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Searching for cheap casting method at the moment, i tried hot glue, which was fun, but the end result cannot be sanded which is bad, tried basic putty, look promising, but take too long to dry and is collapsing at the moment cause the inside is still soft, also are trying epoxy putty, but i think they are too expensive for mass production, might try body filler cause with the hardener, its self heal, what do you guys think?? I heard some people use fiber glass resin, but i heard they are quite volatile if use on large quantity together.......

Resign for larger batches would be best,

for small pieces i use greenstuff or 2 compound curing putty. But really it depends on what you are used to using. I quite like green stuff even though it never gets super hard.

Working with fibreglass and resin can become a very messy affair very quickly. And if you don't mix your cattalyst right one of two things can happen.
#1 your mould will take forever to harden (if it hardens all the way)
#2 it can harden very fast and this causes a lot ...a lot ...a lot of heat that will damage the mould.
That's just my opinion from fixing my surfboards in the past. And cleaning up is crap work to top it off. Hope that helps as far as fibreglass and resin goes.but as all things go - practice makes perfect.

I haven't tried using body filler as a casting material, but I feel like it wouldn't do a good job with small details, either not filling the small details or being too brittle and small details just breaking off. But I haven't tried it, that's just my guess. It does tend to cure quite hot, but so do a lot of casting resins so I'm not sure if that would be a problem

KINGPIN54 wrote:
Working with fibreglass and resin can become a very messy affair very quickly. And if you don't mix your cattalyst right one of two things can happen.
#1 your mould will take forever to harden (if it hardens all the way)
#2 it can harden very fast and this causes a lot ...a lot ...a lot of heat that will damage the mould.
That's just my opinion from fixing my surfboards in the past. And cleaning up is crap work to top it off. Hope that helps as far as fibreglass and resin goes.but as all things go - practice makes perfect.

I believe the OP means just using the resin without the fibreglass. ie. Using a laminating resin as a casting resin.

Normally you'd just buy a specific casting resin. Casting resins and laminating resins can be very similar (laminating resins are typically polyester resins or epoxy resins the same as casting resins) but are formulated to achieve slightly different properties.

Don't know if you get a product overseas called "rock-set" itsd a very fine powder that you simply mix with water into a paste. It hardens very well. I used it to make moulds for casting lead coins. Its a anchoring system if I'm not mistaken. Have not tried it on minis though.

Are you talking about a substitute for the mould material or for the casting material?

People make simple one piece press moulds out of green stuff. It has that bit of flexibility that makes it easier to get the casting out.

 Kilkrazy wrote:
Are you talking about a substitute for the mould material or for the casting material?

People make simple one piece press moulds out of green stuff. It has that bit of flexibility that makes it easier to get the casting out.

I meant casting material

Casting material:

http://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Casting-Products-Alumilite-Strength/dp/B004BNA6VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444746475&sr=8-1&keywords=alumilite+high+strength

Highly flexible, cures overnight, picks up details extremely well. HIGHLY recommend the high strength over their other type, as their other silicone rubber mold dries rigid, and is hard to get detailed pieces out.

Resin (what goes in the cast):

http://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Super-Plastic-Casting-Resin/dp/B004BN81SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1444746578&sr=8-4&keywords=alumilite++resin

Low viscosity, dries quickly.

Have used both many times.

I personally found 2-part green stuff molds to be very poor quality. Though, depending on what you're trying to cast it might not be an issue.

What are you trying to reproduce?

Just took out the epoxy putty, still think its curing though, but the result is promising, except the copy has some imperfection, itch marks here and there....... i am using silicon rubber ice maker to do my experiment with by the way.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Kap'n Krump wrote:
Casting material:

http://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Casting-Products-Alumilite-Strength/dp/B004BNA6VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444746475&sr=8-1&keywords=alumilite+high+strength

Highly flexible, cures overnight, picks up details extremely well. HIGHLY recommend the high strength over their other type, as their other silicone rubber mold dries rigid, and is hard to get detailed pieces out.

Resin (what goes in the cast):

http://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Super-Plastic-Casting-Resin/dp/B004BN81SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1444746578&sr=8-4&keywords=alumilite++resin

Low viscosity, dries quickly.

Have used both many times.

I personally found 2-part green stuff molds to be very poor quality. Though, depending on what you're trying to cast it might not be an issue.

What are you trying to reproduce?

Two major reasons, first I am currently building an oversized/upscaled tank and i need to reproduce some stuffs, include things like tank tracks, and some discs. the second reason is a bit evil, i want to reproduce some models to boost up my army number, for my own use of course, cause i am new to warhammer and i am quite poor actually....

thanks for the link, and will look into it. does this product be concerned with air bubble, the thing that keeps me from doing a proper molding and casting is the air bubble problem, i live in Hong Kong, just don't have the space and the tools to build a vacuum chamber, and order a professional one costs a fortune, plus the chemicals go off quite easily in Hong Kong weather, i would need the professional one cause off chemicals would not affect the products with the professional one. though i learn all this from someone else, so don't know it its for real or not.

 Kap'n Krump wrote:
Casting material:

http://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Casting-Products-Alumilite-Strength/dp/B004BNA6VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444746475&sr=8-1&keywords=alumilite+high+strength

Highly flexible, cures overnight, picks up details extremely well. HIGHLY recommend the high strength over their other type, as their other silicone rubber mold dries rigid, and is hard to get detailed pieces out.

Resin (what goes in the cast):

http://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Super-Plastic-Casting-Resin/dp/B004BN81SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1444746578&sr=8-4&keywords=alumilite++resin

Just a note on the correct lingo. The CAST is the final part. The MOULD is the tool, the thing that you pour material in to in order to make the final casting.

So "casting material" will typically refer to the resin that makes up the final part that you pour in to the mould, the "moulding material" will be the silicone.

Though to make things confusing you often use phrases like "sand casting", but the sand was actually the material that the mould was made from, not what the cast was made from (which is usually metal or something).

Air bubbles honestly can be an issue, but it hasn't really stopped me. The resin is cheap, and if a cast turns out poorly, you can just try again. And small air bubbles can be filled with green stuff.

 Kap'n Krump wrote:

Air bubbles honestly can be an issue, but it hasn't really stopped me. The resin is cheap, and if a cast turns out poorly, you can just try again. And small air bubbles can be filled with green stuff.

what if the bubble occur in the mould, can it be filled with green stuff too?? and how long would the moulding and resin material last where you live?? cause i want to see how long i can keep the chemical.
thanks

Just note that recasting someone else's figures is a violation of copyright.

If you are having problem with your putty taking too long to dry have you considered breaking down the object you are trying to create and then using these broken down pieces to create smaller moulds?

 Kilkrazy wrote:
Just note that recasting someone else's figures is a violation of copyright.

I understand.

Ok...this kind of comes up...a lot, so I would suggest a search.

A lot of people have shared tremendous amounts of knowledge and experience in various posts - it would be worth your time to read them (you are not the first person ....or the 1000th, to want to do this).

However, here is an executive summary:

Unless you are doing some VERY simple pressmolds, there is no such thing as "cheap" and "casting".

I know you might not want to hear that, but that is the case.

I cast a lot of stuff (I am about to cast some custom made bases this weekend, for example) and can say all of the negatives (lack of detail, air bubbles, etc.) are the symptoms of not using the right tool for the right job.

For simple "discs" and tank treads, you might get some decent results from doing press molds, using something like instant mold or some soft press silicons from the craft store.

Greenstuff (or various other putties) is a common use for this (I have tired it myself, for parts I only need one of and where I don't need high quality - extra bits for terrain projects is a perfect example).

However, anything where you need high detail, or any type of undercuts - press molds and putties are going to start showing their shortcomings.

There are also hundreds of videos on youtube on casting, and look also to forums such as resin addict.

Final note: doing this to save money is a losing proposition - as there is quite a bit of 'art' in learning how to make the molds for best results and working with resins (and that does not even count special equipment like pressure pots, vacuum pumps, etc. if you want high quality). There is a very steep learning curve in doing anything of ANY complexity, and with that comes wasting materials which equals cost.

not trying to discourage you from getting into casting - it can be a lot of fun seeing something you made duplicated and then painted up! But just want to set some realistic expectations for someone who thinks casting is a way to cheap (or free) minis.

its not. not even remotely.

davethepak wrote:
Ok...this kind of comes up...a lot, so I would suggest a search.

A lot of people have shared tremendous amounts of knowledge and experience in various posts - it would be worth your time to read them (you are not the first person ....or the 1000th, to want to do this).

However, here is an executive summary:

Unless you are doing some VERY simple pressmolds, there is no such thing as "cheap" and "casting".

I know you might not want to hear that, but that is the case.

I cast a lot of stuff (I am about to cast some custom made bases this weekend, for example) and can say all of the negatives (lack of detail, air bubbles, etc.) are the symptoms of not using the right tool for the right job.

For simple "discs" and tank treads, you might get some decent results from doing press molds, using something like instant mold or some soft press silicons from the craft store.

Greenstuff (or various other putties) is a common use for this (I have tired it myself, for parts I only need one of and where I don't need high quality - extra bits for terrain projects is a perfect example).

However, anything where you need high detail, or any type of undercuts - press molds and putties are going to start showing their shortcomings.

There are also hundreds of videos on youtube on casting, and look also to forums such as resin addict.

Final note: doing this to save money is a losing proposition - as there is quite a bit of 'art' in learning how to make the molds for best results and working with resins (and that does not even count special equipment like pressure pots, vacuum pumps, etc. if you want high quality). There is a very steep learning curve in doing anything of ANY complexity, and with that comes wasting materials which equals cost.

not trying to discourage you from getting into casting - it can be a lot of fun seeing something you made duplicated and then painted up! But just want to set some realistic expectations for someone who thinks casting is a way to cheap (or free) minis.

its not. not even remotely.

thanks for your most valued opinion!! I should have known it expansive.... i also heard a lot about the insanely short shelve life of those chemicals too

I cast quite a lot of my own sculpts.

The mold

Silicone -> it is easy to work with, not that nasty and creates perfect molds.

Greenstuff -> I would only suggest making molds of greenstuff if I was into the business of selling greenstuff and did not like you at all. Greenstuff is harder to work with then silicone and creates the worst molds I have ever seen.


The stuff you put into it

Polyester Resin-> This stuff was invented by the devil don't even think about storing it at home for its foul toxic vapors are usually not contained by the containers at all.

Polyurethane Resin & Pu foam -> Better then PE but I still hate this stuff with a passion. It is still toxic in all sorts of ways, sticky, smelling bad and horrible unforgiving if your made an error in the mixing process.
I will NEVER use this stuff again unless there is lab grade protection in place including a fume hood.

Gypsum->Dirt cheap. easy to work with not suitable for anything outside terrain.
porcelain gypsum -> Slightly better but still not usable for miniatures.

Acrylicone* -> This stuff I like a lot. It is cheaper then PU resin, easy to work with, not sticky of smelly at all, is superior to regular gypsum and It becomes rock hard when you bake it.

* Brand name you could probably find an something similar where you live.

 oldzoggy wrote:
I cast quite a lot of my own sculpts.

The mold

Silicone -> it is easy to work with, not that nasty and creates perfect molds.

Greenstuff -> I would only suggest making molds of greenstuff if I was into the business of selling greenstuff and did not like you at all. Greenstuff is harder to work with then silicone and creates the worst molds I have ever seen.


The stuff you put into it

Polyester Resin-> This stuff was invented by the devil don't even think about storing it at home for its foul toxic vapors are usually not contained by the containers at all.

Polyurethane Resin & Pu foam -> Better then PE but I still hate this stuff with a passion. It is still toxic in all sorts of ways, sticky, smelling bad and horrible unforgiving if your made an error in the mixing process.
I will NEVER use this stuff again unless there is lab grade protection in place including a fume hood.

Gypsum->Dirt cheap. easy to work with not suitable for anything outside terrain.
porcelain gypsum -> Slightly better but still not usable for miniatures.

Acrylicone* -> This stuff I like a lot. It is cheaper then PU resin, easy to work with, not sticky of smelly at all, is superior to regular gypsum and It becomes rock hard when you bake it.

* Brand name you could probably find an something similar where you live.

thanks man!! been experimenting using silicon sealant with corn starch, but the smell is awful....