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Hi there;

I'm about to start for the 3rd time a Blood Angels army (yep,I'm THAT kind of dude), I have some experience in messing stuff up and stripping and gluing and broking and swearing and cursing and selling everything again.
Now thought,I'm thinking a bit ahead and I would like to have some suggestion to get the best out of my army.
In this first order I got :

1 razorback
Lemartes
1 DC company
1 tactical squad.

Considering that I will start assembling and playn this for a couple of mont,I was thinking how and what to magnetize.
For my knowledge the razorback,being rhino based,can have the turret magnetized,but what about the sponson?and what about FW doors and front plate?
Same for the infantry, I will most definitely magnetize the jump packs and the normal packs,but what about the weapons? Shall I pin 'em? And what if I want to make out 2 tactical squad from one box,can I get 2 sergeants? How and what you magnetize if you want to have an heavy weapon on a marine?

I thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.
Sharing is caring!
Cheers

Rhino chassis can be fully magnetized to be a Rhino, Razorback or Predator. Side sponsons/doors are no sweat. If you want to magnetize the front for making him a Vindicator, that's a bit different. But just google it, there's a pretty good tutorial for that, too.

Backpacks/Jump packs: no problem. Use the exisiting hole in the backpack/jump pack for 1 magnet, cut of the thing on the torso and drill there.

Infantry: magnetize at the wrist with a 2mm magnet. Fits perfectly. For heavy weapons, put a magnet in the shoulders, in both arms and the glue the arms with the heavy weapon together. Backpack same as above. For CC weapons, I would also put magnets in the shoulders, as you will want different arms for those.
For an additional Sergeant, either magnetize the head (do-able) or put together an extra one.

 Hanskrampf wrote:
Rhino chassis can be fully magnetized to be a Rhino, Razorback or Predator. Side sponsons/doors are no sweat. If you want to magnetize the front for making him a Vindicator, that's a bit different. But just google it, there's a pretty good tutorial for that, too.

Backpacks/Jump packs: no problem. Use the exisiting hole in the backpack/jump pack for 1 magnet, cut of the thing on the torso and drill there.

Infantry: magnetize at the wrist with a 2mm magnet. Fits perfectly. For heavy weapons, put a magnet in the shoulders, in both arms and the glue the arms with the heavy weapon together. Backpack same as above. For CC weapons, I would also put magnets in the shoulders, as you will want different arms for those.
For an additional Sergeant, either magnetize the head (do-able) or put together an extra one.

Thanks! One question thought,ain't easier and time saving pinning with a paper clip the infantry?

 Emicrania wrote:

Thanks! One question thought,ain't easier and time saving pinning with a paper clip the infantry?

Don't know exactly what you mean with that. I know pinning only in combination with glueing, e.g. drilling in an arm, glueing a paperclip in it, drilling in the shoulder, stick the arm with the paperclip in it and glue it together.
That's only for support if the parts keep falling apart and not for making models with changeable weapons.

You can use pins with only one side glued in place to make parts removable/swappable. The downside is that there's no inward pull, as there is with a magnet - parts that aren't supported by both the pin and the surface they're mating with are liable to spin, pop off, etc. For that reason, it's much more practical for head swaps and top-mounted weapon turrets (where gravity keeps the parts together and the pin simply stops them from shifting horizontally) than things like arms or sponsons. For those, I'd either use magnets or a combination of a pin (to take the weight) and a smaller magnet (to keep it in place).

Yes,I was thinking something like drilling an hole in each weapon and than just glue a clip wire in the arm of the marines,but if that is not reliable I can go with the magnets.
2mm*1 is good? If I'm not wrong the N35 should be the best,right?

2x1mm would work for small or medium plastic weapons, if you're swapping at the hand or wrist. Whole arms or particularly large weapons would likely need something bigger and stronger, or a combination of the smaller magnet and a pin.

As for the grading of magnets, bigger numbers are stronger. N35 is just fine for some applications (which is good, as they're cheaper), but most opt for N42. As they become cheaper and more readily available, some are switching to N52, but I don't think they're worth the increased cost, personally.

Ali sells magnet pretty cheap, I just would like to buy the best

In that case, go for N42. N52, if they have them.

3mm than it is

I wouldn't bother magnetizing the top of a Rhino/Razorback.

The only difference is the top doors/turrent. On the Rhino version, glue the two doors to each other, and sit it on top of the chassis. On the Razorback version, just seat the rectangular piece the turret sits on right onto the same spot.

Don't bother magnetizing the storm bolter; nobody will care -- or just put on the radar dish. But if you want 2 variants, simply use the other round top on the top, and again, don't glue it in (sit it on top).

Obviously, buy the Razorback kit, if you want to do this.

Done. I was wondering about the FW kit,do you glue it ON TOP of the old doors and front or..?