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To stop chips?

I don't seal my models currently...

I think once upon a time I had a can of Purity Seal spray from games workshop but they dont make that anymore

This and if I want to reduce the shine I'll add some dull coat matte varnish to it.

I generally don't.

If you're using a decent basecoat, and reasonable quality acrylic paint, it's not really necessary on plastic models, and only really necessary on metals if you're rough with your models.

Humbrol matt varnish, or Army Painter.
Frankly sealing won't protect very well from chips and scrapes. It protects from sticky paws, dusty shelves and damp, provides a layer to work from if you need to rethink a paint job, protects work if you accidentally catch it with the wrong coloured paint and need to clear that off quickly (I varnish after doing faces)..
But if something decides to knacker your favourite figure, the best protection is foam or leaving it at home to begin with.

 insaniak wrote:
I generally don't.

If you're using a decent basecoat, and reasonable quality acrylic paint, it's not really necessary on plastic models, and only really necessary on metals if you're rough with your models.

Pretty much this.

Outside of the utility varnishes provide during the painting process, I give my models a final coat of varnish primarily for looks. During the painting process, I'll matte or satin varnish as a "save point" between steps; the underlying coat of varnish with withstand isopropyl alcohol to a degree meaning you can fix brush slips easily. I use Future as a gloss varnish for decal work and oil washes as well.

I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy. I use Tamiya gloss coat, then Matte Coat to seal my models. It's probably overkill but hey I'd rather do it than not.

Thank you guys.

If chips are the issue, a good primer will do more to prevent damage than a varnish, which primarily avoids damage by abrasion and/or grubby fingers. I still varnish all my models, though, both for aesthetics and because I'm all about overkill.

Krylon Crystal Clear aerosol has given way to airbrushed Pledge FloorCare for gloss. Testors Dullcote is the gold standard for matte, but I've had decent luck airbrushing the Badger Aztec matte varnish, as well. With the winter we've been having, it's nice to have an indoor-friendly alternative for dulling down the rank and file. Showcase pieces still gt the Dullcoate, though - it really is the nicest finish I've found, to date.

humbrol matte rattlecan. i dunno about these guys saying it doesnt prevent chipping...2 or 3 cured layers on it and i cant even scratch it with a nail

I tend to agree with most said here. Especially the good quality prime. Personally I go more 'belt and suspenders' but I think if you were only going to do one thing, it would be wash the figures in soapy water, rinse in fresh water and allow to dry in the sun before spraying with a quality undercoat. I think THAT would do more to help with chips than anything else.

After all that I THEN seal with a spray lacquer from an artist shop. Costs about 1% of the price of GW/Testors etc for about 5 times as much!

I find a varnish does help quite a bit when it comes to how hard wearing a paint job might be. Especially if you do several layers, my tanks typically get 2 to 3 coats of gloss prior to decals and enamel washes and then 2 to 3 coats of satin and/or matte varnish at the end.

They are pretty tough, it takes quite a bit of force to scrape the paint off them, even in areas that weren't primed (though I do prime, sometimes I miss spots like where the model was blutacked to my spraying stick).

That said, I don't do it to make them tough, I do it to achieve a look (the gloss is necessary for my weathering and decals, the satin is then required to take the shine off).

Even though the OP said "chips", I think the most common method of paint coming off is it rubbing off and varnish definitely helps there. I don't really find myself getting paint chips from impacts.

As others have said, if chipping is happening a lot make sure you use a good primer. Army Painter makes some great ones; I prefer the grey one as a starting base, as the standard GW black is too dark and kills your colors' brightness.


As for sealing, I do it in two steps with amazing results:

1) After I am done painting I apply a watered down coat of GW 'ardcoat over the mini, the base and the base edge. I then allow it to sit for at least 24-48 hours and a nice shiny coat develops over the entire miniature, base and edge.

2) Once the 'ard coat hardens entirely and is completely smooth to the touch, I spray the mini with either Testor's Dullcote, or the Army painter anti-shine.

(After this is when I add tufts of grass)

I find this technique makes the paint layers look nice and uniform, and also produces excellent chipping protection in the mini and base.

I've fortunate with the GW stuff. Just me though

I use Vallejo gloss varnish applied with an airbrush... I also varnish a few times during the painting process due to washes or transfers.

But the main protective layer is 2-3 thin layers of gloss coat with about 24 hours cure time in between and then top of with a coat of satin to get the right finish.