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Made in us
Ork Boy Hangin' off a Trukk





Silicon Valley, CA

Hi everyone,

We just finished a first (very basic level) magnetizing project on our Dreadnought and Morkanaut. For the Dreadnought it was a reconstruction project (we had glued on the wrong arm -- and it was a bit rough on the model getting the arm back off again -- magnets seemed like the only reconstruction choice). In the case of the Morkanaut, we were annoyed with the doors swinging open.

Looking at what we've done and comparing that to some of the masterful works we've seen in tutorials and such, a few quick questions if anyone has a moment or two:

- We used magnets which were about 4mm in diameter. Is this normal? Or do people usually use smaller ones?
- Ours didn't have a painted side. Seems like that would have helped to keep alignment.
- Do people tend to prefer magnet-to-iron? Or, magnet-to-magnet?
- What is the trick to drilling holes for the magnets which have a nice cylindrical profile? Are there bits for those hand-drills which are shaped like that?

Here's our blog write-up with photos for viewing our beginner's attempts! http://battlegaming1.blogspot.com/2014/12/warhammer-40k-magnetizing-models-we.html

Many thanks
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

I used 4mm dia x 4mm deep magnets. I drilled holes with a 4mm wood bit:


You drill a small hole first then this bit stays true.
I managed to drill the holes by hand. To help get the depth right you can wrap some masking tape around the bit.

I used 2 magnets per hold. I didn't manage to get the polarity the same on 2 of the weapon arms - I have 2 dreads and the left arms can only fit on the original model (ie I can't swap them).
I will be trying steel screws next time.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Here's one of them:


You can see one arm sticks out a bit - I got the depth wrong & had to use a washer as a spacer.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/12/12 00:55:45


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Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Savage Khorne Berserker Biker






I usually use magnet to magnet unless it's a smaller part. I use the same MM magnets as the drill so they fit snug with Green Stuff and Super Glue.

This is my Magnetized Hellbrute. Trust me it was a lot of work to get the cables to line up on and off for each variant.







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http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/594118.page

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Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

 BattleGamer wrote:
- We used magnets which were about 4mm in diameter. Is this normal? Or do people usually use smaller ones?
I use smaller ones, 1.56mm x 1.56mm, 1mm x 3mm (long cylinder), 3mm x 2mm, 2mm x 3mm
- Ours didn't have a painted side. Seems like that would have helped to keep alignment.
You can make a polarizing bar - get an old bit of sprue, drill out both ends and put magnets of opposite polarity, spray it white/black and there you go - white ends always go into arms, black end always goes into body.
- Do people tend to prefer magnet-to-iron? Or, magnet-to-magnet?
I always go magnet to magnet, it seems like it would be stronger - particularly with really small magnets. Polarity is a big problem though.
- What is the trick to drilling holes for the magnets which have a nice cylindrical profile? Are there bits for those hand-drills which are shaped like that?
Yes, the 1.56mm magnets I have are the smallest (and strongest) I have, and there is a drill bit that fits it
Here's our blog write-up with photos for viewing our beginner's attempts! http://battlegaming1.blogspot.com/2014/12/warhammer-40k-magnetizing-models-we.html
Nice, I will check it out. I magnetise way too much, I have a rhino I am just about to finish which has side doors that open (and lock magnetically), held in place with magnets, a back door that does the same thing, interchangeable roof panels to make it a whirlwind (and accompanying side sponsons to magnetise in), and interchangeable main guns for the whirlwind, as well as magnets for smoke launchers/gunners/bulldozer bars/whatever else you can imagine. It made the build take sooo much longer, and I ruined the interior with oil washing like a noob anyway


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Just reading your blog now, I will offer you the criticism you didn't ask for

You don't need any of the plasticard buffers you used, specifically not for arms - drill a magnet into the arm pin, and arm itself - if at all, the arms aren't going to fall off. It also has created some unsightly gaps and leans on the parts.

I have been magnetising AOBR marines, so tiny magnets into their backpacks/arms/guns so I can disassemble and repaint them as my ~test marines~, that would be much easier than the dreadnought, and I think you have just created more work for yourself (I realise I am a hypocrite)

With smaller magnets, you can also hide them a lot easier in detail. Drill them an extra bit down, greenstuff over the top, sand flat - invisible. You do need really strong magnets for this though, as you lose power with distance.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/12/12 03:43:13


 
   
 
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