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I want to use plain basic bases for my models and would rather not have to repaint over them. Every time I use super glue I get frosting around the area I glued. I am using some metal models so plastic glue is no good for me. Is there a better glue than super glue but don't frost up the area or a different glue that doesn't do this?

I've had some of that same issue gluing some magnets on some models. Doesn't happen every time though. The only think I can think of is used to much glue.

Worst case is you have to touch up with some black paint otherwise if it keeps frosting on you.

I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to achieve.

If it's just a quick assembly on a slotted 25mm, inset first, superglue from the bottom and presto. That sure isn't going to look pretty though -- I wouldn't think dried superglue would be an issue as you'll see the top of the tab.

If you want to glue a miniature onto a finished base without messing up the base, pin it, and again, glue the pins from the bottom.

Also, when gluing together two painted parts, use a paper clip or toothpick to apply the glue rather than the tip of the glue bottle. That gives you better control, and remember, you don't need a lot of superglue -- just two receptive surfaces on which it can bond.

Personally, super glue frosting is my favorite, followed immediately by cream cheese frosting. With that said, be mindful of the cleanliness of the bonding surfaces, and even how humid it is where you're doing the gluing. If it's really wet or you have residue, it could result in the frosting issue.

The frosting is from the fumes the glue gives off. It will be worse in areas where fumes can build up while it dries, and it can happen if you use too much glue because the fumes will tend to linger around. When you're gluing, if your fingers are obscuring the joint, chances are your fingers are stopping airflow, allowing fumes to build up and cause the frosting.

This is why you should never use superglue on canopies, the fumes get trapped under the canopy and frost everything up.

If you can have air blowing across the model while you glue it and while the glue is drying and use tweezers to keep the joint area clear, you might be able to get rid of frosting.

I have read been told, but haven't actually tried it myself, if an area is frosted up you can clear it with some saliva and gently rub it off.

Otherwise swap to a glue that doesn't cause frosting.

This is the glue I use:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hlc/hlc108.htm

Insta-Cure Gap Filling Cyanoacrylate -- I buy it in the smallest size (1/2 oz). I also have their thin version, and their thick version, and none of them have ever caused frosting... neither near joints or the base, but I usually use a miniscule amount, never enough to have excess.

I did not know about the fumes. Neato.

Nail polish remover dissolves most superglue, so you can paint some on with a brush to clear it off. I've had good results with this.

It is hard to use on a very small area or join, though -- because you want to dissolve the frosting, not the join itself.

pretty much anything can get rid of it in my experience. try matte medium, gloss varnish, glaze medium, matte varnish, mineral spirits, alcohol mixed with warm water. etc.

or most washes could also dissolve it too but then you might not want to be adding more color.

edit: i dont agree on nailpolish remover, that will be overkill and will fark your paint.

Acetone, or similar will also wreck the Perspex base.
Here's Two Tricks (tm):

First, get some future floor polish (klear in the uk). Airbrush or dip this onto the base.
Pin or superglue the model to the base, use a small flat screwdriver to gently key inside the contact area, you don't want to go outside the contact area, be careful here.
The base may look frosted, you can use ammonia solution or windex to remove the klear and the frosting with it.

Method 2 is better, but means thinking about how to hold a model in position on the base without touching either (I use a set of 'helping hands' with blu-tack to hold base and model, or wrap the clamps in tape to prevent damage,

Second, use a 5minute clear epoxy rather than superglue. This may mean devising some means of support to hold the model and base in the right positions while the glue sets.

Immediately after putting the glue on you can try dunking it in water. Super glue cures even while underwater and they use it for mounting live coral inside aquariums (which has to stay completely submerged)

It may not be the easiest of things to do but the water would likely keep vapors from drifting onto the piece and frosting it.


Don't use the gel kind that tends to frost far worse then the normal liquid stuff, and when using the liquid you only need a very tiny amount. I used to have all sorts of issues with frosting when I used the gel or if I squeezed too much out, nowdays I only use the liquid version and I'm careful how much I use and haven't had anything frost on me in ages.

Sorry to open an old thread but I would basically open up a very similar one so... does the frost from the super glue damage the plastic?

For example, when I base my models and eventually paint them, will the frost show through the paint?

Depending on the area to be glued, it might be possible to shield the base with masking tape. Any frosting will accumulate on the tape and be peeled away,

This is an old thread, but its not topical at all (the question/answers are as relevant today as they were in 2014), so there's no reason to lock this for thread necromancy (so nobody else needs to report it, thanks!).

 Vulcan wrote:
Depending on the area to be glued, it might be possible to shield the base with masking tape. Any frosting will accumulate on the tape and be peeled away,

I'm talking about the plastic on the model itself. I do a lot of conversion work and cutting (why I don't prime, paint, and then build my army)

I have some frost on backpacks and chest plates on my models... will it bleed through the paint and primer

Curious. I have some thousands of minis I've done and never once have I seen super glue frosting from 'assemble then paint' bleed THROUGH paint and primer.

Sorry, I'm out of ideas.

@Talys had it right - use the CA gel and you really minimize the frosting.

My solution is to never use superglue where possible, I work 95% in plastic and thus use plastic cement.

On rare cases in which in need superglue (like for magnets, green stuff or wood for bases, etc), I use as little superglue as possible.

I do this by not using the applicator on the actual surfaces, but rather but putting some glue on a palate or other surface and using a paperclip or other small item to pick up a small bit of glue and apply it to the surface.
This cuts down the chances of accidentally applying too much glue and I have never had any fume/frosting issues.

I also make sure the model has plenty of open space around it as it dries

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 Galef wrote:
My solution is to never use superglue where possible, I work 95% in plastic and thus use plastic cement.

On rare cases in which in need superglue (like for magnets, green stuff or wood for bases, etc), I use as little superglue as possible.

I do this by not using the applicator on the actual surfaces, but rather but putting some glue on a palate or other surface and using a paperclip or other small item to pick up a small bit of glue and apply it to the surface.
This cuts down the chances of accidentally applying too much glue and I have never had any fume/frosting issues.

I also make sure the model has plenty of open space around it as it dries

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The only thing I would add to these awesome tips, is avoid accelerant. While in a pinch accelerant can be life changing, it is the fastest sure fire way to get frosting!

I agree wholeheartedly. I have NEVER used accelerant, but have seen people struggle with it.
If your super glue isn't setting quickly, it's probably bad and you need a different glue.

You don't need anything fancy. I personally use cheap liquid glue (not gel)
Over my hobby-life, I have assembled thousands of models (not exaggerating, I used to commission build/paint peoples armies)
Of those models many did need super glue (metal or magnets, etc).