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I'm trying to do a 40k case mod (first ever - high chance of it being a weee bit less than perfect) for this mother http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUZVNHU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (orange version).

I've only ever really painted with citadel paints on miniatures before. So I have a lot of the stuff, and I'm comfortable with it. It's cheap, easy, and I happen to have found everything I needed for the Citadel Spray Gun yesterday ( http://a142.idata.over-blog.com/560x358/1/97/41/37/spraygunparts.jpg ). I've never used that thing before, either.

So is it a bad idea to go about it this way? Given this thread, I'm pretty sure you guys would recommend to not bother with this spray gun http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/446474.page , but I mean...I have it. So is it really worth the $100+ to get something better?

Also I bought this clear primer because I already liked the color of the PC case as a base coat http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007UAXJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So yeah, that's what I got. I'm going for an ancient Mechanicus logic engine sort of theme (I'll add some aesthetic wires and a giant Mechanicus logo later I believe), and my fiancee is sort of debating with me as to what would look better - making it an old bronze sort of color and then making it rusted looking on top, or just give this a real martian red rusty look from what it naturally has. Not sure what colors to use, so I'm open to any and all suggestions.

Let me know of any general tips or literally anything you guys feel like sharing - I'm a total noob at this and I want to have this $2,000+ custom PC done by the end of January!

In theory it should work fine. The only potential downside is that acrylic paints don't hold up to wear very well but if you give the final product a really heavy clear coat it should be reasonably well protected.

Don't use the spray thing, buy a proper airbrush instead.

Clean the case really well first & then use a good primer.
If the case is glossy you might want to give it a light once-over with wet&dry paper.

Dullspork wrote:In theory it should work fine. The only potential downside is that acrylic paints don't hold up to wear very well but if you give the final product a really heavy clear coat it should be reasonably well protected.

So just a real thick, even layer of paint to finish with? (And what would be better than acrylic paints?)

Matthew wrote:Don't use the spray thing, buy a proper airbrush instead.

You mean I should buy something this then and then use the citadel paints I have? http://www.amazon.com/0-3mm-Gravity-Dual-Action-Airbrush-Paint/dp/B005H3FMBW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420139390&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush Would I also need to buy it with http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-10-Ft-Braided-Airbrush-Hose/dp/B003Q0VZJ6/ref=pd_bxgy_ac_img_y and http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Airbrushes-Airbrush-Exclusively-TCP/dp/B001N3IX3Y/ref=pd_bxgy_ac_img_z ?

bubber wrote:Clean the case really well first & then use a good primer.
If the case is glossy you might want to give it a light once-over with wet&dry paper.

I'm hoping the primer I linked in my original post is good enough - let me know if you think otherwise. Wet & dry paper... You mean I should pick something like this up? http://www.amazon.com/3M-32044-Imperial-Wetordry-Sheet/dp/B0002MSY90/ref=pd_sim_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VEEBBS2ZRP8W9FFREHA

I imagine it would be similar to trying to paint a car. That is, if you want a good smooth result there'll be lots and lots of sanding between thin coats of primer/basecoat/varnish. If you don't care if it comes out orange peely, it'll be easier.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Netsurfer733 wrote:

Dullspork wrote:In theory it should work fine. The only potential downside is that acrylic paints don't hold up to wear very well but if you give the final product a really heavy clear coat it should be reasonably well protected.

So just a real thick, even layer of paint to finish with? (And what would be better than acrylic paints?)

Definitely don't put on a thick layer, it will be liable to drip and will orange peel on you. Build up a thick layer by applying several thin coats.

Personally, I'd just grab a few rattle cans. You'll find the tiny 12ml pots of GW paint really don't last very long when you start painting large surfaces like that. Go to an automotive or DIY shop and get yourself some rattle can primer and coloured paint, then some top coat to protect it. Do thin coats, follow the instructions on the cans for how long to wait between coats, maybe even watch some videos of people repainting cars with rattle cans to get an idea of technique. Some places will even match paint for you and then put it in to a rattle can for you.

If you don't want to go rattle cans you can definitely spray paints from pots on it. Just for the sake of testing how it would turn out I sprayed a dish scrubbing brush with Vallejo's acrylics. I sanded to roughen the surface, used the Vallejo surface primer through my airbrush, painted it a red from the VMA range and then did about 5 or 6 thin coats of gloss varnish through the airbrush. It takes several days to properly cure, if you try handling it before then you'll likely scratch it, but after it's fully cured it has actually held up quite well. But still, that was plastic, not metal, if I were spraying metal I'd use an automotive primer rather than Vallejo's airbrush primer.

Much like painting a car...in fact, I tend to use car paints for painting computer cases and other electronics.

The sand paper you linked to is too fine to scuff the surface. You will want something in the 220-300 grit for the prep to prime stage. 2000 would be used to polish out your varnish coats (just before rubbing compounds).

For spraying large areas - airbrushes are limited in use. They don't have a large enough spray pattern to really do the job well. Good quality rattle can will give you fine results - should be able to find a selection at a local car parts place (Autozone, O'Reilly, Advanced...).

Fully disassemble the case, remove any parts that need special care (power supplies, switches, fans...). Set those off to the side. Wash and scrub everything with a degreaser. Wear disposable gloves to prevent getting oils from your fingers on the parts while you work. Determine good side/bad side for everything (good side is what you will see most often - bad side you wont) - it will determine the order which you work.

If you want a gloss shine, you will want to smooth everything. This will often require sanding the textured surface of plastic and rough paint bare. If not - you may be able to skip that - though, it looks a bit like butt IMO.

Once ready, go over everything with a quality primer. Paint the bad side first - let dry - flip - paint the good side. After the primer has cured, go over everything with some 220-320 grit. You want to remove any runs or irregularities in your primer coat. If you sand through...reapply primer, resand.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your first coat of paint with a rattle can or spray gun (not airbrush...). Let dry, wet sand with 320.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your second coat of paint with a rattle can or spray gun (not airbrush...). Let dry, wet sand with 320.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your third coat of paint with a rattle can or spray gun (not airbrush...). Let dry, wet sand with 600.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your varnish in the sheen you prefer.

If you are going for a gloss look, you may want to do two or three coats of varnish, with a 600 grit sanding between each coat. For a high sheen, step up to the 2000 (using something like 800, 1200 then 2000 on the way). After 2000, use a rubbing compound and buff till you see your reflection as you like.

Don't know about the primer but an alternative to acrylic paint is enamel.
Acrylic should be fine.
The major concern is the heat generated by the computer.
Do you have an old one which you can try on 1st?

This is all starting to seem like a bit more of a work/money/time investment than I was hoping for now, heh... So let me start by asking - are there any pc case 'skins' or perhaps old rusted looking things I could cut out and just tape or stick to any surface like a PC case? Or are there any services that might paint this for me? I just want to know if you guys have any suggestions before I start deciding on whether or not I want to do this at all! (I'm alternatively just thinking of slapping a bunch of mechanicus wires and then the mechanicus symbol atop it just in case anyone was curious, as a last resort.)

AllSeeingSkink wrote:I imagine it would be similar to trying to paint a car. That is, if you want a good smooth result there'll be lots and lots of sanding between thin coats of primer/basecoat/varnish. If you don't care if it comes out orange peely, it'll be easier.

That is very good to hear I can't say that I do particularly care a great deal because I really have no idea about any of this. I have no idea how 'bad' it could come out, lol.

Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Netsurfer733 wrote:

Dullspork wrote:In theory it should work fine. The only potential downside is that acrylic paints don't hold up to wear very well but if you give the final product a really heavy clear coat it should be reasonably well protected.

So just a real thick, even layer of paint to finish with? (And what would be better than acrylic paints?)

Definitely don't put on a thick layer, it will be liable to drip and will orange peel on you. Build up a thick layer by applying several thin coats.

Personally, I'd just grab a few rattle cans. You'll find the tiny 12ml pots of GW paint really don't last very long when you start painting large surfaces like that. Go to an automotive or DIY shop and get yourself some rattle can primer and coloured paint, then some top coat to protect it. Do thin coats, follow the instructions on the cans for how long to wait between coats, maybe even watch some videos of people repainting cars with rattle cans to get an idea of technique. Some places will even match paint for you and then put it in to a rattle can for you.

If you don't want to go rattle cans you can definitely spray paints from pots on it. Just for the sake of testing how it would turn out I sprayed a dish scrubbing brush with Vallejo's acrylics. I sanded to roughen the surface, used the Vallejo surface primer through my airbrush, painted it a red from the VMA range and then did about 5 or 6 thin coats of gloss varnish through the airbrush. It takes several days to properly cure, if you try handling it before then you'll likely scratch it, but after it's fully cured it has actually held up quite well. But still, that was plastic, not metal, if I were spraying metal I'd use an automotive primer rather than Vallejo's airbrush primer.

Thanks - I won't do a single thick layer now regardless; if anything, the smaller, thinner layers - but multiple of them. Appreciate that tip.

Automotive rattle cans or spray paints from pots... There is a concern from someone I know about the space I'm in. I have what is just over 2 cubic meters of space on my patio, which has been fine to use in the past for spraying black primer on games workshop models (with citadel black primer, that is). But would this be any worse in terms of coloring the walls/celing of this small 2 cubic meter space of my apartment complex? This is a really important question, because I don't think I can do it if it would get me bad looks from management. If anyone can answer that one, I'd appreciate it. (I'm basically just asking if any of these sprays might be worse than, say, the citadel black primer spray).

Sean_OBrien wrote:Much like painting a car...in fact, I tend to use car paints for painting computer cases and other electronics.

The sand paper you linked to is too fine to scuff the surface. You will want something in the 220-300 grit for the prep to prime stage. 2000 would be used to polish out your varnish coats (just before rubbing compounds).

For spraying large areas - airbrushes are limited in use. They don't have a large enough spray pattern to really do the job well. Good quality rattle can will give you fine results - should be able to find a selection at a local car parts place (Autozone, O'Reilly, Advanced...).

Fully disassemble the case, remove any parts that need special care (power supplies, switches, fans...). Set those off to the side. Wash and scrub everything with a degreaser. Wear disposable gloves to prevent getting oils from your fingers on the parts while you work. Determine good side/bad side for everything (good side is what you will see most often - bad side you wont) - it will determine the order which you work.

If you want a gloss shine, you will want to smooth everything. This will often require sanding the textured surface of plastic and rough paint bare. If not - you may be able to skip that - though, it looks a bit like butt IMO.

Once ready, go over everything with a quality primer. Paint the bad side first - let dry - flip - paint the good side. After the primer has cured, go over everything with some 220-320 grit. You want to remove any runs or irregularities in your primer coat. If you sand through...reapply primer, resand.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your first coat of paint with a rattle can or spray gun (not airbrush...). Let dry, wet sand with 320.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your second coat of paint with a rattle can or spray gun (not airbrush...). Let dry, wet sand with 320.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your third coat of paint with a rattle can or spray gun (not airbrush...). Let dry, wet sand with 600.

Wipe everything down with a cloth wet with something like alcohol or mineral spirits to remove dust and other junk (as well as finger oils...since you probably touched it without gloves at some point). Apply your varnish in the sheen you prefer.

If you are going for a gloss look, you may want to do two or three coats of varnish, with a 600 grit sanding between each coat. For a high sheen, step up to the 2000 (using something like 800, 1200 then 2000 on the way). After 2000, use a rubbing compound and buff till you see your reflection as you like.

Appreciate what you said about the sand paper. Would something like this be better? http://www.amazon.com/3M-30272-Purple-Sanding-Hookit/dp/B003XNE124/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1420272000&sr=8-7&keywords=sand+paper+250+grit (I'm hoping I can find something less expensive than that though - any ideas?)

That is also a lot of info you gave - thanks a lot. I'm going for a crappy, rusted sort of look (either rusted martian red, or bronze with or without rust, or maybe some old crappy steel-looking thing. Hell, maybe something just plain black and ancient looking). Basically I want to give the impression that this is some ancient, ancient stuff that the mechanicum is using. Given that...do I really need to pay attention to all this sanding/coating etc.? Wouldn't it just be better to just prime it and kinda just go at it if all the sanding will just help with smoothing/glossing it over? I could see gloss going over well if I want to make it a nice bronze or something, but otherwise I wouldn't want it given what I'm going for, right? That's a serious question

bubber wrote:Don't know about the primer but an alternative to acrylic paint is enamel.
Acrylic should be fine.
The major concern is the heat generated by the computer.
Do you have an old one which you can try on 1st?

I do...but I'm trying to sell it Enamel though? I mean I expect my computer to be decently well ventilated and I don't think the outsides of PC cases get hot at all, right? (I obviously wouldn't paint around the vents) I'll start feeling my fiancee's powerhouse computer when it's running stuff soon. Maybe it gets hot on the side with the motherboard.

So I'm still super into this guys - thank you SO much for all this info so far. I think I'm that much closer to making this happen (can't wait for when I get all the parts now!). I think next up is a stop to Autozone as you guys get back to me...

(And oh yes - I will absolutely be posting pics here when it's done if I can get this thing off the ground!)

- Everything Sean said.

I know that it sounds like a ton of work (and it is quite a lot), but it's got to be done like this; otherwise, it will look like poo and get on your nerves.

I've done the odd bit of car repair and whilst it's sooo tempting so skip a stage (or even a grade of wet&dry), the imperfections just get magnified the further you go if you skip on something.

I know where my talents lie and it definitely isn't car repairs!

It really depends on how you want the finish to look. I brought up car painting because I figured what you want is closer to a car-type finish than a miniature-type finish.

If you want a really nice gloss finish that is tough as nails (like a car) then you want to follow the instructions of painting a car which is very laborious.

If you don't care about a bit of orange peel or even better yet if you want a satin finish rather than a gloss finish, you can skip a lot of the sanding steps. I built a PC for one of my mate's recently and it was orange and had a rough satin finish anyway, so maybe that's what you want? If you do, it'll be sooo much easier, lol.

If all you want is a rough satin finish (or want glossy but don't care if it's perfect) then just sand and clean the case and then spray your primer, wait the correct amount of time (varies depending on the paint), spray your base coat, aim to do maybe 3 thin layers, waiting the time indicated on the cans before recoating, then hit it with several thin layers of gloss varnish/topcoat/clear coat (for strength) done in the same fashion and finish it off with a coat or two of satin varnish. I wouldn't worry about the in between sanding steps other than the initial sand to make sure the primer sticks well. I've found satin finishes to be far more forgiving than gloss finishes. If you only ever do thin coats you won't really need to sand or if you do sand it won't be nearly as painful.

You won't get that smooth glassy like finish if you don't sand in between coats and then buff the hell out of the top coat... but if you can live without that you'll save yourself a hell of a lot of time. Often you see cars straight from the factory that are orange peely anyway

If you're going for a rusty look, have you considered vinyls or stickers? For example, this car is actually black:



http://www.vinylwraps.com.au/news.html

So you might be to find something you like in sticker/vinyl form.

Some people actually like rusty looking cars for some strange reason (), to achieve the effect they sand back the cars to bare metal, allow them to rust, then paint them with an inhibitor and spray a clear coat to protect it. This of course requires that what you are working with is actually steel and not stainless steel or aluminium, so that it can actually rust a bit for you. You can seal the rust with products like penetrol or ankor wax (you can paint over penetrol with a varnish, ankor wax is more just a preserver, you can't paint over it). Have a google for "rat rod patina" or "preserve patina" to get some ideas (if you can find any past all the crazy people bitching about how it's wrong to want a car to look rusty ).

Or you could practice your tank weathering skills and have a crack at painting your own rust design and then just seal it with a decent top coat.

I'm going for a crappy, rusted sort of look (either rusted martian red, or bronze with or without rust, or maybe some old crappy steel-looking thing. Hell, maybe something just plain black and ancient looking). Basically I want to give the impression that this is some ancient, ancient stuff that the mechanicum is using. Given that...do I really need to pay attention to all this sanding/coating etc.? Wouldn't it just be better to just prime it and kinda just go at it if all the sanding will just help with smoothing/glossing it over? I could see gloss going over well if I want to make it a nice bronze or something, but otherwise I wouldn't want it given what I'm going for, right? That's a serious question

Making something that is smooth look rough is a lot easier than making something rough look smooth. When you paint, especially painting larger objects, the first few times - you will often get runs. Runs don't look old - they just look sloppy. Sanding deals with that well enough. The layers also are to build up an even color without a lot of build. You could slather it down in one coat - but the thick coat may have curing and sagging issues. If you get your base coat done well, you can dull it up with mattes, apply various effects like the vinyls linked to already or leave it as is. If the base coat is not done well, you can't easily shine it up, any defects will telegraph through the vinyl and if you chance your mind on your grand vision...you may well need to start all over by sanding it back down to bare metal.

In terms of making it look old - I honestly wouldn't bother with paint...or the case you linked to (but that wasn't the question, I have a bad habit of answering questions asked...no matter how bad an idea it might be in the long run). For a bit more money, but a lot less work, you can take a regular case to a sheet metal shop and have them copy the panels (more or less) out of something like copper or brass sheet stock. Once you have your panels in a metal that ages well - a trip to a crafty store to pick up some patina solution and then go to town. Grab some scrap metal from the metal shop to practice on...

Once you get a patina that is suitably old looking, lock it in place with a metal lacquer (they make finishes specifically for this - adhere a bit better than regular varnish). Hit up an electronics supply hour to get your switches (aircraft style are pretty slick for this sort of thing) and rewire the controls to a new - old looking control panel (take a look at some of the switch boards from 1920s and 1930s era cars and airplanes).

You can get a rather good bit involved - just google something like "steampunk computer case". Lots of inspiration, and the only limit is really how much you want to put into it. You don't necessarily need to spend a lot of money to do it either - but if you reduce the money spent, you will generally have to increase the time.

Chillreaper wrote:- Everything Sean said.

I know that it sounds like a ton of work (and it is quite a lot), but it's got to be done like this; otherwise, it will look like poo and get on your nerves.

I've done the odd bit of car repair and whilst it's sooo tempting so skip a stage (or even a grade of wet&dry), the imperfections just get magnified the further you go if you skip on something.

I know where my talents lie and it definitely isn't car repairs!

I'm steeling myself to prepare for the work as I type, lol.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:It really depends on how you want the finish to look. I brought up car painting because I figured what you want is closer to a car-type finish than a miniature-type finish.

If you want a really nice gloss finish that is tough as nails (like a car) then you want to follow the instructions of painting a car which is very laborious.

If you don't care about a bit of orange peel or even better yet if you want a satin finish rather than a gloss finish, you can skip a lot of the sanding steps. I built a PC for one of my mate's recently and it was orange and had a rough satin finish anyway, so maybe that's what you want? If you do, it'll be sooo much easier, lol.

If all you want is a rough satin finish (or want glossy but don't care if it's perfect) then just sand and clean the case and then spray your primer, wait the correct amount of time (varies depending on the paint), spray your base coat, aim to do maybe 3 thin layers, waiting the time indicated on the cans before recoating, then hit it with several thin layers of gloss varnish/topcoat/clear coat (for strength) done in the same fashion and finish it off with a coat or two of satin varnish. I wouldn't worry about the in between sanding steps other than the initial sand to make sure the primer sticks well. I've found satin finishes to be far more forgiving than gloss finishes. If you only ever do thin coats you won't really need to sand or if you do sand it won't be nearly as painful.

You won't get that smooth glassy like finish if you don't sand in between coats and then buff the hell out of the top coat... but if you can live without that you'll save yourself a hell of a lot of time. Often you see cars straight from the factory that are orange peely anyway

If you're going for a rusty look, have you considered vinyls or stickers? For example, this car is actually black:



http://www.vinylwraps.com.au/news.html

So you might be to find something you like in sticker/vinyl form.

Some people actually like rusty looking cars for some strange reason (), to achieve the effect they sand back the cars to bare metal, allow them to rust, then paint them with an inhibitor and spray a clear coat to protect it. This of course requires that what you are working with is actually steel and not stainless steel or aluminium, so that it can actually rust a bit for you. You can seal the rust with products like penetrol or ankor wax (you can paint over penetrol with a varnish, ankor wax is more just a preserver, you can't paint over it). Have a google for "rat rod patina" or "preserve patina" to get some ideas (if you can find any past all the crazy people bitching about how it's wrong to want a car to look rusty ).

Or you could practice your tank weathering skills and have a crack at painting your own rust design and then just seal it with a decent top coat.

*googles Satin finishes* Yep, totally happy with that! Hahah.

I guess that's what I'll do if I paint then! Thanks for that I'll just pick up any sand paper if I go with the method you cited for painting if I happen to go that route? (Also I'm not 100% sure how possible the patina situation might be given the material of the thing...but we'll see)

Your links about vinyl got me quite excited for a time....but then basically all I could find on the internet for it was this sad little page http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-vinyl-wrap-graphics-modding-films-sticker/ . This would be PERFECT for me if I could find the right sort of thing befitting ancient Mechanicus machinery...but clearly I'm not going to find that from those 4 choices, lol. Do you know of anywhere that has a bigger selection of these 'films' so I can cut away what I need and just stick them on?

Sean_OBrien wrote:

I'm going for a crappy, rusted sort of look (either rusted martian red, or bronze with or without rust, or maybe some old crappy steel-looking thing. Hell, maybe something just plain black and ancient looking). Basically I want to give the impression that this is some ancient, ancient stuff that the mechanicum is using. Given that...do I really need to pay attention to all this sanding/coating etc.? Wouldn't it just be better to just prime it and kinda just go at it if all the sanding will just help with smoothing/glossing it over? I could see gloss going over well if I want to make it a nice bronze or something, but otherwise I wouldn't want it given what I'm going for, right? That's a serious question

Making something that is smooth look rough is a lot easier than making something rough look smooth. When you paint, especially painting larger objects, the first few times - you will often get runs. Runs don't look old - they just look sloppy. Sanding deals with that well enough. The layers also are to build up an even color without a lot of build. You could slather it down in one coat - but the thick coat may have curing and sagging issues. If you get your base coat done well, you can dull it up with mattes, apply various effects like the vinyls linked to already or leave it as is. If the base coat is not done well, you can't easily shine it up, any defects will telegraph through the vinyl and if you chance your mind on your grand vision...you may well need to start all over by sanding it back down to bare metal.

In terms of making it look old - I honestly wouldn't bother with paint...or the case you linked to (but that wasn't the question, I have a bad habit of answering questions asked...no matter how bad an idea it might be in the long run). For a bit more money, but a lot less work, you can take a regular case to a sheet metal shop and have them copy the panels (more or less) out of something like copper or brass sheet stock. Once you have your panels in a metal that ages well - a trip to a crafty store to pick up some patina solution and then go to town. Grab some scrap metal from the metal shop to practice on...

Once you get a patina that is suitably old looking, lock it in place with a metal lacquer (they make finishes specifically for this - adhere a bit better than regular varnish). Hit up an electronics supply hour to get your switches (aircraft style are pretty slick for this sort of thing) and rewire the controls to a new - old looking control panel (take a look at some of the switch boards from 1920s and 1930s era cars and airplanes).

You can get a rather good bit involved - just google something like "steampunk computer case". Lots of inspiration, and the only limit is really how much you want to put into it. You don't necessarily need to spend a lot of money to do it either - but if you reduce the money spent, you will generally have to increase the time.

Sanding back down to bare metal...indeed; man quite a bit to think about if I do go that painting route.

Oh I'm very glad you said that about the case actually. I just opened the shipping container today but I didn't open the box it was contained in within that. So might I ask what case you would have gone for? Why is this one insufficient? I might very well return it based on your word if I can find something you think would be better.

That sheet metal shop is pretty wicked o.o For a moment I almost read it as though you were saying that I could just buy some sheet metal of bronze (aha - eureka, I think I just stumbled upon what I wanted as I was searching for examples for you!) of the aged bronze look/texture https://www.google.com/search?q=bronze&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=5mCsVNqiAcSdNom2gvAB&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1133&bih=855#tbm=isch&q=aged+bronze+texture&revid=352339391 and then actually 'plate' it on top of it, like with big obvious bolts or something mechanicum-esque.

(Heh - as I showed that to someone just now, they said they were thinking more gothic iron http://previews.123rf.com/images/sumners/sumners0812/sumners081200011/4009786-image-of-black-iron-gothic-security-doors-doors-door-metal.jpg but I'm admittedly having a harder time seeing that despite how I could definitely go for something more black. Let me know your guys' thoughts on that one)

That patina idea doesn't seem so bad though now when you put it like that - but I don't want it to turn green or anything ( https://www.google.com/search?q=patina+on+bronze&espv=2&biw=1133&bih=855&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vGOsVIC3HtDfggTYyoGoDw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg ) . More like my first link about the aged bronze, if it can do that.

I don't think I'm going to want any switches etc on the outside. Just the pure aged bronze metal look (likely that anyway), big-ish wires (probably on the back-top-side-corners so as to avoid blocking its 'breathing room' and keep its machine spirit pleased), and the mechanicum symbol I believe. I'm happy to leave this as a sort of hybrid standard PC case but one that was found 30,000 years into the future and jury rigged to work again in some form, so I'm happy enough if it still resembles its 'old' self XD


Last but not least in a general reply to all of this, I've realized that I could use a sketching of this as I think I mentioned, so I've begun that, but I'm not having much luck so far. I've only sketched like 4 things in my life, lol. But hopefully that will help things move along a bit. But I still have that lingering important question - will any of these car-sprays or what not that aren't made for citadel miniatures (obviously) potentially paint my walls if I'm in a tightly enclosed space, if you get my meaning?

I wouldn't have gone for any case in particular...just used one from my graveyard to locate the mounting holes as needed for the MoBo, PS and related items. The actual case I would do from scratch out of the metal I want to use (maybe salvage the inside frames of an otherwise dead computer depending on how open/closed it would be to people looking inside it).

If you are not too confident with working metal or otherwise rule out that idea - there are plenty of foil suppliers as well.

http://www.colorcopper.com/color-copper-sheets-light-36-gauge/

I have used their materials in the past for several different things. The "distressed patina dark" might be right up your alley in terms of the general appearance. 36 gauge is a bit like really thick aluminum foil. You can cut it relatively easily using a good pair of scissors, apply using contact cement. A 3x4 sheet should be enough to do a computer case. Other companies sell similar materials in different metals (copper is nice because of how soft it is though - easy to cut, bend, stretch and shrink around complex shapes...).

Wrap the case (whichever case you prefer) and use hammered iron hardware to accent it for a suitably aged look.

Depending on how the case is made - certain steel parts can be blackened too. Black wax, a torch, and a bit of effort (should be a tutorial or two on one of the crafty sites that cover turning iron/steel black). Few whacks with a peening hammer to give it the hand forged look...

And, although overspray can be contained - it can be problematic. Not sure how small your space is...but, you will want to take precautions (both to catch overspray and the ventilate the area).

That is really interesting that you linked me that page (thank you a TON for that) because I was just looking at this one for ideas https://www.google.com/search?q=red+rust&espv=2&biw=1133&bih=855&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=qHSsVL7iGIjlgwTFjoPwBA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ . This would work better with the color of the case, if I did decide to paint or go over it in some way, but there are colors on the page you linked that are much like this as well.

$136 for the cheapest one, however...that is certainly steep - I was hoping to get away with no more than $50 or so more if I had to for the PC, heh - but I suppose that's realistic. I think that exact selection you made ( http://www.colorcopper.com/dark-distressed-copper-sheet ) is *perfect* for what I had in mind. Is this going to look particularly shiny then? I was hoping it might be rather dull instead.

Which reminds me - any ideas of places I could go for adeptus mechanicus-esque wires? Perhaps big ones? (I'm still working on that sketch so I can show you how I mean to use them)

Not the only source for foils - just a source. I am sure there are others which are cheaper...I have just used their products and have been quite happy with them. For example, you can buy partial sheets from one of my other favorite suppliers:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Specialty__Veneer/Copper__Veneer/Patina__Copper__Veneer

A couple of the 18x24 sections might be enough for your needs.

In terms of the sheen - it isn't exactly dull, but not shiny either. After you apply the metal, you will want to apply a clear coat anyway to prevent further oxidization. You can flatten it down some more that way if you like.

For the lines and what not - no clue what you have in mind...but a stab in the dark would be to look at flexible copper lines:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-x-24-in-FIP-x-S-Copper-Water-Heater-Connector-7211-24-34FIP-S/202692481

3/4" is easy to find (used for water heaters and what not) but you can find larger and smaller too if you go to a plumbing supply house. With it being copper - you can use various chemicals to age it as you want to give it a different color.

Regular wire loom is another option - but that can be problematic to paint.

I think those copper connectors might be perfect! Too shiny though, have to make them way darker. But that is absolutely a start, thanks!

Today I actually bought two car spray paints that I picked up from the local Autozone and only then realized they weren't from the same brand, so I'm going to return them.

However, far more interestingly, I went to the local Games Workshop and got some propellant and two paints to work with that citadel spray gun I figured I might as well try first since...I already have it. I went through basically everything in the instructional video guide ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5IG6F301Js ) buuut...I'm such a noob I didn't even get any airflow!

I was feeling pretty confident as I did it, so I'm going to go to the local GW today/Friday (that's the plan anyway) to see what's up. If anyone has any ideas how to troubleshoot that particular problem, let me know. (And yes, I know it seems that there are tons of very vocal people that hate it - but again, I had it already! Lol.)

Important question by the way - since it seems I'll only need to sand once, which grit should I use? I also bought a small assortment pack for sandpaper. (Will it strip much of the existing paint off?)

 Netsurfer733 wrote:


I was feeling pretty confident as I did it, so I'm going to go to the local GW today/Friday (that's the plan anyway) to see what's up. If anyone has any ideas how to troubleshoot that particular problem, let me know. (And yes, I know it seems that there are tons of very vocal people that hate it - but again, I had it already! Lol.)

Important question by the way - since it seems I'll only need to sand once, which grit should I use? I also bought a small assortment pack for sandpaper. (Will it strip much of the existing paint off?)

Scoff it with 600 or 800 grit so you just get a matte surface, that's enough. No need to overdo it and be very gentle around edges.

Try the gun out by spraying water first. If water works but paint doesn't, then it's the paint thickness, add some water and mix very well.

If you get air out of the can but water/gun doesn't work, then dismantle the gun and check for dried up gunk. Spray equipment needs to be well cleaned immediately after each use, dried paint gunks it up immediately. After each spraying, run water through the system. After you are done for the day, dismantle the gun and clean any paint residue using a toothbrush and some soap under a faucet.

Thanks, I definitely did as you advised here and tried again with pure water. I ended up messing with the valve more than I thought I had to... And now it works perfectly! I even sprayed some base paint and it worked wonderfully (reddish color - going with the red rust idea because the case lends itself to it).

In continuing with attempting the cheapest way to possibly do this project first (just pointing that out so you guys know that am absolutely not ignoring your awesome ideas!), I think next up will be my trying out the primer with the citadel paints. I expect good results. And I still enjoy the fact that I could be making a 40k computer with 40k paints.

Some pertinent noob questions at this stage:

I shouldn't have a problem with the primer I linked with the citadel paints, right? Are there any potential downsides since I'm essentially mixing brands?

In general... Is it a bad idea to mix base paint with a layer paint when it comes to Citadel pots? I haven't really been into the painting side of the hobby for over a decade... (though I've always missed it) This is what I'm about to do next, heh.

Does anyone know where I can get multiple pots with which to 'reload' my spray gun with so I can do multiple colors quickly? (it's so unendingly freezing here these days and I want to try and finish this in 2 weeks)

Are there any advisable ways I could scrub off the paint on this kind of surface if I mess up? Any good paint removers you guys might recommend? (I figure sanding down some mistakes wouldn't be so bad. Heck I've been thinking that sanding the thing just to get a rougher aesthetic might be a good direction just cuz!)

I was thinking of 3D printing a mechanicus symbol.. But do you guys have any recommendations for how I can get one, maybe 4" by 4" or more?

Also if anyone else has ideas for where to find wires/tubes that would be helpful - I seem to never find quite what I want from Lowes/Home Depot when I go so I don't expect to this time either, lol.

I'm excited about what the future might bring, at this point!

For decent coverage and an even coat over soemthing as large as a computer case, it wouldnt hurt to use an hvlp touch up gun.
Certainly for the clear coat; I think your probably restricted to rattle cans for a decent finish on it.

Citadel paints should work alright although theyre a bit thick; all acrylics are really.
You want solvent based paints in order to keep the paint film thickness thin while till getting good coverage and durability; particularly where the side panel slides into the main chassis (that is if you want it to fit nicely - speaking from experience while doing a nintendo DS case paint job)
If using the citadels, I would avoid covering the edges of the panels to keep it fitting nice.

I would usually scuff all over with scotchbrite (grey not pink - theyre different grades of abrasiveness), then prime with an automotive primer, if theres dings and scratches to cover, with a high build primer.

Then wet sand the primer with 800 grit paper, and apply another coat of primer and sand again if you go through to the plastic anywhere atall.

Then wipe down with painter degreaser and panel wipe on a clean cotton rag (ideally)

Then mix up and spray the base colour with your spray gun of choice (I would recommend an hvlp touch up gun with 8-10cfm of air flow and a 1.0mm nozzle)

Then clear coat, then do airbrush art, and clear coat again.

And then lacquer with high gloss polyurethane, wet sand upto 2000grit, then rubbing compound, then wax and polish. and then sit back admiring your ugly mug in the mirror finish you just made.

 Netsurfer733 wrote:
And I still enjoy the fact that I could be making a 40k computer with 40k paints.

Many gamers don't even paint 40k models with 40k paints Personally if I were dead set on using hobby paints I'd probably use enamels like you get from Humbrol or Testors as they're a hell of a lot tougher and I have friends who use them to paint remote control aircraft and whatnot, but it's up to you!

I shouldn't have a problem with the primer I linked with the citadel paints, right? Are there any potential downsides since I'm essentially mixing brands?

I'm not familiar with that primer, as long as it's an acrylic primer I imagine you'd be fine. If it's not an acrylic you'll probably need to wait for it to 100% cure before going over it (which could take several days, several weeks or even a couple of months depending on what it is, 100% DRY does not mean 100% CURED).

In general... Is it a bad idea to mix base paint with a layer paint when it comes to Citadel pots? I haven't really been into the painting side of the hobby for over a decade... (though I've always missed it) This is what I'm about to do next, heh.

No that's fine. You can intermix most acrylics quite readily as long as they have similar bases. As long as you're final consistency is fine you can mix washes with layers with bases with dries, or citadel with vallejo with reaper. The only ones to look out for are paints that actually have different bases, like Tamiya and Gunze paints which are alcohol based tend not to mix well with Citadel paints.

Does anyone know where I can get multiple pots with which to 'reload' my spray gun with so I can do multiple colors quickly? (it's so unendingly freezing here these days and I want to try and finish this in 2 weeks)

Sorry can't help you there, no idea. I imagine you'll have to clean out the spray gun between colours anyway as the pick up tube (they do have a pickup tube in those I think?) and passages will be full of paint you'll want to clear before swapping colours.

Are there any advisable ways I could scrub off the paint on this kind of surface if I mess up? Any good paint removers you guys might recommend? (I figure sanding down some mistakes wouldn't be so bad. Heck I've been thinking that sanding the thing just to get a rougher aesthetic might be a good direction just cuz!)

If you catch it before it dries you could use water. If it's started to dry, a very weak paint remover is cheap vodka, I often keep a bottle of vodka near me when I paint so I can clean up small mistakes without affecting the underlying paint, but if it's fully cured vodka won't do much. If it's well and truly cured, isopropyl alcohol can work but may strip underlying paint as well. Ummm, I'm sure there's lots of other things you can use, acetone probably, nail polish remover.

I was thinking of 3D printing a mechanicus symbol.. But do you guys have any recommendations for how I can get one, maybe 4" by 4" or more?

I'm not sure of any companies that sell mechanicus like symbols, but you could also consider laser cutting if your design can be entirely made of flat shapes, it's quite cheap these days and you can cut many materials. You could also just use plasticard, sketch out your designs then cut them out. There are places you can get stuff CNC machined too, no idea how much that costs because we do all our basic CNC stuff in house. Depends on your design and how cheaply you can locally get different things done I guess.

Also if anyone else has ideas for where to find wires/tubes that would be helpful - I seem to never find quite what I want from Lowes/Home Depot when I go so I don't expect to this time either, lol.

I don't know about the US, over here we have an electronics store called Jaycar which is where I go when I want to find random wires and things. It's the sort of store where you can buy everything from a remote control car to all the constituent components required to build a remote control car from scratch, lol. You might have something similar over there.

Just wanted to say up top - I don't think I'd ever have felt like I could do this without this thread and your guys input. I feel like I should be paying you guys XD

Thanks Hairy! I think you echoed what a lot of other folks are saying. I'm going to keep up with my cheap and easy way for now since it's working out so well (see below), but I am keeping these ideas in mind.

AllSeeingPink - THANK YOU for the awesome responses man! I have been given pause about the paints...and folks mentioned here that car spray cans are a better alternative. However, they are more expensive but far more importantly, I wasn't able to quite find the right colors at Autozone. And I can't mix em either as far as I know. About curing...can I just ask how I can tell when a thing is cured, and why I shouldn't just spray over it before it is cured (I'm not 100% sure what curing is, I'm that much of a noob...)? Thanks to the thumbs up for mixing bases & layers - you can see the results below. Also thanks for the paint remover! That opens up some possibilities. Especially the easy vodka idea. Oh I *absolutely* found something after a brief expedition to home depot last night...see below

In fact, I wanted to share some things with you guys today Starting with just that - the color I was able to find, and my initial success in being able to use the spray at all: Total noob stuff! Regardless, I did a variety of things with it as you can tell, going way too far on purpose in the top right, messing with some settings (still not sure I can recall off the top of my head which way to turn what to do what). I now have a sense of how to do it, and I don't think you can tell with the picture but the color is PERFECT. I'm not sure I ever linked this but I've had this in the back of my mind all along as inspiration, though my colors will be quite different: http://www.modders-inc.com/fallout-3-case-mod/7/ The technique is somewhat the same as what I have in mind, I think.

Anyway, inspired by this *sort* of look still http://fc06.deviantart.net/fs70/i/2011/142/c/d/old_red_rust_texture_by_suicidecrew-d3gyrwv.jpg my plan is to leave the base color as the undercoat (brightest), use the color you see over the majority of it now (a combination of Citadel Base - Screaming Bell, and Citadel Layer - Brass Scorpion...gratuitous link with not too accurate colors inc http://imgur.com/gTeZXzp ), and then one last layer of Citadel Brass Scorpion ( http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Layer fyi). I'm just going to see if that color works out. The idea is that final layer will resemble its original, ancient color, and everything else will just sort of show how it was eaten away into a terrible rest rust sort of effect. Ideally, this will come across as very terrible. Very Mars. Very ancient. I'm no artist so I'm sure with a lot more time money and effort folks could do this WAY better but I know my limits so the simple spraying method/pattern/what-have-you I linked above for the Fallout 3 case should be great for me, just with this color scheme. What do you guys think?

Given that there are a number of ways to take a step or two back and undo whatever paint job I do here, I think I might actually go with this! Once I finish with this paint stuff, I'll be able to actually assemble and use my PC at long last. The wires/mechanicum symbol can come later. But I HAVE made some progress on those fronts as well. Namely, someone is selling a good sized Mechanicum symbol for $90 online (I might spring for it because it's seriously awesome and I'm clueless as to what to do instead of it), and I also discovered THESE suckers http://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cable-Systems-1-in-x-300-ft-Flexible-Aluminum-Conduit-5604-80-00/204405183?N=5yc1vZbohl / http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-1-2-in-X-100-ft-Flex-RWS-Steel-Conduit-55081802/202935699 . They can be an inch thick too I saw, and up to about $50, maybe even $20 or 30. I figure if I stain these up real good then I should be able to make them perfect. Then I'd want to cap them off somehow so they can't cut anyone and they fit nice to the PC...I don't know, maybe with one of these https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=steel+flex+conduit+fittings&tbm=shop . They said I could cut them with a hacksaw as well...but I rather doubt it, right? Anyone have any suggestions of how I can stain and cut these?

(I also picked up this for under $3 just to have something to mess with, but I don't think I want to go with flimsy plastic - and I probably want something bigger http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Flex-Tubing-1-2-FLX-5007T/202905454 so, eh).

What might give me pause now, however, is texturing. What do you guys know about it? I came across some things like this in my run to Michaels http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K08262-Metallic-Textured-12-Ounce/dp/B002XNQLI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421215642&sr=8-3&keywords=make+it+stone . That exact brand actually. So the pertinent question now is - is this sort of effect worthwhile, and would it play well with acrylic paints? I suppose I might just go with this sort of thing if it can come out well. (I don't think I'd ever get this because of the money, but this also was interesting http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-Power-Tex-Texture-Sprayer-0520000/100625486 ). I do want a sort of real metallic texture to this machine; it would be a huge plus, if not necessary.

Additionally, I picked two of these up for some reason...I think I was thinking it might be good to 'stain' whatever I do with something metallic-ish, but something tells me I should return them http://imgur.com/c1a7bNp & http://imgur.com/godKb4Q . Thoughts? (These enamel stains are basically just Citadel ink, right?)

One last thing that is arguably more important than anything else right now - in terms of the questionable lasting power of these acrylic paints, you guys have been suggesting things like using gloss or varnish afterwards. But is there any non-shiny...thing...I can apply to the case afterwards to increase the longetivity of the acrylic paints/preserve what I do without making it shiny?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Behold...a board covered in crap!!! (*cough* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W36pKI6qNKo *cough* )

Stayed up way too late to get around to this lol. But I got the next step in [be certain to focus merely on the right side - ignore the left - I just use that to make sure I'm using the airbrush right].



(Higher rez, I think: http://imgur.com/xXLkr9J )

What do you guys think of the colors? I think the texture seems about right when I look closely enough. Obviously it's just a big blah of blur right now, but I think once this is affixed to the PC case it will take on a whole new life, right? I've never done this before but that's my guess. Also I see what you guys mean by layers. This is all just one go, kinda one big layer. It's especially important when it comes to airbrushes, isn't it? I kind of can't stand to stare at this image for too long just because I want to go back and even it out a heck of a lot more, but I'm sure once I get to the actual computer that will come easily enough. I think the orange of the pc case should be the perfect 'undercoat' for this, so I'm glad I got a supposedly awesome, universal clear primer (easy link http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Graphite-Mid-Tower-Computer-CC-9011038-WW/dp/B00EUZVNHU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421233735&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+pc+case ). I'll be mindful to do as you guys say and do 3 layers separated by several minutes. And yeah I'll keep the sanding in mind - must remember to do that first. This is just a foam board so I didn't think to do that for sake of habit-forming.

So yeah - what do you guys think of the colors/blend, most importantly? Of course, for now, imagine it to be a bit more even, etc

I'd say just keep on testing things on that piece of board, until you get it to your liking. You can always re-prime it with some white paint and keep on trying out different things. Once you know how to get a good result, you can apply it on a real project. This is the key to learning how to paint things, really.

Clear coat is no problem - either buy matt varnish, or use 1000-1500 sand paper to matt down a glossy surface.

Matt varnish...will this change the coloring much? More importantly, will it reliably get the job of keeping my acrylic paints on there (unbothered by the lifting/carrying I'll have to do) done?

I've never heard of it before now - but if it addresses the concerns of others in this thread for staying power of the acrylics, I'll be all over this. Google hasn't been easy so I await your word!

A quick google image search for "PC skin rusty" reveals:
http://skinslove.com/product_info.php/products_id/1556?osCsid=d58d31ab64136ea2cf01e9a604cbe4c9
http://laptopskins.net/industrial_laptop_skins.php#

Those seem to only be for laptops of specific sizes, and one is not taking orders anymore :( I already learned the well is really quite dry when it comes to PC skins, as far as I could tell, sadly. Thanks though!

I think I mentioned I'm buying the Mechanicus symbol from someone for $100-200, lol. 6 inches by 6 inches. Tons of options, and professional painting available. Hell if nothing else, I'd be happy to just slap that thing on the side of my machine and call it a day. My fiancee is actually getting it for me as a gift. SO HAPPY.

Anyway the reason I bring that up is because that this person that I'm buying it from actually had some advice. Namely, to actually *paint* the final, outer, brass/brown coat onto the entire PC, and not airbrush it like the rest. Reason being: metallic-ness. I think I can see that. Any thoughts on the matter?

And I can still use thoughts on the past message if anyone has any. Namely, if this sort of thing is as good as it seems it might be: http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K08261-Metallic-Textured-12-Ounce/dp/B002XNP0FM

And lastly...I went to get more stuff from GW today, and the guy showed this to me. http://www.games-workshop.com/en-EU/Purity-Seal-Spray . Is it just me or is that the perfect solution to the potential long lasting problems to acrylic paint?