Switch Theme:

40k protecting painted metal models  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





Ohio

So I have a few imperial guard models that are metal and I've painted a couple and based them with some clear coat but they still chip. I've also tried the lahmium medium coat that gw has. What I'm also looking for is a finish that won't make the models look shiny. One model I sprayed and now he looks all shiny. Also where can I get so call item.

Thanks for the help

 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Nothing will guarantee they don't chip, just put on a lot of layers of gloss varnish, then follow it with a matte varnish to remove the shine
   
Made in us
Honored Helliarch on Hypex





Back in GA

A good three step process is gloss coat, flat coat, dull coat. You live in the U.S. So all these products should be available. First go to hobby lobby or michaels and get some Krylon Crystal clear. Spray this on the model but not in a super heavy coat. Too thick in one spraying can brown up the model (several clear coats have this effect). The clear coat provides a good hard finish that will limit chipping. Next step is a good flat coat to take away the shine. Recently it has been harder to find a good flat (NOT MATTE!!) but Army Painter has a "anti shine that works in thin coats and testers has recently come out with a flat coat (not dull coat). In high humidity these can "dust the model. If the dusting is not bad don't worry. Last step is testers dull coat. It will take some of the flat away and light dust issues.

I have been using this process for 12 years now with great results. I have 4rth edition eldar (mostly metal except for the dire avengers and vehicles) and still have minimal chipping. You would think I painted the snipers recently but it was seven or eight years ago and with heavy play heh.

All these items can be found at a local hobby lobby except for the Army Painter anti shine but you can find that online or at some local,game stores. Let me know how it works for you.

Edit: one more thing to add is make sure you are using a good primer. Wrong primer that does not bond to the metal and no matter what you clear coat with, it will still chip. I like the krylon primers but recently these seem to have changed formula so test first.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/21 00:00:44


I do what the voices in my wifes head say...
 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






I think testors Dullcote is pretty good.

If you are doing a lot of models, though (dozens or more) I think that it's way cheaper to use an airbrush.

A critical step in metal models, however, is primer. Remember, if your primer won't come off, the paint on it will survive a lot better.

Because of this, I really let my primer coats cure (at least days, if not weeks) before painting metal models or surface terrain (like game boards).
   
Made in au
Elite Tyranid Warrior





Brisbane

kb_lock wrote:
Nothing will guarantee they don't chip, just put on a lot of layers of gloss varnish, then follow it with a matte varnish to remove the shine


This. An emphasis on a lot. Do one thin coat, then another, then another. Let the previous coat dry (about an hour or so) before the next.

Get your models on the table and looking good!


My Armies: Dark Angels: 4500 points - Hive Fleet Verloren: 7500 points
 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





A big thing with metals is to wash them before you paint them. Wash them in warm water with some dish soap to get off any release agents AND to get off any oils from your hands (so wash them and avoid handling them before priming them). Make sure you use a decent spray primer.

 Talys wrote:
Because of this, I really let my primer coats cure (at least days, if not weeks) before painting metal models or surface terrain (like game boards).
You only have to do that if you're having troubles with paint rubbing off while you're painting.

But it depends on the primer as well I guess. Something like Vallejo's PU primer likes to have ages to cure.
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






@Skink - yeah, I should clarify. I use polyurethane primer to cure on metal, because it rubs off otherwise. Ironically, this is one of the reasons my metal infinity models take forever to get painted: I prime them, then have moved to something else by the time they are cured.

I use P3 rattle cans on game boards, because I want it to be as hardy as possible. Also, because I don't have a large enough spray booth to fit a 2x2 game board with an airbrush LOL (though yes, I could airbrush it outside).
   
Made in us
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





Ohio

Thanks for all the replies I will certainly try some of these out and see what works best!

 
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

The other thing is to handle your figures carefully. Store them so they don't get banged up, for example in foam rubber, and pick them up by the base if you can.

I'm writing a load of fiction. My latest story starts here... This is the index of all the stories...

We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: