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Hello everyone,

So, I have a fairly large Ork Army that I'm thinking about breaking out of retirement. I haven't played this game in 5-6 yrs, but after spending some time on this site trying to sell my stuff, I suddenly felt the strong urge to paint my army/models to the high level of detail and finish that I've seen on a lot of models in the Dakka Gallery! Idk how I went from wanting to sell a game that I thought I would never play again, to wanting to paint them again, and possibly play them. When I painted before, I did okay, some stuff looked decent, but I was learning too.

This time I want to do everything right. Here are a few questions to start.

1. My paints are a bit dry/thick. Most are about the consistency of think mud. They appear somewhat solid and won't move when I tilt the bottle, but if I poke or touch them, I still see a thick, wet paint. Should I try to restore them? If so, what's the best method/medium to use?
2. Not sure about the condition of my brushes, but I'm guessing most of them are a bit worn out. I might take some pics and post them. What are some good brushes to get for all the basics (base coating, highlights, drybrush..whatever else)
3. I've heard it's good to water down your paints.
4. If I do get new paints, I have a place where I can buy Citadel paints for 3.69, Valejo and Privateer Press are 3.50. I think I'm going to buy all of my paints there. But are there any other recommended paints/paint kits to get?
5. Outside of Brushes and Paints, what other tools should every painter have? Is getting an Airbrush worth it?

Anyways, I know there are a lot of fantastic artists and painters out there. I would love to know what you use and how you do it! Since winter is coming and it's bitterly cold, I think I'm going to try and revive this ol' Hobby.

ps. I also have Tyranids that I may sell or keep and Paint..not sure..

1) A little bit of matt glaze medium should help bring your paints back to life.
2) I use Artist's Loft brushes from Michaels. I like them, they do what I need at a decemt price. Keep any brushes you have. Bad and worn ones still have uses such as washes and drybrushing.
3) Use a wet pallet for your paints. They cost a total of ~$5 to make with stuff from the dollar store. Youtube is full of tutorials on how to make them.
4) Personally, I use both Citadel and Vallejo Gamecolour paints. What paint you use is ultimately up to you due to preference.
5). Files, super fine grit sand paper, good cutters, a good hobby knife...need I mention glue haha; these are the essentials of the hobbyist's toolbox.
EDIT: Youll also want a good primer. Ill vouch for P3's Spray on primer, I love it!


As for an airbrush; I would say get decent at brush/hand painting before jumping into an airbrush. Most of the time, youll wind up just basing your minis with the AB and thats it. They can do lots, but nothing a steady hand and good painting cant do. Lots of detail means youre still doing brushwork anyway.
They are nice for power weapons and the like though...

1. Use the medium of the brand of paint you're trying to restore, for optimal results. For instance, for lahmian medium for GW paints that have gone thick, but are still a liquid. If they are too dry, just replace it.

2. You need to decide how much you want to spend, and how good a brush you want. On a budget, I would recommend Citadel brushes, as they are the cheapest Kolinsky sable brushes of consistent manufacture I know of. If you want to spend a little more, Winsor & Newton Series 7, Raphael 8404, and Rosemary & Co are 3 popular brushes in the $15 range.

3. All modelling paints that are water-based acrylics (Vallejo, Citadel, Reaper, Army Painter) should be thinned with water, medium, or flow enhancer. Otherwise, they go on too thick and obscure details and/or leave brushstrokes.

4. Citadel and PP paints are both great. I prefer Citadel because there are more colors. I would buy a brand stocked at your FLGS, rather than one you have to order in. Vallejo and Reaper are also popular choices.

5. Mould line remover, hobby knife, clippers, regular files, diamond files, superglue, plastic glue, hand drill all come to mind as must-have tools. PVA glue and material for bases, too.

6. A cheap airbrush and compressor will save you tons of money on primer and varnish. A good airbrush can be used for excellent effect, but be forewarned that the learning curve and prep/cleanup is steeper and less intuitive than a paintbrush.

Thanks for the information Talys and Dienekes!!
1. What was the name of the product for GW paint?
3. should I use a Wet Pallet AND the paint thinning medium/water? What are the pros and cons of each?
5. Is Mold Line remover the same as Exacto Knife? That's what I've always used.

Darkzephyr wrote:
Thanks for the information Talys and Dienekes!!
1. What was the name of the product for GW paint?
3. should I use a Wet Pallet AND the paint thinning medium/water? What are the pros and cons of each?
5. Is Mold Line remover the same as Exacto Knife? That's what I've always used.

1. If you pick a similar color glaze you should be fine, or use Lahmain Medium. It's a part of the Citadel Technical line (http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Technical) -- use the drop down menu and select Lahmain Medium.

3. Wet palette or thinning medium/water. My general rule of thumb for paint thinning is the brighter the color, the thinner the paint. The reason is because brush strokes tend to really stick out like a sore thumb when the color is brighter and the paint is thicker.

5. Not......really.... I mean, I've seen some skilled craftsmen do some crazy cleanup jobs armed with nothing but a box cutter, but for all intents and purposes, if you're starting at square 1 as far as modelling goes, a good mould line remover will certainly help. Digging into your models with an exacto knife to clean off mould lines will certainly work, but you can easily take a chunk out of your model as well. I personally do not use mould line removers as I find a super-fine file to be my weapon of choice, but most others will swear by it.

Darkzephyr wrote:
5. Is Mold Line remover the same as Exacto Knife? That's what I've always used.

You can use a knife blade if you're careful, but the traditional method is a file or the back edge of a knife. You just want a solid edge that can scrape the thin material of the mold line off without damaging the part below it.

okay, I got the Lahmain Medium. What do I do to re-activate my paints (aka make them fluid again).

I was told by the guy at my LGS to mix the Lahmain with the paints on my Wet Pallette. I guess I could do that, but I would probably need a spoon to scoop them out. I'm wondering if I can just pour a little directly into the bottle.

Also, I've watched a couple of videos on making a wet palette; There are two methods I've seen so far...wonder if one is better than the other.

1. Guy used Paper towels under Baking Parchment paper (not wax paper) inside air-tight Tupperware container.
2. Second video, guy has sponges inside tupperware container, with 3-4 layers of Papertowel and uses regular Wax paper.

Also, if I don't use a Wet palette, do I just mix paints with thinner/water on a regular plastic dry palette?

1) You can just add it to the pot. Just be careful and only add a little bit at a time, you want to reactivate the paint, not change it from paint to glaze.

2). If I remember correctly, the video you watched with the sponges is by Ichyban painting. Im certain that he even says he uses the sponges to make a larger pallet. In the end it doesnt matter. I personally use the smaller paper towel and parchment paper one. Also, be sure to boil your parchment paper for 5-10 mins to help open the pores and remove the tiny bit of wax thats on it.

3). Pretty much, yup. Lots of people like to use ceramic tile.

Hey Everyone.

Just thought I would revive this thread for some additional questions?

Regarding files for removing mold lines...

1. I bought a fine grit sanding stick. Basically cardboard shaped like a popsicle stick My big issue with this so far is the stick is too large to fit into small cracks and crevasses. Also, if I'm not careful, it's starts sanding out details like ridges, spikes or bumps. I'm not sure if I'm using it correctly, but it seems to be removing more plastic than my old exacto knife did.

2. I'm thinking of getting a standard Mould line remover. I know you guys also mentioned files. Would those work as a replacement for the mould line remover or are they used for other purposes? What are diamond files? and what files do you normally use? Can one use nail files?

3. Are there any pics or stores that are known for sellign the appropriate files so I know that I'm getting the right thing?

Also

4. Is PVA glue the same as Elmer's white glue?

5. I'm thinkin' about doing some magnetizing too. Might start a seperate thread for this, but I'm aware I'll need a pinning tool. Any advice on what kinds to get?

1) i would just cut the stick into multiple sticks. The amount of pressure you apply takes off the same amount of plastic ie, lots means lots.
It may also be too coarse.

2) use the back side of a hobby knife to save yourself from buying a mould line remover. Files. Have their place, especially when you need to clean up edges after a rough cut. Diamond files use diamond dust on the files if im not mistaken.
Ive used nail files, they tend to get dull quick though. Also, keep your files clean! Otherwise they wont file well.

3) any arts and craft stores should sell what you need. Same with hobby shops. Home depot/ lowes etc should also sell small file sets.

4). PVA glue is standard white glue such as elmers.

5). I have the standard GW pin vice and tool. Had it given to me a while ago as a gift. It works for me, but you may find cheaper ones at a big name craft store

 Dienekes016 wrote:
1) i would just cut the stick into multiple sticks. The amount of pressure you apply takes off the same amount of plastic ie, lots means lots.
It may also be too coarse.

So, you're saying the sanding stick takes off too much plastic in general, or is it just that I'm applying too much pressure?
I'm pretty certain that it's not too coarse, it was a very fine grit sanding stick I bought at a hobby shop.

 Dienekes016 wrote:


2) use the back side of a hobby knife to save yourself from buying a mould line remover. Files. Have their place, especially when you need to clean up edges after a rough cut. Diamond files use diamond dust on the files if im not mistaken.
Ive used nail files, they tend to get dull quick though. Also, keep your files clean! Otherwise they wont file well.

So, files aren't really used for removing mold lines, but rather cleaning up rough spots after you hack up a model?

Its possible that youre putting too much pressure when sanding, yes.

As for files: You can use them to remove mould lines, but i find its easy to over do it and take too much off. I use them for cleaning rough edges more than anything.

@ OP - Hey dude Im in a very similar position

Take it SLOW...
Watch guides. Thin leyers are the shiz...
Invest in some good tools tools. (proper brushes and paints)

Im trying out a wet pallet today I made