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Anyone know of any good guides for salt weathering? I’ve seen some pics here and there and would like to try it with some terrain.
I’m assuming you just spray down a base color, sprinkle on some water then coarse salt and then spray on the top color, and then you can wash the salt away and it looks weathered? Will it wash away good with regular spray paint or do you need an airbrush? Can you use regular table salt for finer weathering grains too or will it be too small and not wash off good?
Noice! gonna have to try it. I have a big box of mantic ruined battlezones and I wanna give them a old, rusted out kind of look. I don't have an airbrush though :( but I like that sponge technique he was doing too
queen_annes_revenge wrote: You dont really need an airbrush, although it does help. You remove the salt with a toothbrush or something else, not the airbrush
Yea, but it is hard to apply the paint with a brush over the salt without knocking it off. You can use rattle cans though, provided it is just terrain, but an airbrush makes it really work easily.
Cool.. I'd like to get an airbrush but I'd want a good one and it's out of my price range right now. I dug my old one out of storage and it was ruined, apparently I didn't clean it good when I put it away 20 years ago.
I was planning to just do a base coat of krylon red primer that I use for all of my rusty base coats like for my necrons and now my AdMech, and then do the salt thing and spray on some gray primer. I figured the gray primer would be thinner than regular spray paint and easier to brush off
I have done the salt method before and use to have a write up about it on my old blog. I did not use an airbrush only spray paint from Army painter with Kosher Sea Salt and a spray bottle of water.
Heres some pics of the method, but is simple enough to do. Spray on a metal paint color, wait for it to dry, then spray a light mist on the model and apply salt. I misted a second time and used table salt to create smaller paint chips. Then once it dried I applied a coat of paint with a spray can. Then allowed to dry completly and used an old large brush to softly break away the salt. Any spot thats the salt stayed were hit with water from the facet and then I went into detailing.
I'm assuming the reverse would work too, like if you did the "top" color as your base coat and rust color over the salt? I have a few pieces I already primed gray, so I thought I'd try that rather than giving it a whole extra spray coat and risk losing some detail
Need to find a good ink wash I can get in bulk too. Army painter makes big cans but it's oil based. I used to use some minwax water based wood stains but they don't seem to make em anymore or at least it's not sold at any hardware stores I've been to.
$80 is more than I wanted to spend (I was looking for around $30-40) but this one is 80% off right now and looks like a heluva deal, wondering if it's worth getting? Any airbrush folks know? Hesitant because I still need to buy an air compressor, and a whole bunch of airbrush paints too (don't wanna try and water down my own since I'm still a noob).
Been thinking a lot more about the salt technique and I'd also like to do it for monsters too, might make a cool patchy colored skin look, so I think I'd like to use an airbrush for that since they'll be small minis and I'll need more control than a spray can
That Sotar 2020 is a great brush. Not sure why these things are going so cheap on Amazon, but they are. Some speculation I hear is they are re-packs or something. Honestly, that price is crazy good for that caliber of brush. I say grab it, since a "starter" brush is often about that much, give or take. Totally worth it. You won't find anything near this value for $30-40... or any good brush, actually.
Also, for thinning paints, use Liquitex Airbrush Medium. Not hard to do, honestly. That way, you can use your paints and not need to get "airbrush paints", which often still require thinning anyhow!
Oh .. fooey. I was planning to just get some of the valejo airbrush paints to get started and thought I'd be all set. I saw Forge World just released some, but I think for the gravity feed kind of brush the dropper bottle would be more convenient.
I was reading the reviews and people keep saying that it's a brush for fine detailing.. I guess it would be OK for minis but if I wanted to paint a big building or tank would it not be good for larger areas?
Necros wrote: Oh .. fooey. I was planning to just get some of the valejo airbrush paints to get started and thought I'd be all set. I saw Forge World just released some, but I think for the gravity feed kind of brush the dropper bottle would be more convenient.
I was reading the reviews and people keep saying that it's a brush for fine detailing.. I guess it would be OK for minis but if I wanted to paint a big building or tank would it not be good for larger areas?
Probably not ideal. It has a pretty small nozzle. I think .2mm or some such. Mine is an Iwata HP-CS .35mm and I can do big areas and somewhat fine lines, but not as fine as the Sotar.
Also, even Vallejo paints need thinning. Probably so do the Forge World ones. Liquitex is nice and easy. Just get a pipette for it and play with ratios until you get a good flow, such as like a 2:1 Paint:Thinner ratio.
hmm.. yeah I want to get something that will be good for both. I haven't touched an airbrush in over 20 years so I don't expect to be doing super detail work till I get used to it. Was also looking at this one
Water is not good to thin with. I use Liquitex Airbrush Medium. That is what us was made for. No idea on that airbrush, but the adage about getting what you pay for is almost always true.
I always recommend TCP Global and Chicago Airbrush for good prices on bundles. Iwata HP-CS or Badger Krome are good starter brushes with longevity.
Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children 
