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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Now I know I've asked about three questions on this fourm and I thank you lot for your answers! learned quite a lot, all that matters is the weapon people say. That and not giving a model a advantage as well, say adjusting it's height or something.

I just watched a game though, (Link: https://youtu.be/Qlqr9X3rvgo?t=4m39s) This guy took a Riptide's burst cannon onto a Broadside and how these two are chumming around they're just friends so it's okay for those two to play it that way. But in truth is it alright? I will also note later in the video he used the body of drones for the head of a Riptide, love that touch.

Now, kit bashing is what comes down to the full question here. Would you be able to get away with using a Firewarrior's torso with a Pathfinder? Or did what that guy did with the body of the drone? Because if so, I could try and use my spare parts to kit mash my Tau to make something more different, presumably as long as it doesn't change the weapon or class type. (Via: Attaching arms and legs to a Broadside and try to say it's a Broadside.) In say a hobby store or tournament?



Reason I bring this up is 'Weapons locations matter' such as with vehicles and the monster units(Or I think about that) And one day when I get some extra free cash laying about was thinking of kit mashing some units around big time.
   
Made in gb
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





UK

Kit-bashing is the bread and butter of modelling 40k, especially for Space Marines but really any army with plastic troops (ie. all of them)! There are a few basic 'rules', but in general, stick to these and your opponents will be more than happy:

- Keep the armament obvious- If you're modelling a Broadside with a Rail Rifle, but somehow altering the pose or armour style or whatever, make sure the gun is still clearly what it's meant to be. This doesn't necessarily mean you have you use that exact part, but it has to be close enough that you'll need to explain it once at most.

- Keep the size and general shape the same- especially important for vehicles, but really goes for anything- don't go making a Fire Warrior somehow the size of a Gretchin, or a Crisis Suit the size of a Riptide.

- If there's ever any potential confusion, be very clear to your opponent at the start of the game about what each model is representing. For example, I've seen IG armies where the 'vox troopers' are instead carrying signalling flags- so long as this is made clear to the opponent and is consistent, it shouldn't be an issue.

- The Rule of Cool- the cooler something looks, the more likely people are to go with it. Obviously this one is subjective, but so long as you put in some effort rather than dropping a blob of superglue in your bitz box and seeing what comes out, you should be good to go!

So yeah, go for it! Make the minis truly your own, truly unique, and be sure to post some pics when you're done!

 
   
Made in za
Dakka Veteran




I think another point to remember is where are you gonna be playing. I started playing at a small game shop and was assured by one of the guys that are in charge of the club that the people there are very relaxed.
And they were, I have a couple of scratchbuild/kitbashed models that need to finish and see what they think.
I know I will never play official gw tournaments so to me the cool factor is my main inspiration, that and the fact that I can get a couple of minis extra with the bitz I have leftover. Good luck!!and keep us posted on how you doing.
   
Made in ca
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!






KINGPIN54 wrote:
I think another point to remember is where are you gonna be playing. I started playing at a small game shop and was assured by one of the guys that are in charge of the club that the people there are very relaxed.
And they were, I have a couple of scratchbuild/kitbashed models that need to finish and see what they think.
I know I will never play official gw tournaments so to me the cool factor is my main inspiration, that and the fact that I can get a couple of minis extra with the bitz I have leftover. Good luck!!and keep us posted on how you doing.


I second this thought - my local game store's previous management was very set on everything being a GW showed, don't try to play with heavily converted models at places like that...

The new owner has two rules - be nice and get your opponents approval for your list/models before the game - I have played with some very heavily converted models there and had a blast.

{url=http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/675142.page]{img]http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2012/11/8/429237_md-.jpg{/img]{/url]  
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Middlesbrough

I love kitbashing and making random stuff. I think Paradigm nailed it on the head with his post.

I think main rule is keeping the size the same. Definitely use the same size base, and make the model as near enough the same height and bulk as original. People only really have a gripe about homemade stuff if it's been modelled to gain a gaming advantage. E.g. stooped down so it can hide behind buildings, a lot thinner than original etc.

GW stores can be arses about these kind of models, as they obviously want you to have bought something off their shelves. Local gaming groups shouldn't have too much issue though



6000pts 
   
Made in us
Shas'ui with Bonding Knife






Kitbashing at my local shop has brought about some of the most interesting and fun looking models there. Love the idea of Kitbashing! The manager of my local GW store doesn't mind at all as long as it's GW/FW base models/bits. I've seen some seriously kitbashed models used in friendly games at my local GW store. The manager doesn't mind at all. YMMV when it comes to GW stores though.

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*** I only play for fun. I do not play competitively. *** 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

The first guy nailed it pretty well.

I have got a lot of compliments on my mods, but only a very few complaints. (Me: "Yes it does not look exactly like the official model, I did that on purpose. If I wanted to to look exactly like the official model I would have just bought one.")
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Oooh, I see! That makes things nice. I haven't tempted kit bashing yet. I've just gone with the basic instruction booklet told me to do at first to get the hang of things.

And so that's okay to give a Broadside a Riptide's burst cannnon then? O.o CAuse I will admit. It did look badass with that. And I have a spare burstcannon cannon cause I gave mine a Ion cannon instead.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






TheTaumight wrote:
Oooh, I see! That makes things nice. I haven't tempted kit bashing yet. I've just gone with the basic instruction booklet told me to do at first to get the hang of things.

And so that's okay to give a Broadside a Riptide's burst cannnon then? O.o CAuse I will admit. It did look badass with that. And I have a spare burstcannon cannon cause I gave mine a Ion cannon instead.

Well, I'm not sure if people would find that acceptable, as Broadsides can't take the giant burst cannon riptides can. Were you planning on running it as a riptide or broadside?

You could use the burst canon as a count-as TL rail rifle, but you'd probably only get people to agree to that as long as you never field any riptides with burst cannons to avoid confusion.

Now if you wanted to play it as a riptide you could take a riptide-sized base, stick your broadside up on a big rock so he was similar in height to a riptide, give him the burst cannon and enough other bits to distinguish him from a regular broadside.

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Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

I would say that for ease of play assembly "should" be WYSIWYG meaning it should look like what it is supposed to be.

It would be even more important for the weapons on the model like determining a flamer vs. a melta-gun.

"Rule of Cool" is a consideration: If it looks good and you got some paint on the model, not many could bring themselves to complain.

As long as the model looks like it has steered clear of "modeling for advantage" that would be the last of complaints.

Sticking to GW parts are only a consideration if you plan on playing in GW shops: they have policies against other bits but your local FLGS usually does not make a fuss.

I am personally finding the "knock-off" parts from other companies great looking and add many options GW does not offer.

Orks tend to be the conversion army of choice: they could make a baby carriage look threatening.

I find I have the problem that I know most bits too well so I would see a Tau disk converted into a shield for a marine and I would think "that does not go there!" but that is more a personal thing than the norm I am sure.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

I posted a thread similar to this one regarding a very specific mini (Azrael), and it was specifically about non-standard basing. I don't mean to hijack the thread or anything (this is a related topic), but is using non-standard bases really bad? If so, I will need to come up with new bases for my current Crisis battlesuits as well as my five painted Flesh Hounds of Khorne (all of the above are on 40mm bases and the current ones are on 50mm). I had been told that in general people don't care about bases that much unless it is obviously done for advantage.

Here's the thread I posted about rebasing Azrael (no one responded ):http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/667873.page

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Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

To be 100% safe you must use the base the model came with.

I cannot reference where this came from but "generally" the same size or bigger base can be used. I keep thinking of a ripper swarm on a dreadnaught base and it all seems to fall apart to me.

Heck, I have the very first obliterators and they came with a 25mm base.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in za
Dakka Veteran




Here is a link that was posted on one of my threads where I had a hard time with biker bases, as some don't even come with bases.http://en-tharses-project.blogspot.ru/2015/07/guide-to-40k-bases.html
Gives a rundown of all the bases.
   
 
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