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I'm returning to the hobby seriously and I have bought enough miniatures to make an SM drop pod list, the pods are made in sub assemblies and I'm about to start making 50 tactical marines.

Now I want to varnish them but there are a number of ways I could do it: army painter quick shade (although I don't think SM will look as good when dipped) or I could use an aerosol gloss and matt varnish and paint them traditionally. I had a small SM force a few years ago that i did have to sell a couple of years back, I used Vallejo spray gloss and matt and I wasn't impressed so will not be using them.

These are the products I am contemplating:

Spray varnish: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006XBT39Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=T6LGZVOU7QUU&coliid=I3QY7H5TIFF4EU

Dip: https://www.darksphere.co.uk/p.php?p=5811&c=298

I will be using either dullcote or AP matt varnish afterwards.

Any help or other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Airbrushing is not possible.

In my experience, the gloss coat sprays all work pretty well. It's really the matte finish that is tricky.

I would definitely use a spray rather than brush or dip. If you want to go fancy, Liquitex makes a nice rattle can gloss varnish, but frankly, all the gloss coats look the same to me.

Go for the cheapest possible. They are all almost basically the same anyway..
The matte ones on the other hand. There you can find huge differences. One brands super matte can be another brands bog standard matte coat.

Why is airbrushing a no-go?

Given the amount you're doing, a cheap AB setup is not going to cost a lot more (if any), and will save you a lot of stress, as well as open up options for paintwork that aren't achievable with rattlecans.

I'd say airbrush in combination with a household floor varnish.
Super cheap and works like a charm. 1 liter is approx 3 Euro. A 17ml dropper of Vallejo varnish costs the same, a rattle can more. Neither last anyway as far of course.

Emsal Voll Glanz is what I buy in Germany.
The US product is Johnson's Klear iirc.
If you google the later you should find something you can get around the corner in the UK.

The current UK formulation of Klear is not so good for dipping canopies etc, but I'm informed it works as before for glossing for decals and oil washes. Let it dry for at least 24 hours before.

winterdyne wrote:
Why is airbrushing a no-go?

Given the amount you're doing, a cheap AB setup is not going to cost a lot more (if any), and will save you a lot of stress, as well as open up options for paintwork that aren't achievable with rattlecans.

I have got an brand new Iwata Neo still in its box, but if i'm honest i am slightly daunted by using it I read all the horror stories about bent needles, them clogging up, i suppose once you get used to them they are really easy to use, it is just taking the big leap.

All i would need to buy is the airbrush kits with the 2 cheap airbrushes and all the fluids and I would be away.

Doesn't varnish mess up airbrushes though?

Nah.. I use the Army Painter Matte Varnish thinned with a little bit of Vodka for quicker drying time.
It doesn't mess up my airbrush at all.
Get yourself a cavity brush for nozzle cleaning.
As for the horrorstories. Just play around on a piece of cardboard to get the mechanics in your fingers.
In fact have some cardboard available for checking the airbrush spray before spraying..

And do practice spraying lines and dots.
A piece of gridpaper is perfect for this.

To be honest, what clogs airbrushes is leaving the varnish in them overnight. Or paint. Just get into the habit of cleaning it out properly (use an airbrush cleaner after regular paints) and never leaving it dirty and all's groovy. The number of times I've had to double back to work half way home because I've remembered I left varnish in the AB is startling.

Just use the Iwata. A good metal airbrush means only the seals could ever react with whatever you are shooting. A bent needle can be replaced and ordered separately.

I had no problems with cleaning my H&S Evolution airbrush from varnish. I use about 50 psi, a 0.4mm needle/nozzle and just rinse/flush with destilled water, airbrush cleaner or alcohol as I see fit. Just like with any paint, rinsing and cleaning the airbrush the second your paint reservoir is empty is key.

Ok, I will be buying an airbrush & compressor kit from Ebay tonight, expect me to be back asking many more questions about that!

Is it necessary thin varnish for an airbrush or do use just use varnish straight from the bottle? If you do dilute what ratio should it be in and should you use water or airbrush thinner?

Halfords is probably the easiest place to get your spray cans from in the UK. Nation wide chain with stores all over the place... chances are good theres one near you in the UK.
They stock most of what we want in the hobby.
Black, grey, white, red, beige, dark green, dark brown primers / matt paints (as good as for our purpose)
Clear lacquer - gloss top coat
Matt lacquer - matt top coat.

I thin everything going through my airbrush with regular Vodka.
You can use rubbing alcohol thinned down to a 4 parts alcohol to 6 parts water. This leaves you with a 40% roughly alcohol solution. Pretty much the same proof as Vodka..

As for how thin..
Think skimmed milk for consistency.
I use a dropper to add liquids to my paints..