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Made in us
Commoragh-bound Peer




Nuevo, CA

Hello, I'm still new to this hobby compared to most people here, and I would like a few pointers on painting.

What is a good white spray paint primer? I've tried using a white Valdspar spray paint, but when I began painting my models the primer began to fall off. What kind do you guys use?

What is a good sealant? I'm not sure if that is the correct term, but I'm referring to a transparent coat of liquid that protects the paint on a model. I've been using Citadel Purity Seal, but that gives my models a sort of white "frosted" appearance. What are some good alternatives?

   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

Krylon Flat Black primer is excellent and inexpensive for a primer.

Testor's Dullcote is really the only thing you should consider when it comes to sealing models. Unless you want a gloss coat, then you could use either Future or Testor's Glosscote.
   
Made in gb
Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes






I've always used GW sparys and they've always worked fine for me and I've never had to use anything on my models after.
What I will say though is I have heard of people who clean their models with some soapy water before spraying to remove any oils. Though this is necessary for forge world models I have never cleaned a plastic model before spraying and had no problems. Also make sure you give the can a good shake before spraying and leave the can in the area you are going to spray before you do to allow it to adjust to the temperature; the rapid change in temperature (warm can in cold room or vice versa) could cause problems.

Did you know? Every sunday from 12 to 5 pm you can get a carvery for £6.95 at the pudding and pye.

 
   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

I use GW primers.

If you are getting a chalky look for the GW sealer its because you are letting them air dry.

In order for the GW Purity seal to work correctly. You need to spray the model, at the correct temperature of where you are spraying them, and immediately pick up a blower dryer and blow dry them until they are dry. You maybe able to use a heat gun but be careful because that gets way hotter. You shouldn't get the chalky look anymore.

Also make sure you are not spraying the Purity seal to close to the model.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/04/16 15:45:09


 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

Or you could just use a quality product that doesn't fog at the drop of a hat for a fraction of GW's prices.
   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

 Todosi wrote:
Or you could just use a quality product that doesn't fog at the drop of a hat for a fraction of GW's prices.


Can you name the brand? I would love to try and find a cheaper solution? So far ive tried Army Painter and their spray sucks compared to GW.

 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator





Pittsburgh, PA, USA

Pop into Walmart, head to the paint section, and find yourself their Color Place white primer. It's 96 cents. If buying cheap primer really frightens you, in that same aisle, you can probably find a Krylon white primer. While you're looking at the Krylon section, buy yourself some Krylon matte sealer. It's spendy, tho: $3.49. So, you may have to come back after payday. Seriously, don't buy GW primer or sealers. They're waaaay over-priced and aren't made of anything special.

As for your primer problem, make sure your models are clean. Paint failure is almost always a result of a poorly prepped surface. I have sweaty hands, so after I finish assembling and prepping my models, I'll often give them a quick wash in warm soapy water and let them air dry. Also, be aware of the air's relative humidity. Spraying when it's damp or humid outside will cause all sorts of problems.

I've been painting metal, resin, and plastic miniatures using these cheaper alternatives for years with no problems.

   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

 Weiner_Warrior134 wrote:
I've been using Citadel Purity Seal, but that gives my models a sort of white "frosted" appearance. What are some good alternatives?

There are some elements that can cause the frosty effect with any varnish... Most come down to moisture and temperature.
How long are you waiting after finishing painting to seal? To be safest, wait for the next day with your model somewhere warm and dry.
Try to make sure the place you're straying in is not humid or cold and damp.
Really really shake the can. if you've been using it for a while and not shaken it properly, your end effect will suffer.


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Made in us
Commoragh-bound Peer




Nuevo, CA

Hmm,the_Armyman, I have bought the 96 cent black paint from WalMart for primer, but I never thought about using the white.

As for the Krylon matte sealer, is it called "Krylon Clear Matte Finish"?

   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

 the_Armyman wrote:
Pop into Walmart, head to the paint section, and find yourself their Color Place white primer. It's 96 cents. If buying cheap primer really frightens you, in that same aisle, you can probably find a Krylon white primer. While you're looking at the Krylon section, buy yourself some Krylon matte sealer. It's spendy, tho: $3.49. So, you may have to come back after payday. Seriously, don't buy GW primer or sealers. They're waaaay over-priced and aren't made of anything special.

As for your primer problem, make sure your models are clean. Paint failure is almost always a result of a poorly prepped surface. I have sweaty hands, so after I finish assembling and prepping my models, I'll often give them a quick wash in warm soapy water and let them air dry. Also, be aware of the air's relative humidity. Spraying when it's damp or humid outside will cause all sorts of problems.

I've been painting metal, resin, and plastic miniatures using these cheaper alternatives for years with no problems.


I heard from other painters that those kinds of primers are awful to use because the way it works... when you spray and it dry the paint actually expands covering up detail. While with the GW type primer when it dries it shrinks exposing more detail.

I have seen people use Krylon primer before and it looked awful, granted it looked like they were spraying way to close and put on one thick coat lol.

 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator





Pittsburgh, PA, USA

Weiner_Warrior134 wrote:Hmm,the_Armyman, I have bought the 96 cent black paint from WalMart for primer, but I never thought about using the white.

As for the Krylon matte sealer, is it called "Krylon Clear Matte Finish"?


The one I have is in a white can with a clear cap. It's called ColorMaster Acrylic Crystal Clear. 11 oz spray can product #53530 for the Flat variety. Also comes in Satin and Gloss.

Snoopdeville3 wrote:
 the_Armyman wrote:
Pop into Walmart, head to the paint section, and find yourself their Color Place white primer. It's 96 cents. If buying cheap primer really frightens you, in that same aisle, you can probably find a Krylon white primer. While you're looking at the Krylon section, buy yourself some Krylon matte sealer. It's spendy, tho: $3.49. So, you may have to come back after payday. Seriously, don't buy GW primer or sealers. They're waaaay over-priced and aren't made of anything special.

As for your primer problem, make sure your models are clean. Paint failure is almost always a result of a poorly prepped surface. I have sweaty hands, so after I finish assembling and prepping my models, I'll often give them a quick wash in warm soapy water and let them air dry. Also, be aware of the air's relative humidity. Spraying when it's damp or humid outside will cause all sorts of problems.

I've been painting metal, resin, and plastic miniatures using these cheaper alternatives for years with no problems.


I heard from other painters that those kinds of primers are awful to use because the way it works... when you spray and it dry the paint actually expands covering up detail. While with the GW type primer when it dries it shrinks exposing more detail.

I have seen people use Krylon primer before and it looked awful, granted it looked like they were spraying way to close and put on one thick coat lol.


The spray nozzles on every manufacturer are different. So, there's always going to be a learning curve with a new brand. That said, I've never seen any details being obscured by normal use of the product. In fact, I tend to give my models multiple coats of both gloss and flat during the painting process, and I've never had build-up or loss of detail.

Most if not all of the stuff in my gallery is cheap Walmart primer and Krylon sealers. None of it looks like crap in my humble opinion

   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

 Snoopdeville3 wrote:
 Todosi wrote:
Or you could just use a quality product that doesn't fog at the drop of a hat for a fraction of GW's prices.


Can you name the brand? I would love to try and find a cheaper solution? So far ive tried Army Painter and their spray sucks compared to GW.


I did, above. Krylon flat or ultra flat black primer and Testor's Dullcote.

For the record, GW's primer actually used to be Krylon with a GW label on it.
   
Made in us
Mounted Kroot Tracker






I wouldn't use anything but Testors dullcoat. Simply avoid GW sealing products/purity seal. It may work great at its "correct temperature", but that's too questionable a factor for me to trust my work with. Dullcoat is A+ one hundred percent of the time. Spray and play baby...


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Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Another option for sealing is a brush on matte varnish. I use "Winsor Newton Galleria Acrylic Matte Varnish". It's an established product for artists that's available at almost any art supply store and is very affordable.

It's not going to be quite as sturdy as a harder coat, but it's easy to apply at your desk in any weather and won't cloud or frost. 2 coats will provide more than enough protection. It can also be used to get rid of the shine for folks who like to put a gloss varnish spray or use a quickshade or polyshades dip, all of which are extremely tough protectants, but leave a glossy finish.

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