Switch Theme:

Airbrush cleaning  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in sg
Fleshound of Khorne




Hey guys! I've gotten a fairly cheap airbrush to help with priming and basecoating, I've looked up many guides online and picked up the techniques for cleaning and airbrushing.

I'm really confused that the cleaning solutions used, some people like to use Windex while others would argue that Windex is bad and alcohol is better.
There's ammonia-free Windex available though, has anyone had success with that? From where I am, there's EZAir Airbrush cleaner available but it's pretty expensive.
What are your cleaning solutions used?

Thanks for the responses! It's always a learning journey for me when it comes to painting
   
Made in us
Sure Space Wolves Land Raider Pilot





NYC

CreatEX Airbrush Cleaner get the BIG squeeze bottle. I used almost two big bottles over the past three years.

Also get yourself a little squeeze bottle and fill it with the cleaner so you can have that handy on the side.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

There are any number of products that could be used as cleaners. The thing to remember is that various paint formulas react differently with the various active ingredients in those cleaners. Do your homework, whether that means online research or testing out the combinations, yourself. Shouldn't take too long to find something you're happy enough using.

Alcohol, for example, is warned against when using Vallejo paints, as it turns them into a goopy mess. Other acrylic paints, though, it easily dissolves and flushes away. The fact that most paint brands also sell their own branded cleaner isn't just an attempt to make money by adding another product to their line - each one is formulated specifically to work with their paints. You don't need to buy a specific cleaner for each and every paint you use, of course, but if you find one to be tricky, the cleaner designed for it is a good place to start.

Windex is, as you've heard, a bit contentious. The primary issue is the inclusion of ammonia, which presents two separate problems: First, breathing in a ton of ammonia is bad. Second, ammonia will strip chrome plating, which is used over brass in many airbrush bodies. Both present very real dangers to you and your equipment... in a worst case scenario. A little common sense and proper ventilation (even an open window and a spray jar) mitigates or completely erases the first issue. The second is only risky if you soak the parts in ammonia for a long time. The president of Badger addressed this exact issue, directly, promising that a short soak or flush through the barrel won't hurt the finish, in the least. Spray through a bit of water or another, milder cleaner to clear out any lingering ammonia after using Windex and you're golden.

I've used Windex (with ammonia), isopropyl alcohol (drug store rubbing alcohol, both 70% and 90%), pure EtOH (laboratory-use quality ethanol), windshield washer/wiper fluid (summer formula - not trying to melt ice out of my color cup ), and Vallejo's airbrush cleaner, all to clean several types of acrylic paints and finishes. My findings? All of them work well enough, but none of them are 'magic instant cleaners.' If you can't find an incredibly effective cleaner, just get whatever is cheapest and still works, factoring in your personal comfort level with any inherent safety concerns. For me, that means using the Vallejo cleaner until my test bottle runs out, then going back to using a local grocery store's house brand of window cleaner. I used windshield fluid before that, but kept draining my supply when the car ran low!

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Here is Ken Schlotfeldt of Badger Airbrushes discussing the topic. I queued it up to the relevant chapter, but you may find watching the whole or at least more of it to be rewarding. Use the table of contents in the comments to hop around topics of interest if you can't commit to the full hour...

https://youtu.be/tsW-vN0_lHw?t=1h11m14s

As for me, I use Iwata-Madea Airbrush Cleaner.



   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






Western Massachusetts

A few years agoI switched from using Windex to trying out various airbrush cleaners (Iwata, Golden, Vallejo) and recently switched back to Windex. At the end of all of my experimentation I decided that none of the others were better than the glass cleaner and ALL of them were a lot more expensive.

   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

I just use the Badger Air brush cleaner.. its cheap and comes in a big squeeze bottle. I also use mostly Badger paints through my air brush.

Also don't forget to use needle oil if the manufacturer recommends it for your brush.

 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: