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Made in gb
Defending Guardian Defender




UK

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Basically, the chaos black spray sold by gw is an acrylic based spray which I think is overpriced- is there any difference between using that or using a cellulose based spray that Costs a couple of pounds in the hardware store

What are the differences? And will it affect my models in the long run


Thanks

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/01/18 14:18:34


Only a Sith deals in absolutes 
   
Made in gb
Keeper of the Holy Orb of Antioch





avoiding the lorax on Crion

Don,t know but I use the army painter matt black which is very good even if abit more than the cheapest.

Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.

"May the odds be ever in your favour"

Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.

FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.  
   
Made in us
Guardsman with Flashlight




Dayton Ohio

I use Rust-Oleum ultra flat black from their camouflage collection. Its inexpensive and covers beautifully.

Its better to be dead and cool than alive and uncool.  
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





I've used cheap car sprays and other cheap sprays in the past. They're fine but you have to be so careful with your passes, it's very easy to flatten all the detail of a model. The GW spray is expensive, yes but it is good.

Lucas.

1500pt undefeated Nurgle and Khorne army.

Starting on Eldar.
 
   
Made in gb
Using Inks and Washes





Duxford, Cambs, UK

Or just grab a reasonable spray gun and some Vallejo black surface primer. The primer is about the same cost as GW spray, but as it is just the liquid with no propellant (Hence the nead for a spraygun, but I'd recommend something other than the GW one) it lasts at least 4 times as long.

"Ask ten different scientists about the environment, population control, genetics, and you'll get ten different answers, but there's one thing every scientist on the planet agrees on. Whether it happens in a hundred years or a thousand years or a million years, eventually our Sun will grow cold and go out. When that happens, it won't just take us. It'll take Marilyn Monroe, and Lao-Tzu, and Einstein, and Morobuto, and Buddy Holly, and Aristophanes…then all of this…all of this…was for nothing. Unless we go to the stars." Commander sinclair, Babylon 5.

Bobtheinquisitor wrote:what is going on with APAC shipping? If Macross Island were real, they'd be the last place to get any Robotechnology.
 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Before switching largely to Vallejo PU primer, I had always used cheap aerosol enamels on plastics. Never had a problem with filled details - the Walmart house brand (ColorPlace) flat black goes on exceptionally thin and smooth, actually. If working on metals, where an actual primer is necessary for any degree of durability, I used Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Primer. Thicker than the flat enamels, but still pretty easy to lay down thin coats. Considering the range, quality, and price of 'hardware store' options, I'd never pay for GW undercoats or varnishes.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

Before using spray paints, make sure that it is indeed a spray primer and not your regular old spray paint. A spray primer will provide tooth for your paints to stick to.

And yes, they work just fine. I prime with cheap spray primers almost exclusively and they never fail me so far.


 
   
 
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