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Made in gb
One Canoptek Scarab in a Swarm





Hi,

I am in need of some advice, I am making some scenery / terrain pieces for my board to give it more character but I am struggling for ideas on what to base them on to give them a good sized footprint.

My local GW uses movement trays but I was hoping there would be a cheaper method.

Any ideas would be great.
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

MDF or HDF at the local hardware store is your best bet. Strong, resilient and fairly inexpensive.
   
Made in gb
One Canoptek Scarab in a Swarm





Sounds solid thanks, I'll give it a go.

   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Careful for warping. MDF or hardboard will warp with moisture. sealing them would be a good idea.

Edit: AS per below yeah smaller pieces is fine (sub 6"6 ish or longer pieces) But seal it anyway incase you spill drinks otherwise it will swell up and split a bit. also uneven pieces can be sanded down or felted to level it.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/01/20 23:17:09


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

My terrain is based on 3mm mdf.

Nothing larger than about 12"x12" though (roughly). Warping isn't enough of an issue with small pieces (and I have felt pieces glued to the underside to help stop the pieces sliding around on the table.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

I prefer 1/4" MDF (Masonite). Smooth side down. Then foam core used to make the buildings with hot glue gun. Fast. Exact. Takes paint. Won't warp like I suspect the 3mm would when you paint one side. YMMV
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator





Pittsburgh, PA, USA

 doktor_g wrote:
I prefer 1/4" MDF (Masonite). Smooth side down. Then foam core used to make the buildings with hot glue gun. Fast. Exact. Takes paint. Won't warp like I suspect the 3mm would when you paint one side. YMMV


Ditto. I've never had warpage with 1/4" MDF. I also bevel the edges at 45 degrees when I make my cuts with a jigsaw. I'm curious: is there a reason why you have the smooth side down? I've always gone with the unfinished side down to lessen sliding on the tabletop.

   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I would assume he puts it smooth side down to have the rough side up, giving a better key for gluing.

Personally, I prefer 1/8" to 1/4", unless the piece is massive and/or I want a stark border (like for a city board, where tall buildings weigh more and curbs define the roads.). A few simple precautions can avoid warping issues and the step is much less obtrusive, both to the eye and to top-heavy models.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
 
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