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Made in no
Been Around the Block






Norway

Sooooo... iv been into warhammer for a good 10+ years and lately my Marines have started to crumble.. its not even my oldest models, wich are still up and running.
theyr like 4+years old at the max. and the glue i all crystalized and crunchy. Been useing the Citedal plastic glue for ages ( and lately the armypainter glue, wich looks to be holding up)

Any reason this is happening? anything i can do to prevent it?
Iv always tried to use just the perfect amout of glue, so that it holds but dosent show or runn/melt


'Shrug'

   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Washington DC

Where do you store them?
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Because...it is Citadel Plastic Glue...

A lot of the cheaper glues have that happen. They load up with fillers or a cheap polystyrene thickener. It is brittle from the start and only gets worse as exposed to oxidizing agents (light, air...the usual).

Best solution is the break them apart, scrape off all traces of the glue and put them back together with a quality plastic cement.

The next best option would be to use a low viscosity super glue and cross your fingers. Hope the superglue holds the cheap plastic glue together with the rest of the model.
   
Made in no
Been Around the Block






Norway

Storage is a bit random, some are on display in verious shelfs, but my marine army has mostly been in a foam suitcase.

yeah im working on just breaking them up and cutting away the crunchy gak... but man they are far from what they used to be once put back 2gether....

been looking for a new glue to use, but as i live up in the assend of northern Norway, and our local hobby shop closed many many many years ago.. getting glue and other supplies are tough.

Could you reccomend a glue and a site that sells it? maybe a brand name?

Been reading up on glues and stuff and found a review by a guy thats been doing modeling for over 40 years, and he said the best one you can use is the ...god.. no idia what the name was... but its a blue 'bottle' with a yellow tip and a loong metal needle. the kind you get in modeling kits of airplanes and tanks, remember haveing one when i was like 10


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Glueing one right now.. and all the air bubbles in the citadel glue has me worried :s

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/12 21:59:03


   
Made in us
Rough Rider with Boomstick






Testors glue has been just about unbeatable in my experience, that is available on amazon.com and most other hobby sites.

You say Fiery Crash! I say Dynamic Entry!

*Increases Game Point Limit by 100*: Tau get two Crisis Suits and a Firewarrior. Imperial Guard get two infantry companies, artillery support, and APCs. 
   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Washington DC

I use galeforce 9 almost exclusively, sometimes Zapagap CA+

http://www.gf9.com/
   
Made in no
Been Around the Block






Norway

mkey cheers, ima chek some of those out.. just dont trust those fething airbubbles comming out of the citadel glue.

while i have you here, what do you reccomend useing on plastic card?

gotta get some now so il see you lads tomorrow. and thanks sofar

it rly rly pisses me off seeing things snap and crumble : /

   
Made in fr
Violent Enforcer







I think the glue you're describing is by Revell btw

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/12 22:49:20


 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

For plasticard stuff, I generally use revell's contacta stuff.

Liquid poly cement in a jar or bottle (the bottles come in two colours. Dark blue is contacta pro - but the lighter blue bottle (contacta) is also fine. Main difference is nozzle size. CP has a slightly thinner nozzle.). Revell's stuff should be readily available in Europe as they are German.

Otherwise, Testors, Humbrol and Tamiya ALL have similar products and should be also readily available in other places. I'd expect to see Testors stuff in the US, for example.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/13 04:28:20


I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in gb
Junior Officer with Laspistol





Desperado Corp.

Just to echo others, it's the citadel stuff. It used to be ok, now it's pretty awful. I use Humbrol poly cement, which has yet to fail me in any capacity

Pretre: OOOOHHHHH snap. That's like driving away from hitting a pedestrian.
Pacific:First person to Photoshop a GW store into the streets of Kabul wins the thread.
Selym: "Be true to thyself, play Chaos" - Jesus, Daemon Prince of Cegorach.
H.B.M.C: You can't lobotomise someone twice. 
   
Made in no
Hacking Interventor






Testors Plastic cement for plastics.
And Biltema's dirt cheap superglue for everything else..
10 NOK for five tubes of 0,5 gr.
Or try the Loctite brand from Clas Ohlson stores.
For gluing my minis to my bases I use a two component epoxy like Araldit Rapid, just make sure you mix it up properly.

Btw do you pin your metal minis? If not.. Do it. It gives a much larger surface area for the glue to "bite" into.

I may be an donkey-cave, but at least I'm an equal oppurtunity donkey-cave...

 
   
Made in de
Swift Swooping Hawk






I have models, put together with Revell plastic glue, that hold together since 20 years now. Never had a problem with it, even at extreme temperatures.

My armies:
Eldar
Necron
Chaos Space Marines
Grey Knights
Imperial Knights
Death Guard
 
   
Made in us
Tough-as-Nails Ork Boy





I use Tamiya extra thin.

It doesnt actually leave anything behind TO get brittle and fall apart. Its not an adhesive. It de-bonds the plastic, and when it evaporates, the plastic re-bonds back together.

This is nice, because it doesnt leave glue goop everywhere like thick glues do (Testors).
   
Made in us
Daemonic Dreadnought





Eye of Terror

+1 for Testors, it's all I use these days. I have heard good things about the Tamiya and want to experiment with it at some point.

   
Made in no
Hacking Interventor






The Testors Plastic Cement is quite thin.
Testors Liquid Cement 3502X is the correct name I belive.
Its a liquid. Its in the name.
Their product range is quite large.

I may be an donkey-cave, but at least I'm an equal oppurtunity donkey-cave...

 
   
Made in us
Tough-as-Nails Ork Boy





 Tjomball wrote:
The Testors Plastic Cement is quite thin.
Testors Liquid Cement 3502X is the correct name I belive.
Its a liquid. Its in the name.
Their product range is quite large.


Gotcha. Havent seen that for sale yet. All I ever saw was the stuff in a tube, which comes out like syrup. Technically syrup is still a liquid.
   
Made in gb
Tail-spinning Tomb Blade Pilot






UK

To be fair even superglue is brittle and can over time fail.

Proper polystyrene cement such asTestors or Humbrol would be my only choice. Indeed all of my 1998 bought Orks and Brettonians are perfectly fine.

Conversley all of the superglued parts I've had to epoxy and pin over time.

If I am not in my room, is it still my room?  
   
Made in no
Hacking Interventor






You want the liquid stuff in a bottle. Not the gel from a tube.
The key is the capillary action for getting just the right amount of glue. Its perfect for GW plastics.
But dont expect to break the bond easily.
The parts are basically chemically welded together.
As soon as I have another plastic kit to assemble I'm getting this again.

I may be an donkey-cave, but at least I'm an equal oppurtunity donkey-cave...

 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

For polystyrene plastic only:
You want the glue to "weld", melt the plastic not just stick.
The red and white Testors glue in the squeeze-tube has worked well.
I have used the Tamiya thin (green cap) and thick (white cap) and have had nothing fall apart.
Plastruct (orange and black bottle) I found works on pretty much ANY plastic, main ingredient is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) to temporarily melt the plastic for a weld.
Has the side benefit of cutting through mold release residue on plastic.

For metal only or plastic and metal combinations:
To bond two surfaces together, strongly recommend roughly sanding each surface to bond AND pin them.
Gorilla Glue "Super Glue", I have found to be the most consistently durable bond where I have dropped models and they held together, survives hot/cold car issues too.
Loctite Super Glue ULTRA Gel Control, I found this a similar durable glue, shock/drop resistance is great.

These methods have worked well for me, hope this helps.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in ca
Lit By the Flames of Prospero





Edmonton, Alberta

Gragga Da Krumpa wrote:
I use Tamiya extra thin.

It doesnt actually leave anything behind TO get brittle and fall apart. Its not an adhesive. It de-bonds the plastic, and when it evaporates, the plastic re-bonds back together.

This is nice, because it doesnt leave glue goop everywhere like thick glues do (Testors).



It also comes with a great brush applicator. I swear by this stuff for plastics.
   
Made in no
Been Around the Block






Norway

Tried looking up stores for the verious glues to see wich i could get ahold of for a fair price^^

If any of you, my fellow Norwegians have a link that'd be awesome^^

As for clas olson and biltema.. iv tried the metal ones theyr ok but not something i like useing^^ mostly for pinning or terrain

   
Made in no
Hacking Interventor








Mkay.. Ebay is your friend for all things Testors.
It is very possible that Amundsen Hobby in Oslo has it.
Haven't stopped by there for a while. Can possibly check for you after the weekend..

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/14 12:29:06


I may be an donkey-cave, but at least I'm an equal oppurtunity donkey-cave...

 
   
 
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