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Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut







http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINSOR-NEWTON-WINTON-OIL-COLOUR-37ML-200ML-TUBES/131165272056?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D76d62d6863ac4b0ab8bddf7e77b9dae8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D151324565599&rt=nc

I want to try this oil wash applied over varnish thing that I have seen done in a few tutorials, just want to make sure these are the right products i need before I hit the buy buttons.

Also is there any advantage in buying 'artists white spirit' instead of the normal cheapo brand stuff?
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Oil colour varies GREATLY depending on colour and manufacturer - I bought some W&N stuff that has pigment too big for oil washing (black) and other W&N stuff that is perfect (brown).

Generally, yes, that is the stuff you want - but there is trial and error. As for white spirit, again it depends on your region, here for example "mineral turpentine" will just strip models without a second thought, whereas W&N Sansodor doesn't (and is, shocking, sans odour).

You can make any oil paint work by getting the sediment away from the brush, you can make any white spirit work by having an appropriately thick layer of varnish.

That said, I am still horrible at oil washing, it is nowhere near as easy as it looks
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I have some winton oils. I have only used the burnt umber for a wash but it works fine.

WN sansodor is good stuff for your white spirit.

and as the poster above said you can get pretty different results depending on the pigment. I bought Grumbacher Van Dyk Brown and it has grains in it that don't dissolve. So for a wash its not really great, the color is right but it dries patchy so for full coverage you have to apply it again and again. And oils take awhile to dry so you turn a stage that should take about an hour into a multiple day affair.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






kb_lock wrote:
Oil colour varies GREATLY depending on colour and manufacturer - I bought some W&N stuff that has pigment too big for oil washing (black) and other W&N stuff that is perfect (brown).


Were those the Winton or the Artist's Oils? I forget which one is which - but one has an even pigment grind across the spectrum of colors, while the other one has more varied grinds depending on the pigment in question (think the Winton is the chunky version while the Artist's oils are the creamy...). Anywho, point being, it will also depend on the line as well.

To the OP, more or less, yes. Any oil paint will work for doing oil washes. So will enamels. In many ways, you do get what you pay for though - and if you are looking for very fine streaky washes, you may want to look for something that is a bit more refined to avoid any large pigment particles.

In terms of the advantages of artists versus cheapo solvents...smell is a big thing. However, the exact formulation will also vary depending on what the intent of the manufacturer is. I have found that artists odorless turps (brand is largely irrelevant) are less likely to damage underlying paint. Some of the stuff from my shop though will do a number on half cured acrylics. For the most part, they are the same...just the minute variations in formulations is enough to impact how strong of a solvent they are.
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

I will have to check - I think it was the Winton ones.
   
 
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