Halfords Spray Primer

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**Tonberry7**

I've read a few recommendations for Halfords spray primer as an alternative to the Citadel ones. When I called in today they had versions of their primers specifically for plastic.

Can anyone who has used them before advise whether the normal primer will do for both plastic and metal models, or should I get the plastic primer specifically for plastic models?

Also what about resin (finecast/forge world)? I'm sure I read somewhere that plastic spray primers didn't bond very well to resin and a more powerful primer was advised.

**evildrcheese**

I use Halfords primer and didn't even realise there was one specifically for plastics. I've used it on plastic, resin and finecast with no problems.

What does the bottle for the plastic one look like? I'm not actually sure which I've been using to be honest.

D

**Tonberry7**

Thanks D

The two cans looked very similar to be honest, the plastics one just had a bit more text on the front saying "for plastics".

The blurb on the back reckoned it was a special formulation for plastic parts of a car like bumpers rather than metal bodywork. I was just wondering whether that was the best one to go for. From the sounds of it the normal one will be fine though.

**HairySticks**

I use Halfords sprays,

Afaik the 'plastic primer' is made with things like motor bike panels in mind where the paint needs to have some flex an not crack.

The regular primer will do just fine, they have white, grey and red (i hear stories of yellow but never found it)
For black, their matt black paint (paint, not primer) will do just fine, theyve also got a set of 4 cammo colours (black, green, brown, beige) which are ultramatte finish and work well for us.

They have a large range of sprays, but most of its not for us sadly. :( .. its mostly for car paint work repairs. Theyve got a glossy 'clear lacquer' and a matte lacquer that are handy.

I've been meanint to test a can of the bright art fx colours they do, unsure how thick the paint is inside those. Any one tried them?
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-artfx-purple-paint-400ml

Theyve got a bunch of brighter colours for those.

**Warpig1815**

I'll +1 the Halfords Spray Primer. HairySticks got me onto using it and I've never looked back. As for what it works on - I've tried it on GW's Plastic and Metal minis, other metal minis and I've just sprayed up Forgeworld's Resin Primarch Vulkan with it - no problems whatsoever. Just give it a vigorous shake for 1-2 minutes and use like any other brand spray. I tend to use the Grey Primer, but I've seen the results of the Red and it's just as good.

@HairySticks - Can't say I've ever seen Yellow in stock myself. If they do it, I may consider starting an Imperial Fists army...

**angelofvengeance**

HairySticks wrote:
I use Halfords sprays,

Afaik the 'plastic primer' is made with things like motor bike panels in mind where the paint needs to have some flex an not crack.

The regular primer will do just fine, they have white, grey and red (i hear stories of yellow but never found it)
For black, their matt black paint (paint, not primer) will do just fine, theyve also got a set of 4 cammo colours (black, green, brown, beige) which are ultramatte finish and work well for us.

They have a large range of sprays, but most of its not for us sadly. :( .. its mostly for car paint work repairs. Theyve got a glossy 'clear lacquer' and a matte lacquer that are handy.

I've been meanint to test a can of the bright art fx colours they do, unsure how thick the paint is inside those. Any one tried them?
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-artfx-purple-paint-400ml

Theyve got a bunch of brighter colours for those.

By regular primer you mean this yes?

Spoiler:

**Tonberry7**

Thanks HairySticks & Warpig, I'll definitely try the Halfords Sprays then. The red primer did catch my eye for some of the Khorne models I'll be doing.

**bubber**

Here's a few WIPs using Halford's gery, red oxide & yellow ochre sprays:

(note that this was mostly painted with primer then weathering powders. The only actual paint is on the guns & other areas of brass).

My gallery has some more progressed paint jobs but these would be most helpful.

**HairySticks**

angelofvengeance wrote:

By regular primer you mean this yes?

Spoiler:

**angelofvengeance**

Is it strippable?

**ryuken87**

Anyone have experience with the matt and satin lacquers?

**HairySticks**

Yeh its stripable, I use 99.9% pure IPA for stripping, in an old ice-cream tub. Had minis in it for 6months+ with no issue. Leaving them that long made the primer really easy to get off actually.
Yould ifnd the IPA will eat regular paints in about 5-10minutes, the primer will want a day or two soak atleast to come off without too much work.
The ones that are actual primers are more hardwearing, but still come off with a bit of extra scrubbing. - if i want black basecoat I dont use primer fiorst then black paint, I go straight on witht eh black paint. It works just fine, is plenty durable for plastic models, metals might want sealing in but easy chipping is a common thing with metal models and any paints.

The matt finish, just like any other lacquer. - as with any good lacquers, your first coat should be very light, (i mean it!) jut dust lightly over the figure and then wait 5-10minutes, this is known as a tack coat, and helps the next heavier coat to not run down in drips.
Be really patient with lacquers, waitign inbetween coats is key to success.

If you lay down thick wet lacquer onto bare acrylic paint it will probably go a bit funny and ruin your work.
I find its best to first seal the mini in an acrylic clear akin to the paints used on it first, paint reactions tend to happen along the borders between colours first, so having a clear film over the entire figure eliminates one source of paint defect that can crop up.
As I say do a fine almost dry coat innitiall and give it 5-10mins before laying a wet coat on and you should be fine in 99% of situations. Another good tip is to heat the can under the hot tap for a few minutes while shaking it. Enough so that it stays warm to the touch but isnt too hot to hold (can can explode when that hot) this makes the pressue int he can higher, aids the paint mixing and lowers its viscosity, all good stuff Can be the difference between good and bad priming in questionable weather conditions.
Messing up lacquer after working so hard at paint can be heartbreaking.