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I have had a complex template of a tank on my hand that i downloaded on the net, the details are immense, so like the question; how do i transfer the printed template from paper onto plastic card?? i really need every detail onto the plastic card cause the details also include locations to put other stuff on. Here is the template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ht0irj8dtwnx3hq/leman%20russ%20vanquisher.rar?dl=1

many thanks!!

I can't open the link you have posted.

If I was doing it, I would print it out, and then get some tracing paper, and trace the print out onto the tracing paper, then tape that into place on the plastic card, and scribe it with knife. Then you can remove the paper and finish cutting out the parts.

I'm sure there are some other ways to do it, just can't think up anything at the moment.

print one copy of the template on standard paper ..place this standard paper over a piece of either carbon paper if you can still find it ..or a contrasting color transfer paper..which is avail;able from any sewing goods store ..(suggest getting a transfer wheel tool as well..

Once you are done lining everythign up and gluing then the carbon washes off with water..if you need it to last longer than a couple of days on the plasticard then draw over it with pencil..

http://www.amazon.com/Woodcraft-Patterns-Carbon-Transfer-sheets/dp/B002WQR74M/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1445268416&sr=1-6&keywords=transfer+paper+sewing

Or check your store for toys that project an image for kids to trace. Some let you project any images instead of just what they come with. My mom uses one to project pictures onto cakes so she can trace them.

morfydd wrote:
print one copy of the template on standard paper ..place this standard paper over a piece of either carbon paper if you can still find it ..or a contrasting color transfer paper..which is avail;able from any sewing goods store ..(suggest getting a transfer wheel tool as well..

Once you are done lining everythign up and gluing then the carbon washes off with water..if you need it to last longer than a couple of days on the plasticard then draw over it with pencil..

http://www.amazon.com/Woodcraft-Patterns-Carbon-Transfer-sheets/dp/B002WQR74M/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1445268416&sr=1-6&keywords=transfer+paper+sewing

Carbon Copy, what a delightfully retro idea. I wonder how many people remember having to hit the keys extra hard on the typewriter to get a good copy? Ok know what the origins of the “CC” field on their e-mail is? Great application for modeling here though.

Depending on how clean you need the card, you could use a pin to poke little connect-the-dot guides through a template to mark stuff out.

Am I missing a trick if I say that I'd print it onto matt masking sheet and then put it on the plasticard?

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
Am I missing a trick if I say that I'd print it onto matt masking sheet and then put it on the plasticard?

do you have a link to one of those matt masking sheet?? even an image would do. cheers!!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Thank you for all your tricks and suggestions!!! I was thinking using charcoal stick from art store or even pencil to carbonize the paper and trace it on the plastic card. I just was sure if that was a way to go, but now hearing this from you guys, it cleared away the worries.... so thanks guys!!

I found mine on eBay, I just searched for "model masking sheet" and then because the backing sheet was paper, I could run it through my printer.

Or just use a low adhesion mounting spray, like the UHU one and just glue it to the plastic. It's IMPERATIVE that you use one that can be easily removed afterwards, otherwise, it'll be a pain to remove the paper. And also, use a strong paper to help avoid tears. If it gets glued, just use some nail polish remover to release the paper, like you would do to remove a sticker from a glass jar

jdteixeira wrote:
Or just use a low adhesion mounting spray, like the UHU one and just glue it to the plastic. It's IMPERATIVE that you use one that can be easily removed afterwards, otherwise, it'll be a pain to remove the paper. And also, use a strong paper to help avoid tears. If it gets glued, just use some nail polish remover to release the paper, like you would do to remove a sticker from a glass jar

This is good idea, however there are places in my templates are used for locating where the next part would be glue on, like an extra piece of armor, or large rivet, if I glue those on first, i would not be able to remove them afterwards, then again of course, if i do it the other way round, I would lose the coordinate, I guess in the end I should mix both methods to save time.

keithktam wrote:
I have had a complex template of a tank on my hand that i downloaded on the net, the details are immense, so like the question; how do i transfer the printed template from paper onto plastic card?? i really need every detail onto the plastic card cause the details also include locations to put other stuff on. Here is the template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ht0irj8dtwnx3hq/leman%20russ%20vanquisher.rar?dl=1

many thanks!!

I've done what you're doing quite few times. Mostly with my own patterns. I've found that the best thing is to glue the pattern to the plastic. In the past I've mixed rubbing alcohol with white glue. and spread a thin layer on the plasticard. This works best for large sheets. You can also use paste glue sticks, made for gluing paper to poster boards. Either glue washes off with water.

I then inscribe every line with a small metal ruler and Exacto knife. Make a deep cuts for edges, and shallow cuts for fold lines. For marking locations I make a small X in each location, or drill a small divot using a 1mm drill bit. I use 1mm "fingernail decorations" for rivets, and small washers for some detail.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HALF-PEARLS-ROUND-FLAT-BACK-ACRYLIC-GEMS-NAIL-ART-CRAFTS-3D-DECORATION-NEW-/330856747955?var=540133062635&hash=item4d089953b3:m:mFSD5XAavLQtMrNqpLtHuWg

After you are done inscribing, remove the patterns by soaking in water. Then rub some pencil lead dust on your finger and rub them on the inscribed plasticard. This will reveal all the cuts and marks.

Keep in mind that the pattern you posted is a papercraft. Designed for paper or thin card stock. Try and use 1mm or thinner plasticard for best fit, and leave off most of the gluing tabs. For something like a Leman Russ, glue in some plastic strips or triangles of scrap to the inside to reinforce the seems.

Have fun.

 impact1 wrote:

keithktam wrote:
I have had a complex template of a tank on my hand that i downloaded on the net, the details are immense, so like the question; how do i transfer the printed template from paper onto plastic card?? i really need every detail onto the plastic card cause the details also include locations to put other stuff on. Here is the template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ht0irj8dtwnx3hq/leman%20russ%20vanquisher.rar?dl=1

many thanks!!

I've done what you're doing quite few times. Mostly with my own patterns. I've found that the best thing is to glue the pattern to the plastic. In the past I've mixed rubbing alcohol with white glue. and spread a thin layer on the plasticard. This works best for large sheets. You can also use paste glue sticks, made for gluing paper to poster boards. Either glue washes off with water.

I then inscribe every line with a small metal ruler and Exacto knife. Make a deep cuts for edges, and shallow cuts for fold lines. For marking locations I make a small X in each location, or drill a small divot using a 1mm drill bit. I use 1mm "fingernail decorations" for rivets, and small washers for some detail.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HALF-PEARLS-ROUND-FLAT-BACK-ACRYLIC-GEMS-NAIL-ART-CRAFTS-3D-DECORATION-NEW-/330856747955?var=540133062635&hash=item4d089953b3:m:mFSD5XAavLQtMrNqpLtHuWg

After you are done inscribing, remove the patterns by soaking in water. Then rub some pencil lead dust on your finger and rub them on the inscribed plasticard. This will reveal all the cuts and marks.

Keep in mind that the pattern you posted is a papercraft. Designed for paper or thin card stock. Try and use 1mm or thinner plasticard for best fit, and leave off most of the gluing tabs. For something like a Leman Russ, glue in some plastic strips or triangles of scrap to the inside to reinforce the seems.

Have fun.

sorry for the overdue big thank you!!!

I just use a gluestick on paper, along with Impact's ruler, knife and varying cuts tricks. Once you cut/snapped/drilled everything you just lift the edge up with a knife and peel it off, any residue comes off with a wet cloth.

Just my experience.

Also, as Impact says, papercraft models are tricky with plasticard. You don't need the tabs, and you need to be consistent with which edge to edge you glue. You'll end up with a model with slightly off proportions, and you'll need to rejig on the fly to get proper alignments and coverage. It feels good when you've finished though.

 Farseer Anath'lan wrote:
I just use a gluestick on paper, along with Impact's ruler, knife and varying cuts tricks. Once you cut/snapped/drilled everything you just lift the edge up with a knife and peel it off, any residue comes off with a wet cloth.

Just my experience.

Also, as Impact says, papercraft models are tricky with plasticard. You don't need the tabs, and you need to be consistent with which edge to edge you glue. You'll end up with a model with slightly off proportions, and you'll need to rejig on the fly to get proper alignments and coverage. It feels good when you've finished though.

What i realize is that the "template" for papercraft, unless is a simple template, are not very friendly with construction, they have way to many details on it that you just don't know which line to include!! I think i will stick with paper for now and UHU the template onto a card stock, then may be cast it afterwards?? I have some crazy plan on cheap casting, not sure if it would work so I can brag about it now. Will see.

Thanks!!