That question is like asking "how long is a piece of string". It depends what paints you are using to begin with, what airbrush you are using with what nozzle size, how close you are spraying and what effect you are trying to create.
I'm sure lots of people will come along with some advice, but my advice when you're just learning would be to start *very* thin, almost watery consistency and work your way up thicker and thicker until you get it right. It's easier doing it this way than starting too thick.
Here's a bit of trouble shooting on getting the right pressure/viscosity/spray distance.
http://blog.workbenchwarriors.com/2014/03/30/getting-started-with-airbrushing-part-2-2/ Personally my technique for thinning is to pick the pressure I want to spray at (based on what technique I'm trying to achieve) and then start thinning/thickening my paint until I'm in the ball park of where I need to be and then I fine tune the pressure to get it perfect.
I'd suggest, especially when you're learning, load up more paint than you'll need and practice on scraps and just keep fiddling around until you start getting the spray you like before you transition to spraying the actual model. Don't practice on absorbent stuff (paper, cardboard, etc) as it it's very different to painting on plastic or resin and so you need different consistency. I usually keep a few pieces of plasticard that I've previously primed near my spray booth to practice on.
It's a battle between having it too thin and creating pools and having it too thick and getting splatter or graininess. And then you have to tweak the pressure as well.
Even once you get half decent at it you have to spend a lot of time practising on scraps if you're using particular difficult techniques, spraying camo on my 15mm scale tanks I spray about 5 times as much paint on my test surfaces to make sure I'm getting a good cone than I do on the actual models

Luckily the Reaver is nice and big so hopefully it won't be quite so tricky!
Also people will tell you "milk like consistency" which I find to be utterly useless because milk has a vastly different surface energy and frankly I've never sprayed milk to know what it sprays like anyway