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HI everyone,

After seeing the affects achieved with the army painter quick shades I have purchased a can of the strong and the anti shine to use on my OK army.

Im wondering two things

after applying the shade and letting it dry......... is it possible to paint highlights and other affects on top of the shade while its shiny or......

I spray the anti shine on after the model dries will I still be able to paint highlights and other affects and then maybe spray another layer of the anit shine??

any help is appreciated.

i only know the dropper bottles,, i used them on chaplain thread 1 or two down on this page.

the dark tone is pretty dark, on metalics the dulled down colour is quite obvious.

Im pretty sure you could paint onto it after either stage. There would be no reason you couldn't unless maybe using oils, as you'll have white spirit in the mix. But once hit with your dullcoat or matte varnish you can work on it like you could any varnished model. Not speaking from experience but I literally see no reason why not.

It gave interesting results the quickshade. I just had myself a look on youtube. Sadly although I hate painting, I am a perfectionist to some degree and I just dont think I could live with myself (as I convert all my models to some degree, I then end up feeling bad if I dont atleast try and give them a 'of reasonable length of time paintjob'). But in saying that I have some crons I might try it over the base metal colour.

ok awesome

my plan is to use it as a can of shade from which point Im going to highlight and apply blood and rust effect to metal and skin then do tattoos

I suffer from a perfectionistic touch and I just loved the way the shade gives depth to the model from which point most of the main work would be done and I would go back and touch up everything to give a 7 to 8 out of 10 standard for them ogres!!

Ive heard the Quickshade dip (which is a polyurethane stain, like for wood) doesnt dry with as much tooth as most things do, so other layers may have trouble sticking to it. Just try it out and see, if it doesnt, thats why. If it does, no problem.

You can paint directly on the cured Quickshade, but may have trouble controlling the application of dilute acrylics. Glossy surfaces do lack tooth, which tends to make watery paints run and pool in crevices (why you apply a gloss coat before a pin wash). Personally, I'd give the models a quick dusting of matte varnish if I planned to do more than the most basic touchups, after dipping (followed by a final matte coat, of course).

exactly, if its too glossy for your paints, matte it. Then paint it POST PICS! i'd like to see it stage by stage if you do

thanks for the advice guys..... Ill do my best and try to post some pics with stuff as I get everything coming in the mail and start to paint stuff up ..... Im just hopin the quickshade works wells and doesnt give me any trouble

You're gonna wanna do a matte clearcoat spray (I've used Krylon's to good effect). On top of that, you can paint again.

Here is an example of some light, and i do mean light, highlights after using Army Painter Soft Tone

I used the Dark Tone a while ago and was very pleased with the results. I will probably end up doing some other army with it in the future. I recommend brushing it on as you have a lot more control using it. Make sure to keep an eye on the models though because the quickshade will start to pool and it becomes difficult to manage if left too long before it dries. Lastly, use an old brush (or some cheap ones from Walmart or whatever - that's what I do so I don't care if they get destroyed).

I started out using it as a dip but realized it was more effective painted on so I could control how much went where.

I will do about 5 figures at a time and then while its still fresh, I use a cotton swab soaked in mineral spirits to blot/roll off all the highlight areas. All of the pictures in my gallery have quickshade used on them to one degree or another.

Make sure you keep the rim of the can clean as you want a good seal. I suggest using a metal spoon to stir and take out the portion you are going to use. Seal the can well as quickshade can turn into jello over time.

Icculus wrote:Here is an example of some light, and i do mean light, highlights after using Army Painter Soft Tone

Icculus, Could you possibly please comment on your experiences of using quickshade with orks? Currently I use the badmoonz speed painting, which is base yellow, add beil-tan green washes to skin, paint metals was with a brown. Its pretty fast and effective, but is typically limited to da moon boyz. I see you've got some death skulls there, which is the other scheme I paint my orks in, but its much slower compared to me moon pies.

Perhaps a brief explanation of your process?

Rickfactor wrote:I started out using it as a dip but realized it was more effective painted on so I could control how much went where.

I will do about 5 figures at a time and then while its still fresh, I use a cotton swab soaked in mineral spirits to blot/roll off all the highlight areas. All of the pictures in my gallery have quickshade used on them to one degree or another.

So this would be similar in technique to an oil wash? I will check out your gallery

Well I don't speed paint, so painting my boyz takes me awhile.

I go on each color with a basecoat. I use army painter paints.

Greenskin first, then black pants/shirt, then blue on the fun stuff, then leather, then bone for teeth and skulls and stuff. Then I get a brush, an old thick one, and just slobber the whole model in the wash. I just slap it on, covering pretty much every part of the model.

let it dry, then go back in with highlights to pick out the parts that shouldn't be sooo dark.

Just for another reference point. I use Army Painter Quickshade medium on my Orks. I actually kind of like the shiny look and find it tends to dull itself over time so I don't bother putting matte on after to dull it down. I also brush mine on and tend to soak up any extra with a brush as I go and simply wipe the brusk off on a napkin. Keeps the amount of quickshade on the model down. I have found what you think is A LOT while applying is really not all that much or too bad once it dries.

Here is a link to my Ork Gallery.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-72079-44995_Ork%20Army.html

Can you guys post more pictures of your best dipped miniature using Quickshade? I'm really curious about this subject matter since I'll be buying a Mantic Undead bundle soon and I don't want to spend years painting 100+ models.

I don't use Quickshade, rather I use Minwax polyshades which is the nearly identical product that people used before Quickshade was "invented". The results are essentially the same.

As others have said, if you want to do highlights post-dip, you can put them right over the dried dip, but you'll get MUCH better control and tooth if you matte varnish (anti-shine is a spray-on matte varnish) the figure first. I use Winsor Newton Galeria Matte Varnish (brush on) for cutting the shine on my dipped figs. It's cheaper than spray, and you don't have to worry about humdity, temp or spray setup.

If you want to see finished pictures of dipped minis, you can see a bunch on my Brush-dipping Tutorial
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2012/01/with-liberty-and-brush-dipping-for-all.html

Heartserenade,
let me look around as I think I have some pics of my buddies brush-dipped Mantic undead. Be back later if I find them.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 heartserenade wrote:
Can you guys post more pictures of your best dipped miniature using Quickshade? I'm really curious about this subject matter since I'll be buying a Mantic Undead bundle soon and I don't want to spend years painting 100+ models.

Here's my buddy's undead I couldn't find as good pics of his mantic undead, but here's his GW undead

This back shot shows how well it shades. I think he used Minwax Tudor (like Dark Tone) for these.

Some boar riders he did also.


A few more from me. Here's some Sedition wars troopers


A pair of neosoviet troopers


If you want to see more, head to the blog in my sig and search for "dip" or "dipped" and you'll see lots of examples of dipped figs. As it's how I do almost all my figs.

 Eilif wrote:
I don't use Quickshade, rather I use Minwax polyshades which is the nearly identical product that people used before Quickshade was "invented". The results are essentially the same.

I've got both Minwax and Quickshade dips. I find the Quickshade to be a bit better at settling into the "cracks" compared to Minwax (but it is far more expensive). Also, I really like the Dark Tone Quickshade for some things, and that one you cannot replicate with the Minwax (the black Minwax makes a solid coat of black).

The Space Marine in this pic was done using the Dark Tone (not the best paintjob, it was just a color scheme test so I didn't care about perfection):

 Tannhauser42 wrote:

I've got both Minwax and Quickshade dips. I find the Quickshade to be a bit better at settling into the "cracks" compared to Minwax (but it is far more expensive). Also, I really like the Dark Tone Quickshade for some things, and that one you cannot replicate with the Minwax (the black Minwax makes a solid coat of black).

Au Contraire my friend. You can replicate Dark Tone with Minwax Polyshades. The "black" polyshades is solid black, but you just have to find somewhere that carries (or order) the "Tudor" shade. I get it at Ace Hardware and it's as close as you could want to "Dark Tone".

The Neo Soviets, Sedition Wars Vangaurd and possibly the Skellies were all done with Tudor. It's become my go-to shade for most things now, though I still use Antique Walnut (aka "Strong Tone") for anything that could use a brown tint.

These were done with quick shade. They are 15 mm

 Eilif wrote:

 Tannhauser42 wrote:

I've got both Minwax and Quickshade dips. I find the Quickshade to be a bit better at settling into the "cracks" compared to Minwax (but it is far more expensive). Also, I really like the Dark Tone Quickshade for some things, and that one you cannot replicate with the Minwax (the black Minwax makes a solid coat of black).

Au Contraire my friend. You can replicate Dark Tone with Minwax Polyshades. The "black" polyshades is solid black, but you just have to find somewhere that carries (or order) the "Tudor" shade. I get it at Ace Hardware and it's as close as you could want to "Dark Tone".

The Neo Soviets, Sedition Wars Vangaurd and possibly the Skellies were all done with Tudor. It's become my go-to shade for most things now, though I still use Antique Walnut (aka "Strong Tone") for anything that could use a brown tint.

Sorry, but for a lot of things, I need actual black, not really dark brown.

Tudor is Black (Dark Tone)
Antique Walnut is Dark Brown (Strong Tone)
Pecan is light brown (Soft Tone)

If you see pictures of Tudor on wood it will usually appear somewhat brown be brown because it is being used on wood. The actual product is a translucent black stain.

I used to use Antique Walnut for everything, but I got the tip for Tudor from Wargamers with much more experience than myself. It works great on anything you don't want to look brown.

For those unfamiliar with Polyshades, it's also appealing to be able to spend $4-7 a can rather than $25.

I'm hoping they have Minwax polyshades here in the Philippines. Need. to. check. Ace. Hardware.

Thanks for posting photos. Keep them coming. From the looks of it it's a good decent way of producing quick results, as indeed advertised. Sure, it may not be high quality but at the very least it is tabletop quality. Sometimes better tabletop quality than most "tabletop quality".

Another resource is to search for "dipping" which is what this is commonly known as.

To make a very long story short, I use minwax bombay mahogony for my tyranids. It gives excellent results, but need to be careful to thin it a bit (I use mineral spirits).

The amrypainter stuff is already thinned, but as others have pointed out, a lot more expensive.

ONE VERY IMPORTANT POINT - do test models first.Get used to the shade, and how it dries what it does.

Finally, if you are looking to add details later, I would suggest instead just using a wash - the army painter inks are actually washes instead of traditional inks, and are great.

best of luck!

Testing out the dips is a very good idea. A great way to do this is on old Heroclix. Lots of folks have extras and many comic stores will sell you the worst of them for a quarter. They tend to have bright base-color paintjobs so you'll get a very good idea of how the various dips look over different colors.

And again, there's a pretty good (if I may toot my own horn) tutorial for brush-dipping in my sig including suggestions for drybrushing after the dip and examples of painted figures.

I love wargaming and I only play with painted minis, but the actual painting of minis is one of my least favorite parts of the hobbies. Dipping has allowed me to paint many times as many figures as before to a very solid Tabletop Standard that is better than my figures used to look and more than enough to make me happy with the results.

I love painting minis... a little too much, I guess. It takes me one million years to finish one single piece because I get very particular about anything. Now it's okay for skirmish games and stuff, but since I want really big battles I need to know a method of producing fast results, even if the quality has to suffer a little (but not too much, I still want them to look good when fielded!).

I still have 47 unpainted infantry (I've already painted 12 cavalry, and 53 infantry), and I'm planning on buying 80 more for my human army. I wouldn't have enough time to paint the Undead I'm planning on buying if I paint at the current rate I'm doing right now.

So how do you thin Minwax Polyshade? Is mineral spirits the only way to thin them? I have no idea what they are or where to buy them, as I have never worked with oil-based substances before.

Dipping is a real godsend when it comes to getting alot of figs done at once. Virtually my entire KoW army is dipped and most units are 20+ miniatures. Here's a batch of 47 Junkers that I did with dip. It would have taken a ridiculous amount of time otherwise, especially for an army that rarely gets played.
http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2012/12/fully-painted-void-junkers-and-neo.html


I usually start by using Polyshades strait from the can, but sometimes if it gets a bit thick after a while I'll thin it a bit. Feel free to experiment until you find the consistency that works for you. Shake well and it's also a good idea to stir the polyshades occasionally when using it strait from the can.

Mineral spirits (Aka turpentine, White Spirit, Petrolium spirits, etc) is what you use, both to thin it and to clean your brush and workspace afterwards. You could probably use Naptha or one of the other similar products that are used to thin oil based paints and finishes, but Mineral Spirits is cheap and effective. You can find it in a big can for little money anywhere that sells paint. See the picture on my blog tutorial.

I don't know what's available in Manila, but Polyshades and Quickshade are a stain+Polyurethane products. The stain is the colorant and the thickness of the Polyurethane is what makes it settle in the particular way that it does and creates the shading, false-highlight and wash type effects. There may be other Stain+Poly products elsewhere in the world but I don't know the brand or product name. You're local paint store can probably tell you.

Best of Luck!

Thanks for the info! i'm actually reading your tutorial right now.

I will see what's available here. I have a few toy soldiers and pirates (read: "liberated" from my nephews) that I can test on. Hopefully we have Minwax here, if not I'll try to find some equivalent product.

 heartserenade wrote:
Thanks for the info! i'm actually reading your tutorial right now.

I will see what's available here. I have a few toy soldiers and pirates (read: "liberated" from my nephews) that I can test on. Hopefully we have Minwax here, if not I'll try to find some equivalent product.

Cool!
Minwax might will settle differently on bare, soft plastic, so if you can spray them white or some other color first, you'll get a better idea of how they will work. Though even without additional paint you'll get some idea.