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So yesterday I had been putzing around with my hobby stuff, getting a few things out to do some building.

I put my...case (small converted tackle box), with a few of my finished Tau models in it, on what I *thought* was stable footing. Got my things...came upstairs to work.

Later I heard a loud bang come from the basement.

Yeah....found my box on the ground.

After examining my guys, I found some dislocated arms...a headless guy...and a stealth suit in half at the waist.

I had originally put them together with super glue.

*Not* going to do that in the future....so....

What do you recommend for building the plastic 40k models?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
--and I am getting a *proper* storage/transport box!!

Plastic cement: Revell Contacta, Model Master Plastic Cement, Tamiya Extra Thin

I use Model Masters its thin but it holds like an angry badger

Super Glue. Yes, plastic cement does not break on impact but on the other hand, it doesn't break on impact. So, if the shoulder bit doesn't break, the arm bit will at a place that isn't the juncture. In a way that isn't a small dab of new glue and push it back together. In a way is going to make you glue, repaint, make a lot of effort fixing.

I keep to my superglue and keep a fine detail thing in with my models when transporting in case I need a repair. 'Oh no, dropped a model from the four foot table and he came apart. *glue glue glue* Alright, where were we?' Doesn't ruin my day or even the game turn.

 SharkoutofWata wrote:
Yes, plastic cement does not break on impact but on the other hand, it doesn't break on impact. So, if the shoulder bit doesn't break, the arm bit will at a place that isn't the juncture.

What are you doing to your poor models? No mere 'table to floor' drop should shatter 1/8" thick styrene limbs... unless you then step on it, of course, at which point your choice of glue becomes irrelevant.

 SharkoutofWata wrote:

I keep to my superglue and keep a fine detail thing in with my models when transporting in case I need a repair. 'Oh no, dropped a model from the four foot table and he came apart. *glue glue glue* Alright, where were we?' Doesn't ruin my day or even the game turn.

Lol! This exact thing happened to me (the model in question was a DA Space Marine Scout). I always take my glue and an x-acto knife when I take my army to the LGS for a game. I think of it as my "field surgeon pack".

 oadie wrote:

 SharkoutofWata wrote:
Yes, plastic cement does not break on impact but on the other hand, it doesn't break on impact. So, if the shoulder bit doesn't break, the arm bit will at a place that isn't the juncture.

What are you doing to your poor models? No mere 'table to floor' drop should shatter 1/8" thick styrene limbs... unless you then step on it, of course, at which point your choice of glue becomes irrelevant.

I honestly don't know what styrene is. If that's plastic or resin... I'm pretty sure it's not metal. And using 40k Eldar where the guns taper off ridiculously thin, I'm much happier if my little infantry turret breaks at where the gun slots into the main body of the model instead of along the thin plastic of the barrel itself. Or the wings of my Sanguinary Guard break away from the body instead of bending and warping. Or the wings of my Hive Tyrant popping out of socket instead of bending.

Oadie probably means polystyrene -- specifically high impact polystyrene (HIPS), which is what your wraithknight is made of.

I really can't recommend it enough. Your models are more likely to snap anywhere but where you glued them together. Only problem is it cements within a second, so you had best get it right the first time around. (if you use a little too much, it takes a few seconds, so I sometimes do that. It still comes out rock solid)

What brand superglue did you use? Not all are created equal. I can vouch for the Loctite brand.

Plastic cement (Testors, Revell, avoid GW) is good too. The nice things about plastic cement is it can slightly fill gaps and it allows a few seconds where you can reposition the joint. You can glue it, put it down, decide if you like the pose and alter it if you don't. Superglue just doesn't do that, it dries too quickly and then the only way to fix it is to snap it off, clean the joint and glue it again.

That and plastic glue doesn't break. Some people will tell you not to use plastic glue because you can't snap arms off and change weapons... in the nearly 20 years I've been collecting I've never wanted to snap arms off the models that I've already painted. Obviously some people really enjoy snapping the arms off their models, after I've spent a couple of hours painting a model I have little to no desire to do that and will be more inclined just to buy a new model if I desperately need a different load out.

Age is also a factor - if, when you open the bottle, your eyes don't start tearing up then chuck the bottle away. All the super has leaked out.

 bubber wrote:
All the super has leaked out.

It's all very technical, and others might not understand the importance of super to glue ratio, but basically Bubber is a scientist and knows his stuff.

My friend hates Loctite, but he works in a place where he can get industrial glue.

I can vouch for Loctite - glued my Flyrant together with it. It still stays in one piece, right up to the point my cat knocked it on the ground. But really, no amount of glue can protect it from...the floor

This is what I used

Plastic models, plastic glue. Don't bother with the crappy GW stuff though. I use Testor's Model Masters with the metal tip.

Super glue wise

i go Gorilla super glue with the blue cap i dont know why but its the best one iv ever used

Plastic cement wise

in a special syringe

instant bonding is awesome for plastics.

Anyone ever use Fallers?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I went with the Model Master....going to get here sooner..thanks guys!

If the model is plastic I'll use cement (plastic glue) as intended. It's stronger then the brittle super glue because it's actually a chemical that melts the plastic and create a weld it also gives you some time to position before it sets. Don't gob the stuff on. Finecast resins will get the super glue treatment. I don't think the cement even reacts with it, or maybe it melts too fast, not sure. Test with the sprues I guess.