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Made in us
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






I'm modding my Warhammer 40k Imperial Knight to have glowy LED green eyes. That bit's already done. The body is hollow, and the dream was to cut a slot to slide a 2032 coin batter into the back like a coin for a vending machine, sticking halfway out and covered by a cloak. The slot's been cut and can easily be expanded. Problem is, I'm having trouble making anything for the connectors, some kind of battery slot with Pos/Neg wires on top and bottom.

Please advise!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I found some premade sockets online, but they're 3 Pin. I don't know enough about electrical, but I figure the third is ground. Will it be okay to ignore that third one, hook the other 2 up, and set it all in place?

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/10/28 05:49:43



DR:80-S++G+M-B---I+Pw40k#10++D+A++++/cWD-R+++T(T)DM+
(Grey Knights 4500+) (Eldar 4000+ Pts) (Tyranids 3000 Pts) (Tau 3000 Pts) (Imperial Guard 3500 Pts) (Doom Eagles 3000 Pts) (Orks 3000+ Pts) (Necrons 2500 Pts) (Daemons 2000) (Sisters of Battle 2000) (2 Imperial Knights) 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Without seeing one in person, it's hard for me to say.
The only coin cell holders I've seen only had two lugs.


I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






Can you give me any kind of link/reference? The only kind of slide-in type sockets i can find are 3 prong


DR:80-S++G+M-B---I+Pw40k#10++D+A++++/cWD-R+++T(T)DM+
(Grey Knights 4500+) (Eldar 4000+ Pts) (Tyranids 3000 Pts) (Tau 3000 Pts) (Imperial Guard 3500 Pts) (Doom Eagles 3000 Pts) (Orks 3000+ Pts) (Necrons 2500 Pts) (Daemons 2000) (Sisters of Battle 2000) (2 Imperial Knights) 
   
Made in gb
Mysterious Techpriest







you want something like this?
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/battery-holders-mounts/4814162/

Also batteries don't have a ground in the way you are suggesting.

can you link me the mount you are talking about?

also you want to put a 220 ohm resistor in there between the long arm of the LED and the + of the battery

Edit: ok maybe not that mount, servs me right for not reading the datasheet first there is plenty of choice around.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/10/28 07:24:00





 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






This is what I was looking at. http://m.ebay.com/itm/130942181363?_mwBanner=1


DR:80-S++G+M-B---I+Pw40k#10++D+A++++/cWD-R+++T(T)DM+
(Grey Knights 4500+) (Eldar 4000+ Pts) (Tyranids 3000 Pts) (Tau 3000 Pts) (Imperial Guard 3500 Pts) (Doom Eagles 3000 Pts) (Orks 3000+ Pts) (Necrons 2500 Pts) (Daemons 2000) (Sisters of Battle 2000) (2 Imperial Knights) 
   
Made in nl
Deadly Dark Eldar Warrior





The middle peg is the "-" side.
The left one is the "+" side.
The right one is for mounting.
If you do not want to wait for shipping and already cut the slot for the battery. Just take a paper clip and snip of 2 pieces that have a "J" shape. One on the top and one on the bottom and Bob's your uncle. (Has the added bonus of not having to worry about the polarity of the LED's. As long as both LED's are fitted the same way)
(As mentioned before please add a resistor to balance the load. Somewhere between 100 and 470 Ohm is fine)
   
Made in gb
Mysterious Techpriest







Looks like the centre one is the -ve and the side two pins are +ve. (it says so on the diagram)

So you can use either side electrodes, or both, with the centre electrode completing the circuit.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/10/28 08:41:55





 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






badkamer1 wrote:
The middle peg is the "-" side.
The left one is the "+" side.
The right one is for mounting.
If you do not want to wait for shipping and already cut the slot for the battery. Just take a paper clip and snip of 2 pieces that have a "J" shape. One on the top and one on the bottom and Bob's your uncle. (Has the added bonus of not having to worry about the polarity of the LED's. As long as both LED's are fitted the same way)
(As mentioned before please add a resistor to balance the load. Somewhere between 100 and 470 Ohm is fine)


Genius! I'm doing that.

Honorable mention to OneManNoodles, for actually reading the diagram, unlike me.


DR:80-S++G+M-B---I+Pw40k#10++D+A++++/cWD-R+++T(T)DM+
(Grey Knights 4500+) (Eldar 4000+ Pts) (Tyranids 3000 Pts) (Tau 3000 Pts) (Imperial Guard 3500 Pts) (Doom Eagles 3000 Pts) (Orks 3000+ Pts) (Necrons 2500 Pts) (Daemons 2000) (Sisters of Battle 2000) (2 Imperial Knights) 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

Don't forget to build an ejection mechanism so you can remove the old battery.

 
   
Made in nl
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





Tilburg, Netherlands

Why don't you work down the wires to the base and put the battery on the bottom side of the base? less cutting in the model and you don't have to build a ejection mechanism to remove the old battery?

   
Made in us
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






Winterdyne, it will be half sticking out the back, covered by a black cape.

Remco, I already cut the slot. I just need to insert the socket.


DR:80-S++G+M-B---I+Pw40k#10++D+A++++/cWD-R+++T(T)DM+
(Grey Knights 4500+) (Eldar 4000+ Pts) (Tyranids 3000 Pts) (Tau 3000 Pts) (Imperial Guard 3500 Pts) (Doom Eagles 3000 Pts) (Orks 3000+ Pts) (Necrons 2500 Pts) (Daemons 2000) (Sisters of Battle 2000) (2 Imperial Knights) 
   
 
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