Switch Theme:

Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Inspiring SDF-1 Bridge Officer





Mississippi

For the longest time, I've been using apple barrel paints to do my miniature painting. I've bought and tested some of the GW paints to compare, but other than their old brilliant gold I haven't seen enough (or actually any) of a difference to change my painting habits. Before I invest into something like the Vallejo, Reaper or Army Painter paints I'd like to know if I'm really going to see a difference - or if it's all in my technique.

Yeeeeeears ago, when I first started painting, I used Testor's oil enamels. Switching to acrylics really made a ton of difference. So, I am willing to change. I just want to be sure I'll really see a difference and get my money's worth.

Also worth discussing; are there primers better than Krylon? Again, GW's spray primers have left me cold. The last time I used them, I had to strip the primer off and used Krylon instead - with much better results. That said, I sometimes still get a bad can of Krylon (especially Flat White). If there's something more consistant, I'd sure like to know.

It never ends well 
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

Craft paints and acrylic panits made for canvas usually have less dense pigmentation, meaning you'll need more layers of paint to get a solid color (if you want it smooth and not texture-y). Regular acrylic paints are also prized for their ability to create texture (some artists want some on their paintings, after all). The opposite is true with miniature paints: more pigmentation (that's why it's more expensive even when it comes with less paint) and less texture.

Believe me, I've used regular acrylic paints before and I thought they were jsut fine. Now that I've gained a considerable amount of skill compared back then when it comes to painting miniatures, I can totally see the difference in performance.


 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Is there a difference? Yes. Will you notice it? Maybe. The density and size (a finer grind is preferable in almost every case) of the pigment is probably the biggest difference, although the quality of the medium is also an important factor. Both points vary from paint to paint within a line, as well as more generally from brand to brand, whether you're talking about fine art, craft, or model acrylics.

As for primers, I've had good luck with Krylon's Indoor/Outdoor primer, but I've only used the grey. White sprays, regardless of type, seem to be more finicky than other colors and I didn't want any additional hassle for the odd model (I only paint so many metal minis). Before switching largely to airbrushed Vallejo PU primer, I used the Krylon on metals and ColorPlace (Walmart's house brand) flat black (a plain old enamel spray paint) on plastics. Even with the ColorPlace, the black went on beautifully, but the white took some finesse to get a decent finish.

If you want consistency, it's likely going to be more about learning, and then compensating for, the different behaviors of different sprays. "Dud cans" can happen, but they aren't as common as the P&M forum would lead you to believe - much of what gets tossed isn't useless, it's just not compatible with whatever the user has decided is the "right way" to spray.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Shrieking Traitor Sentinel Pilot




New Bedford, MA

My personal preference is Folkart. As is for drybrush and thinned with floor polish for normal use.

I compared a bottle of their red with Citadel's and never turned back.

I notice my posts seem to bring threads to a screeching halt. Considering the content of most threads on dakka, you're welcome. 
   
Made in us
Speed Drybrushing





NC

The Dupli-color sandable primer is the best I've ever used. I got it at an automotive supply store.

Forgive me now! Tomorrow I may no longer feel guilty...




Eyeamrai's Blog of Many Things - http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/621553.page#7329399 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





I've been transitioning between hobby grade (GW and the like) acrylic paint to craft grade (Apple Barrel and the like) hobby paint. I've not noticed any significant difference aside from the lower pigment density.

This just means I need several thin coats rather than one thick coat to do the job, which is how you get the smoothest color gradients anyway. In my opinion, if you can work with craft grade paints there's no reason to upgrade to hobby grade paints.

YMMV, of course.

CHAOS! PANIC! DISORDER!
My job here is done. 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: