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Hello all, I'm assuming a question like this would go here but admittedly I'm not entirely sure. Anyways, I recently bought some decal paper to make some Angels of Absolution decals but I'm an idiot and did not buy any decal bonder. What I do have is the GW Purity Seal spray. So I was wondering if anyone knew if that would be an alright alternative or not. I did not want to test it myself due to not wanting to waste and sheets in case it didn't work. Thank!

No. You need a gloss varnish, some sort of decal solvents, and a decent top coat (Matt or satin). Purity seal is the devils peckersnot, so save yourself some fairly inevitable heartache and ditch it in favour of testors dull coat or a cheap airbrush setup.

Also, read http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Use micrsol and microset from the decals. I am not sure why ^ said not to use purity seal, maybe he can say why exactly. I use it all the time and works great, but I don't use decals ever. If you use just purity seal and the decals, you can really easily pick out the translucent line from the decals once the seal dries and makes the decals look awful.

I have also found the "cheap" airbrush setup ( I tried badger minitaire) made my model look a lot glossier then I wanted, even though it said flat.

Purity Seal has a deservedly terrible reputation for reliable, good finish. I've heard and experienced enough with it to issue a 'do not use' warning. There is very little worse than having your topcoat ruin a good week's work because it's unreliable. Note; this is indoor work, air conditioned, no humidity issues, no variance in environment or shaking, or even can temperature. The only variable was the Purity Seal. It is definitely bad. Unfortunately, sometimes you can only tell as it dries.

Testor's Dullcote has a good reputation in comparison - I know many people who use it exclusively. Personally, I prefer the control, reliability and efficiency of airbrushing varnishes. To get a flatter finish, ensure your varnish is thoroughly mixed (the matting agent is usually a wax, and is heavy so it settles), or use a flatter varnish - an 8:2 - 7:3 mix of Klear/Future to Tamiya X-21 (I think) Flat Base goes on pretty flat. Kills metals though, so I usually run with satin finishes.

A coat of spray varnish will keep the ink from running off the decal paper during soaking/application. Keep it relatively thin, otherwise the usual solvents will have trouble getting the thicker, harder sheet of decal+varnish to conform to the desired surface.

Anything labeled as a "decal bonder" is likely just a spray varnish targeted (at a markup) at the home decal printing hobbyist. I've seen actual decal paper manufacturers suggest using regular old spray acrylic varnish, as well as experienced users.