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Hello
So I enjoy painting models, as I'm sure you all do. When it comes to painting eyeballs for my Chaos Space Marine army I give them a red iris with black pupils, the way I achieved the perfect eye is by getting a cheap and nasty fine detail brush (000 size preferably) and apply super glue to the bristles, this knackers the brush in all respects other than painting eyes, the stiff bristles ensure that you can apply a pinhead drop of paint into the models eyes with the brush fraying or bending and it achieves really good results so much so that I can add light glare in the eyes.

It seems weird but it works great.

So. Glue not at the tip then? But a little bit in?

Any chance of a picture?

Must say I am intrigued and am thinking of trying it.

/Farstrand

Ditto. I use something similar for small areas, but never that detailed. When I've got a paintbrush on the way out, I use it a few more times, but don't clean it out properly, and then I can use them as a hard application tool.

 Farstrand wrote:
So. Glue not at the tip then? But a little bit in?

Any chance of a picture?

Must say I am intrigued and am thinking of trying it.

/Farstrand

Hey, no. the entire brush needs to be stiff to the point where you have no bend what so ever, I experimented with a load of brushes I bought at a carboot sale and everything but the full gluing just frays and splits the bottom and you lose the stability and the confidence to apply great detail to an incredible small area goes completely.

Just my 2¢

I think you can only go so far with pin or 'knackered brush'. Doing it the old fashioned way with steadiness and good brush load/control is the ideal way imo.

I recommend winston sable series 7 waterbrush & miniature brush sets.

When working on small details, I usually work with paint that is very watered down. The brush is then tested on a palette or my thumb, for gauging the load - assessing the appropriate paint/water ratio and amount on the brush. sometimes this may mean you are literally transferring a bubble of water with the pigment, but it'll dry in a very smooth clean way. Sometimes multiple coats may be necessary - depending on the colour. Eyes usually need less water for the coat.

Make sure you brace your wrists on something to help with steadiness. When I have to get serious on miniature in this way, I usually hunch to where my hands/wrists are resting on the edge of the table.

I've also come to realize that humidity in the environment may help brush spread (keeping the paint moist). I have yet to test this, but I reckon it would help a lot.

Couldnt you use a pin in the first place?

 Zognob Gorgoff wrote:
Couldnt you use a pin in the first place?

I've actually found a lot of pins are too big. Plus its tough to get just that tip to apply paint, its not exactly the best implement for painting.

 KillMaimBurn96 wrote:


Hello
So I enjoy painting models, as I'm sure you all do. When it comes to painting eyeballs for my Chaos Space Marine army I give them a red iris with black pupils, the way I achieved the perfect eye is by getting a cheap and nasty fine detail brush (000 size preferably) and apply super glue to the bristles, this knackers the brush in all respects other than painting eyes, the stiff bristles ensure that you can apply a pinhead drop of paint into the models eyes with the brush fraying or bending and it achieves really good results so much so that I can add light glare in the eyes.

It seems weird but it works great.

This is a really cool idea. I have tried doing stuff with a toothpick or pin, but I have a tendency to gouge the eye instead of applying paint. I could see this being a little more forgiving. It would also make for a great way to put extremely fine lines on a model. I may have to try this for putting the lightning on my Librarian's palm.

This is a pretty good suggestion. I may just try it (I've been just not doing eyes as the few times I've tried I've mostly failed miserably). This post should probably be moved to the P&M section so it can be found easier!

 Grey Templar wrote:

 Zognob Gorgoff wrote:
Couldnt you use a pin in the first place?

I've actually found a lot of pins are too big. Plus its tough to get just that tip to apply paint, its not exactly the best implement for painting.

I suppose it would dry fast if only applied to the very tip, just the op's description in essence sounded like turning a brush hard with super glue would result in, well a not absorbent spike, ie pin.
will have to try out a few methods for my self. I dont normally mind doing eyes tho. Hand steadiness varies greatly, some people struggle, my partner gets me to do the fiddly bits of her models often maybe this could help her, probably more my best mate his hands shake terribly, i always feel bad he tries very hard but with such a shake what can you do apart from brace as best as possible.

hmm wondering what very fine wire like copper electrical wire would be like its stiff and blunt ended.