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Made in au
Regular Dakkanaut




Administratum Water Cooler Loiterer [Brisbane.Au]

Hiya,
    I need to know a better way to remove flash. I picked up a set of citadel files recently and have found them to be a little too coarse. I use some dry brushing on some of my schemes and I still see flash lines or scoring from the files.

<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--><!--[endif]--> So, if anyone has a really good technique for smoother results I?d love to hear it.

<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--><!--[endif]--> Cheers
Usiel

<!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--><!--[endif]--> Also what is a good tool for hard to reach places that the files or a craft knife won?t fit?


Don't listen to Tzeentch children, he wont give you his pocket money if you kill each other

DoW: FIRESTORM - http://dow.40k.se/~dow40k/forum 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





If you have a sharp craft knife you could use that.

Make sure it has no imperfections.

Place the sharp edge on the model horizontally and drag across the mold line. this should scrape off!

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





If you have a sharp craft knife you could use that.

Make sure it has no imperfections.

Place the sharp edge on the model horizontally and drag across the mold line. this should scrape off!

   
Made in gb
Dangerous Skeleton Captain






Make your own sanding sticks. Buy 240 and 400 grit sandpaper (more if you so desire) and wrap them around popsicle sticks. Use the file as a first pass, then the 240, and finally the 400 grit sandpaper. The finish should suffice for gaming purposes. If the area is difficult to get into, then use the craft knife approach. In all likelyhood, if file can't get in there, neither can your brush.

Cheers

Z4Miniatures - The Terran Diplomatic Corps

http://z4miniatures.blogspot.com 
   
Made in nz
Slaanesh Veteran Marine with Tentacles





Posted By Commander Usiel on 04/15/2006 2:45 AM
Also what is a good tool for hard to reach places that the files or a craft knife won?t fit?
The Mini Finger Tool Set looks promising:
   
Made in us
Foul Dwimmerlaik






Minneapolis, MN

I first cut away as much of the lines as possible with an exacto, then I hold the exacto perpendicular to the model and scrape across as quickly as possible. If you dont, then you get spots where the knife blade "jumps", creating weird washboard ripples in the plastic (this applies to metal too.)

One that is done, you still have to go back and smooth even further. This entails using a very fine abrasive sand paper, made out of acrylic sheets. These have been used by plastic and resin car modellers for years, so shouldnt be a problem finding them. I get mine from michaels.

Now, if there is some major flaws in the molding, then you will have to fill in the gaps with modelling putty or greenstuff before you begin any shearing away of flash. This is to help the transition of the model, so that you dont see any major dips in them.

Files are good too, for rough work, but you will need to use the knife or the abrasive acrylic paper to get a really good smoothness. For metal models, replace acrylic abrasive paper with steel wool. The fine variety. Keep the hygiene good during these steps, as this isnt nice to breathe, rubbed into eyes, ingested, etc... wash hands alot.

   
Made in au
Regular Dakkanaut




Administratum Water Cooler Loiterer [Brisbane.Au]

Excellent

Thanks all!

Usiel

Don't listen to Tzeentch children, he wont give you his pocket money if you kill each other

DoW: FIRESTORM - http://dow.40k.se/~dow40k/forum 
   
 
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