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Made in au
Been Around the Block




Brisbane, Queensland

Does anyone know of a good tutorial for people who know how to use a brush, but aren't getting the final product they're aiming for?
   
Made in us
Drakhun





Eaton Rapids, MI

There is a virtual mountain out there of stuff on the internet to help you get better. YouTube is full of videos.....

Off the top of my head:

MiniWargameing
Awesome Paintjob
HandCannon Online (they use PP figures but painting is painting).

Post up some pics of your work, ask for feedback too. Other than that what specifically are you looking to get better at?

Now with 100% more blog....

CLICK THE LINK to my painting blog... You know you wanna. Do it, Just do it, like right now.
http://fltmedicpaints.blogspot.com

 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Much like a crap mmo, you need to grind levels in real life too.

Practice practice practice

Also, if you were the dude buying an airbrush, check out buypainted on YouTube

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/25 10:26:46


 
   
Made in au
Been Around the Block




Brisbane, Queensland

 darefsky wrote:
There is a virtual mountain out there of stuff on the internet to help you get better. YouTube is full of videos.....

Off the top of my head:

MiniWargameing
Awesome Paintjob
HandCannon Online (they use PP figures but painting is painting).

Post up some pics of your work, ask for feedback too. Other than that what specifically are you looking to get better at?

I know how to paint a model confidently with a good interesting colour scheme, bash kits pretty decently, and do all that good stuff. But I'm crap at highlighting, and I usually just nuln oil something until it looks good. I want good models you know?
   
Made in au
Terminator with Assault Cannon






brisbane, australia

drybrush. I'm in the same boat as you mate, but i've only just discovered drybrush. one or two nice dry-brushes make a model go from meh, to good table top quality.

*Insert witty and/or interesting statement here* 
   
Made in au
Been Around the Block




Brisbane, Queensland

 the shrouded lord wrote:
drybrush. I'm in the same boat as you mate, but i've only just discovered drybrush. one or two nice dry-brushes make a model go from meh, to good table top quality.

Thanks for the tip m8.
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Avoid drybrushing whenever you can. The only times you should really use it are in high texture areas (fur, ground, tank treads, etc.) or an area that will mostly be obscured but partially visible (inside of a tank, aircraft cockpit, etc.).

If you are going to do it, do it right. Make sure your brush is bone dry; absolutely no moisture on it. Wipe all of the paint off the brush to the point where dragging it along the model leaves almost no paint. Use that to build up successive layers of paint to prevent brush marks: the cardinal sin of dry brushing.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in it
Grey Knight Purgator firing around corners






Exalt on ScootyPuffJunior's words: extensive and "uncontrolled" use of drybrushing is the 'dark side' of painting.

Getting shades and highlights with a smooth, gradual transition is (for me, at least) a process requiring mainlu one ingredient: patience.

The best method (the best working for me, mind you) is the glaze-layering method. In short, after basecoat, wash and re-basecoat, you do many layers with darker tones to define shadows, and then with lighter to define highlights.
The long part requiring patience is that "re-basecoat" and the layers for shadows and lights are evry diluted, to a watercolour/glaze consistency; ten or more progressively smaller, transparent layers of tones that will define the gradients.
More than that, with a relatively light - and thinned enough - colour, a gradient may be built from a dark base (e.g. several blood red glazes on a scorched brown base... whatever they are called now).

2270 (1725 painted)
1978 (180 painted)
329 (280ish)
705 (0)
193 (0)
165 (0)
:assassins: 855 (540) 
   
Made in us
Drakhun





Eaton Rapids, MI

 Taserdus Marg wrote:
 darefsky wrote:
There is a virtual mountain out there of stuff on the internet to help you get better. YouTube is full of videos.....

Off the top of my head:

MiniWargameing
Awesome Paintjob
HandCannon Online (they use PP figures but painting is painting).

Post up some pics of your work, ask for feedback too. Other than that what specifically are you looking to get better at?

I know how to paint a model confidently with a good interesting colour scheme, bash kits pretty decently, and do all that good stuff. But I'm crap at highlighting, and I usually just nuln oil something until it looks good. I want good models you know?


I'd also recommend looking into 2 brush blending. It will give you smooth transitions and you can effectively manipulate the look of the model with brighter into darker colors, its a pain in the rear to learn (I'm still messing around with it), but the end results are fantastic.

Now with 100% more blog....

CLICK THE LINK to my painting blog... You know you wanna. Do it, Just do it, like right now.
http://fltmedicpaints.blogspot.com

 
   
Made in gb
Wing Commander






Maybe try a wet palette? Supposedly one of the best/highest ramps to your paint skills. You can make your own, like so;


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/25 21:13:36


Homebrew Imperial Guard: 1222nd Etrurian Lancers (Winged); Special Air-Assault Brigade (SAAB)
Homebrew Chaos: The Black Suns; A Medrengard Militia (think Iron Warriors-centric Blood Pact/Sons of Sek) 
   
Made in us
Boosting Ultramarine Biker




Illinois, USA

 darefsky wrote:


I'd also recommend looking into 2 brush blending. It will give you smooth transitions and you can effectively manipulate the look of the model with brighter into darker colors, its a pain in the rear to learn (I'm still messing around with it), but the end results are fantastic.


I share your pain. Even with retarder, I couldn't get consistent results with acrylics. I switched to artists oils, and wow, what a difference. I wouldn't use artists oils for an entire model, but for PWs and other small areas, it works sooo much better than acrylics. The down side is the length of time it takes to cure before you can top coat, but the upside side is bolder, more vibrant color, and much smoother color transitions. The almost infinite open time also allows you to use one brush, and the added benefit of being able to take your time. Plus, if you screw up, it wipes right off.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/27 14:20:29


 
   
 
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