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Made in si
Charging Dragon Prince





Greetings

I have a problem with paint chipping. I was directed to GW technical 'ardcoat and lahmian. All fine and well, however I mixed them with water as I find the final effect to be just a bit too shiny. Today someone with a bit more mileage said this isn't advisable, my search or previous advices didn't lead to anything that would say it's inadvisable or what ill effects this would mean, could someone with experience tell me if this is true?

I imagine over mixing it with water could be problematic, though I use two layers to avoid applying too little protection/over shiny result. The mixture is somewhat 60/40 ratio of water : technical. The problem of paint chipping still persist by noticeably less and I partially blame it a rather harsh foam (KR case).

Thanks in advance.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/06 19:58:08


 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





A good primer paint with plenty of time to dry BEFORE painting the model helps. You can buy matt varnish if you don't like the shine but mixing with water will just reduce its protectiveness.
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

"Paint chipping"

Question: down to the base material (metal / plastic), down to the primer or just the clear coat?

Covering all bases:
1) Wash new bare model (or sprue!) in detergent / anti-grease soap to remove mold release, hitting it with a toothbrush may help (can very slightly rough the surface for more "tooth" or surface area to bond to).
2) Apply a couple thin layers of primer at a time (allow 10 minutes between coats assuming sprayed on) about 8" away if using primer can.
3) Mount model with stand to something to hold (old paint pot, cork, small medicine container, old film canister, diabetic strip container...) to keep finger oils off.
4) If partially painted models sit around for a time uncovered: dust off with large makeup blush brush or give a good wash and dry well.
5) When painting complete, allow at least a day to dry then hard coat (durability) clear prime first. A little bit at a time with good dry times between layers (a full day if brush-on).
6) After 10-20 minutes of dry time (spray-on) spray a thin layer of "Matt coat" (to remove shine).

Brush on primers are more problematic due to thicker consistency, too much water can decrease the "cross-linking" of the clear paint, I would only wet enough to aid in the flow of getting good coverage.

Globbing on thick layers of any coating will tend to chip or come off in large chunks (better bond to the layer itself than the surface).

All should be well if this is followed.

Makes sense?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/06 20:17:20


A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in si
Charging Dragon Prince





Paint chipped all the way to tin.

I follow most of the advices (exception of 4, 6 and I didn't wash first few miniatures I purchased). I won't use any water from now forward, will see if problem persists.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/06 20:33:42


 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

 Knight wrote:
Paint chipped all the way to tin.
Okay, so we have to ensure the primer sticks well to the base material.
I fine sanding could help with the previously mentioned "tooth" for the paint to grip to.
The cleaning off of mold release with a "harsh" detergent will be of some help as well.
I strongly suggest the use of a spray-on primer, they tend to have some solvent in them to help with the surface preparation.
A good drop on a hard surface, no paint, primer or clear-coat will protect from the paint flaking off: does not handle compression / impact well.
This is at it's worst on round surfaces or an edge.
Good luck, space marine helmets at the top of their heads and I guy I have with a mace (the crown of the mace) sometimes needs touch-up on a drop.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
 
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