Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I'm rubbish with decals, I know it, but I've tried using Microsol and Microset to put the Forge World Iron Hands decals down and it still hasn't worked out, they just won't lay flat! They are a bit of a funny shape after all.
I even ended putting on presumably too much Microsol and taking off the paint underneath.

A decent step by step walk through of how to do it would be greatly appreciated. I've heard something about soaking the decal in Microsol before applying?

Super gloss coat the shoulder
Wait for that to set (24h or more)
Sit decal on wet sponge, not submerged (I don't know the broscience on this)
Microsol on shoulder pad
Decal on shoulder pad
Position
Microsol over decal
Position again because you moved it with your brush
Wait for that to set
Microset

Shoulders are the absolute worst, I used to just do relief cuts in them (where it folds over, just exacto knife it and microsol it flat). The above made it a bit better, but still not perfect - I am honestly to the stage where I am just going to learn to free-hand them because the learning curve seems equally steep.

Definitely gloss the target area first...

You can also add tiny (super sharp exacto blade) scores to the decal before you wet it if you'll be placing it on a very curved area. This will make it that much more difficult to place but when you do it'll be flat.

If you're taking off paint, that means you're not putting down a sealer. Gloss sealer is absolutely necessary for nice looking decals.

1. Gloss seal the entire model or just the area you plan on using a decal on.
2. Wait for the sealer to fully cure. Typically 24 hours. Read the can if you're unsure.
3. Dip the decal in water with tweezers, pull out after 15-30 seconds.
4. Apply Microset to the area getting the decal if the area is relatively flat. Apply Microsol to heavy textured or curved areas.
5. Using a wet brush, gently see if you can shift the decal from the backing. If it won't budge, let it sit longer.
6. Once it shifts a little, use your wet brush and slide it from the backing to the surface of the model. Get it into the perfect position, then walk away for about 15 minutes.
7. The decal might look a bit deformed or wrinkly. That's good. If it still needs to conform to the surface more, reapply more Microsol. Again, walk away for 15 minutes.
8. Rarely, it may require some small slits along the outer edges if the surface is really curved. Use a brand new blade and barely touch the decal when making your slits.
9. When it seems to be fully conformed to the surface, use a damp paper towel and gently press down on the decal. Do not buff or burnish. Simply a little downward pressure.
10. Aply another gloss coat. Allow to fully cure.

Old decals are very fragile and will sometimes rip when simply sliding from the backing. Just remember that even new decals will be very fragile during this whole process, and even those of us who know what we're doing can dork it up if we're not careful.