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I've got a few questions relating to the general use of a compressor.

I've recently gotten the Iwata Powerjet Pro, and am just curious how I should go about letting all the air out of it at the end of a use. Shooting it out through the airbrush takes for ever. I could let it run out of the moisture traps (the little glass things), I could use the little pull release valve at the front, or I could unscrew a valve on the tank at the back. I want to release the pressure in a way that won't pose any harm to the compressor.

Also, I've heard that water can build up in the tank, leading to problems down the line. How would you suggest I reduce/ eliminate this?

Finally, any simple tips for compressor care would be welcome.

For reference, this is the compressor that I'm using:

http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/compressors/power-jet-pro/

I've already looked over the instruction manual, but these questions aren't directly answered in it, and I was wondering if some knowledgable people could help me out.

Thanks!

Turn compressor off.
Shoot air through brush.
Done.

That easy, eh?

Thanks man

Wait, wait. You can't just shoot air through brush to get rid of water in the tank.

At the bottom of the tank (turn the compressor on its side) there should be a little knob with an O-Ring. Twist that off, and water will drain out.

Just leave the compressor upright overnight. Any time the compressor is used, and won't be used for a while, you should let it drain. Put a paper towel underneath to catch the water.

If you don't do this, rust and other crap will accumulate in the tank.

RTFM...seriously.

How to release the pressure?

Looking at the parts diagram, I would say - loosen the pressure release valve. Mounted on the bottom of the moisture trap (no doubt with a secondary purpose to drain the trap). Most likely the little pull release valve you refer to. Very fast...the valve can freeze up for a bit depending on how much air is coming out. Leave it pulled (or repull) and it will defrost and continue letting off the pressure in short order.

How to drain fluid from the tank?

Again, parts diagram, Drain Valve (airtank). Some will have an O-ring or other seal, others are metal, to metal. Might need a tool...might be a knurled knob that you can twist by hand.

I actually open that with a bit of pressure in the tank to blow the water clear, then will leave it open for a bit till the tank no longer is cold to touch. My compressor is powered pretty much all the time though...so it is a bit different than most people.

You will find than almost all compressors have more or less the same components...from the little airbrush compressors to big industrial ones. Chances are better than not - that the name means exactly what it says it is. Release Valve, drain...

Alright, thanks for your input man. That's pretty much what I've been doing, I just wanted to make sure that I was getting it right and not doing anything dumb without realizing.

Nyoom wrote:
That easy, eh?

Thanks man

Oopps missed the part of the moisture trap.(My bad) As Sean OBrrien said most compressors manuals tell you what you need to drain the liquid.

By the way, the moisture trap is clear, so you can see if there's water in it.

Every time you're finished airbrushing, you should release the pressure, and you do so on that particular moisture trap by pushing up against the bottom nipple. There should be a little collar and spring-loaded contraption, by which you can gently tug (upwards). In the process it also clears out any water in the moisture trap.

Even if the moisture trap has no liquid present, there may still be water in the bottom of your tank.

Either depresses the nipple on the bottom of your moisture trap or shoot the air out of your airbrush to drain any pressure. Unscrew the knob on the bottom of your tank and be prepared with some paper towel for some water to come out. I will leave mine for a few days with the drain plug out to allow it to dry out. Even with these steps followed every few weeks, I still get a bit of rusty colored water.

I own two compressors (identical) and toggle back and forth between them during a session. If the manifold is beyond warm to touch, it's time to let it cool down.