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I think it would be kinda cool to have LoD style fire on my Ultramarines, like on the greaves or something. Any ideas on what paints I should use/buy for it? I'd like to keep the paint count pretty low. Also, anyone know of a tutorial on painting fire?
Thanks!

Oooh. That would be heresy dude. Everyone knows the ultrasmurfs would never deviate from the codex astartes.
Rowboat girlyman would turn in his stasis chamber. Lol.
Seriously though I'd love to see a flamed up utramarine army.

As for the paints, averland sunset and mephiston red should be enough as long as you're ok with mixing your own intermediate shades

I recently did a Khador battlebox in freehand flames. Best advice i can offer here is to have your pallet for your flames established (i used gw scab red, gw blood red, army painter lavaorange, and army painter demonic yellow, with my base color being gw abaddon black), and keep your lowlight color on hand to generate negative space as needed. That said, make certain that your base color for the model is opaque, since you're not going to want to add yet more time correcting the inevitable mistakes and cleanups that are kind of inherant to the process.

tomcat31 wrote:
Oooh. That would be heresy dude. Everyone knows the ultrasmurfs would never deviate from the codex astartes.
Rowboat girlyman would turn in his stasis chamber. Lol.
Seriously though I'd love to see a flamed up utramarine army.

As for the paints, averland sunset and mephiston red should be enough as long as you're ok with mixing your own intermediate shades

Thanks!
I already mix my own intermediate shades, so it wouldn't be too difficult for me. All I need to do is go burn $8 on paints . . . (wait for groan) . . . after christmas.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Dronze wrote:
I recently did a Khador battlebox in freehand flames. Best advice i can offer here is to have your pallet for your flames established (i used gw scab red, gw blood red, army painter lavaorange, and army painter demonic yellow, with my base color being gw abaddon black), and keep your lowlight color on hand to generate negative space as needed. That said, make certain that your base color for the model is opaque, since you're not going to want to add yet more time correcting the inevitable mistakes and cleanups that are kind of inherant to the process.

Do you have a picture? I'd be interested in how it turns out. Thanks for the advice!

Averland and Mephiston are both a little on the dark side, although Averland is really nice to lay down to make Mephiston look bright. I would consider the one of the two brighter yellows (flash gitz or yriel) to be the "bright" yellow. Less importantly, evil sunz scarlet is a nice bright red.

Mephiston is a core paint though. It's one of the best red paints on the market (in my opinion, *the* best red paint), far, far superior to anything Vallejo makes. It actually makes basecoating red not horribly painful.

i didn't like Mephiston Red when i tried it, Talys...
too flat a color...
just goes to show that everyone is different...
my trick for basecoating red is to use P3 Sanguine Base first...
it covers black so easily...

for flames, SirSterile, do you want realistic flames, or old school hot rod flames???
old school flames are easier to paint, but very simplistic...
realistic flames are a bit more involved...

old school flames:



realistic flames:



a red and a yellow paint will be fine, but you will want a darker tone of each color to basecoat first, to save yourself the headache of trying get smooth solid coverage with a bright red and yellow...
for example, all of my yellows are painted over a mid-brown tone, and the reds over a burgundy tone...
although, if you are painting over a mid-blue basecoat for Ultras, you may be able to skip that step...

cheers
jah

 jah-joshua wrote:
i didn't like Mephiston Red when i tried it, Talys...
too flat a color...
just goes to show that everyone is different...
my trick for basecoating red is to use P3 Sanguine Base first...
it covers black so easily...

for flames, SirSterile, do you want realistic flames, or old school hot rod flames???
old school flames are easier to paint, but very simplistic...
realistic flames are a bit more involved...

old school flames:



realistic flames:



a red and a yellow paint will be fine, but you will want a darker tone of each color to basecoat first, to save yourself the headache of trying get smooth solid coverage with a bright red and yellow...
for example, all of my yellows are painted over a mid-brown tone, and the reds over a burgundy tone...
although, if you are painting over a mid-blue basecoat for Ultras, you may be able to skip that step...

cheers
jah

I'm looking for something similar to that. I'm looking a little bit more towards the old-school flames, but I want a little bit more of a gradient between the red and yellow.
Thanks for the advice!

yeah, the first Salamanders Marine is a bit simplistic...
i was trying to work on a style, in 2001, where i didn't have to mix any colors...
i abandoned that idea when i got more serious about competition, and started mixing a lot more transitional shades for my layers...

for the flames on the LotD, you will have to do a bit of blending, instead of layering, and it should turn out like the studio models...

good luck...

cheers
jah

I would be careful using red when painting flames, it is actually quite rare. try sticking primarily to white, yellows and oranges, and if you use red, be conservative with it,

another thing that always takes me away from fire paint jobs that I see, fire goes light to dark, not dark to light, so the bottom of a flame should be white or near white, then will merge into yellow then orange. that is why that salamanders model looks so off to me.

here is a link that does a much better job of explaining fire coloring and effects than I can.

http://hot-lead.org/advance/fire_theory.htm

In the end it's your model, so paint it how you like it, just my two cents.

hope this helps.

 wandering0ne wrote:
I would be careful using red when painting flames, it is actually quite rare. try sticking primarily to white, yellows and oranges, and if you use red, be conservative with it,

another thing that always takes me away from fire paint jobs that I see, fire goes light to dark, not dark to light, so the bottom of a flame should be white or near white, then will merge into yellow then orange. that is why that salamanders model looks so off to me.

here is a link that does a much better job of explaining fire coloring and effects than I can.

http://hot-lead.org/advance/fire_theory.htm

In the end it's your model, so paint it how you like it, just my two cents.

hope this helps.

Thanks! I'm going to keep this in mind as I paint my next squad with fire.

@wandering0ne: hot-lead does have the right idea for realistic flames...
Lazlo is a good painter...

keep in mind, the first Salamanders Marine was painting in the standard GW, more akin to old school hot rod flames, just like the LotD studio scheme that the OP posted a picture of...
my second example showed the more realistic option, where you can see that red is not used, but orange, yellow, and white is instead, with the white concentrated in the bottom of the flames, just like the article you linked...

it is a stylistic choice to do old school flames like GW does, even if you personally think it is "wrong"...
that was the whole point of showing the painted examples of boh ends of the spectrum...
old school style versus new school realism...


cheers
jah