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Made in us
Waaagh! Warbiker





Hey Everyone,

I recently received a few in a trade, and I've got a few of my own that have come apart over time.I was wondering how everyone handles repairing broken models. (i.e. What glue works best, what techniques do you use, if any, to ensure the repair holds)
I'm guessing it's most likely as simple as scraping off the surface to clear up as much of the old glue as possible (though, I'm not sure if this would work with plastic models when the become melted from plastic/rubber cement glue). I've purchased some Gorilla Glue (which doesn't mention plastic as one of the materials it repairs), Loctite Super-glue and GW's plastic Glue).

Here's the thread that shows the broken models from before...

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/632628.page

Obviously, my goal is to make the repairs as strong as possible. I'm even thinking of adding a small piece of sprue at the joint of the battleWagons' broken wheel-base.

Additionally, I have several types of glue I'm thinking of using for different repairs.

Plastic on Plastic (plastic glue or Loctite Super Glue)
Plastic on Metal (Loctite Super-glue
Metal on Metal- Loctite or Gorilla Glue.

Any help would be appreciated





   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Clean off old glue (especially if superglue or epoxy).
Doesn't really apply to plastic-glued models due to the solvent/melting/welding effect they use.

If it's one of those dodgy ones that crystallise and don't really bond properly, then it will, though.

If metal or resin, PIN and glue.
If larger plastic pieces, pin and reglue. Apply GS or other filler as required in gaps. This can also mean bits of plasticard rod, strip or sheet or even sprue offcuts.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Drilling and pinning, with GS/Miliput/plastic putty to hide the connection will literally fix anything up to but not including the greek economy.

A good long time epoxy like araldite and some normal CA to hold it will ensure it doesn't break again.

Source: am clumsy as hell.
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

Clean and re-glue (with superglue)

When something breaks the first time, it’s good to contemplate pinning. After all, it already failed once, so probably needs a stronger join.

   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Even with plastic I recommend pinning and gluing.

For instance, every one of my GW Lord of the Rings figures with a spear has had the spear broken out of the hand, and the center drilled out and a brass rod inserted about ½" in each direction from the hand.

This has made the figures far more durable (as well as allowing me to make the Gondorian Infantry Spears longer, and closer to their actual movie lengths, which were about 12' long - same thing with the Rohirrim Spears/Lances, which were about 10' long).

But looking at the copter blades, you will need to pin those.

Other plastic parts may need some sheet styrene backing to secure properly.

On the plastic models, you are also going to want some plastic putty (beware of Squadron Green, as it shrinks a LOT, and is more likely to dissolve nearby styrene than is Testor's) to smooth over any joints.

MB
   
 
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