to mania point with an abundance of projects! :p )